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Thread: My 88" Series 3

  1. #351
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
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    Hi Lionelgee,

    For preparation I cleaned the worst bolts/etc by dropping them in a container of straight brakeclean, anything with paint on it needs to be media balsted/stripped. Everything else just went in the box, including new bits with the gold coloured plating on them. I specified the "non-gold zinc finish".

    If I were to do it all again I would probably invest in a rock tumbler to clean nuts, bolts and other small parts in a more automatic fashion.

    Cheers,

  2. #352
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    Sep 2012
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    Westlake ,brisbane
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    From what I remember with zinc plating from when we had it done for work , the gold finish lasts longer than the zinc finish , when zinc coated items ar in the weather the gold finish disappears back to the zinc finish than that goes to surface rust . The best thing with zinc coating is that it does not build up so you don't have to clean up the threads to get the nuts on . Unlike galv that have to be heated & wire brushed to clean the excess zinc out of the thread. Bolts that are being galvanized need to have the thread cut deeper with a special die to allow for the zinc coating .

  3. #353
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    The plater told me the gold finish was a bit more durable, but I just don't like the gold bits on the Landy. I know, function over form and all that...

    Cheers,

  4. #354
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    I would have gone for the zinc finish also.

  5. #355
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    Mar 2008
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    Got a few bits and pieces done. Had a bit of a let down with the electroplater last week, the parts didn't stay in the plating drum long enough, so most of it's going to have to go back and get re-done.

    Anyways, the brake pedal assembly went back together:





    I had the linkages of the carby plated. They were already rusting since being soda blasted by the bloke that rebuilt it.





    Then the manifolds and carby were bolted to the engine. (The steel nuts are temporary until the brass ones I've ordered arrive).








    I did a bit more sand blasting and painting. Had a pig of a time with the (enamel) paint, just can't get it to come out of the gun nicely. This lot looked great, till I went back 20 minutes later and saw everything was covered in solvent bubbles Lost my haha at that point and went home.





    Cheers,

  6. #356
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    Mar 2008
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    Bit of a question for the masses out there, what sort of grease would you use for things like the wiper wheel boxes? I'm about to put my ones back together, the go to grease I've been using is the Penrite Molygrease EP 3%. But not sure if thats the right stuff for "greased for life" applications, (i.e items that don't have a way to be regreased).

    Cheers,

  7. #357
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    Mar 2008
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    Nuts. Well, brass ones anyway, have arrived, so the manifolds are all done up. Even got the educate the supercheep autos staff about copper grease, and why you put it on exhaust fixings





    Cheers,

  8. #358
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    Nov 2016
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    looks fantastic Tim, great work,

  9. #359
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    Mar 2008
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    Perth, WA
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    Thanks Tim, it's certainly looking a bit "fresher" than it used to





    I think we also managed to post in each others threads at exactly the same time!

    Cheers,

  10. #360
    Join Date
    May 2016
    Location
    Guanaba, QLD
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    Tim,

    Have you treated the exhaust manifold to any sort of coating or is it raw metal?
    I was thinking of ceramic coating mine but it's hardly an original look.

    Peter.

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