What did you do on your Landy today?

Thanks, that's exactly the arrangement I am planning. As you say, number one priority is to be able to start the car and my Traxide should then shunt the extra power to the second battery no worries.
I just need to sort out drawers for the Defender and then I can mount the second battery permanently.
I have a set of folding 80 watt panels which I use with the camper but I will add an Anderson plug to the second battery in the vehicle so I can also charge it with them. Later, I intend to put a modest sized solar panel on the roof rack and connect it down to the first battery.
With a Matson DC charger in the camper fridge box making 20 amps it will mean I can charge the camper fridge battery either/both with the solar and by plugging in the trailer plug and running the vehicle. Gotta keep the beer cold!

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Originally Posted by p38arover

I use a Traxide SC40 dual battery controller so if the solar charger is connected to the cranking battery, it gets charged first. It's more important to be able to start the car!

However, I've wired the Anderson plug directly to the AGM so I can charge it from the solar independently and without the voltage drop across the dual battery controller and the cabling from the front (cranking) battery to the AGM in the rear loadspace. I'll probably

That's the way I'll be operating over the next week whilst camping.

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Hi, Can anyone tell me if these are LR or aftermarket snorkels. Two snorkels coming out of the air vents on the bonet/guard area and the snorkels are about 250mm higher than the bonnet?? I was told they were factory fitted by LR in South Africa??? I thought the whole reason for a snorkel was to get height away from rising water. Please help me I obviously don't know much.

I put my first dent in the Defender when I misjudged a sharp reverse turn and caught the end of a branch on the passenger side roof line. Caused a dent, scratched the gutter and dislodged one of the Rhino rack feet. Could have been worse. The Navigator hasn't even noticed the dent above her door, so my pride remains undented even if the car isn't. I might move the Rhino rack to hide the dent...

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Amazingly, the $70 Aldi Maginon wireless reversing camera actually works!

I got the camera mounted to the top of the number plate as recommended. It just attaches with the same screws which hold the number plate.I was a bit sceptical about if it being up on the left of the body would give good rear vision compared with being in the centre, but that turned out not to be a problem as the camera is wide angle.
I tapped into the positive and negative wiring to the reversing light, which took a bit of fiddling in the restricted space. However, I must have been even dodgier than usual with my wiring because now the reversing light isn't working, so I'll have to have another go. Think I'll use a different type of connector.
I ran the wire from the camera, which attaches to the top of the number plate, down behind the number plate and then across and glued it to the inside of the door seal and ran it down and then through a hole in the bumper. Looks surprisingly discreet.
The mirror is a big sucker about twice the size of the standard mirror and just clips on with adjustable clips, so no problem there. As a test I plugged it into the power socket, started her up, whacked it in reverse and it worked!
So now I am left with two jobs:

1. Redo the wiring connection so the reversing light works again.
2. Work out how to hide the power lead to the mirror and hook into power on the dash somewhere.

I have been thinking for a while I might run a main power lead from the battery to the dash so I can put a set of plugs on the dash shelf in front of the passenger, so I might hook the mirror up to that. Or I might just tap into the power to the brake controller.

Still, for $70 and a bit of fiddling this is proving a good exercise, considering my BIL, who is a mechanic, paid $700 to get a reversing camera fitted to his Triton. I look forward to telling him how I saved $630 compared with him!

I have been overseas the last few months. So pulled apart my car before i left to keep it in good condition while i was away. Called a mate a few days ago to start putting it back together for me and he did. Took my batteries home with him and charged them up fully. Only to find when i returned home that they both were dead again.

Compleatly destroyed. We opened them up to have a look at and i have no idea how they lasted this long. So nice welcome home present for me. Just bought a new Exide cranking and a deep cycle battery. Good to see the car starts and runs perfect now

Maybe my fridge will stay cold for longer than an hour when turned off too :)

Pulled the locking mechanism out of the rear door of the disco I just got from Lockee, to see how it works and where this spring is that everyone says always stuffs up (found it), now I know how to fix the one on my DD. :D

Also stripped out the rear seats and most of the trim in the back.

I love pulling things apart :twisted::twisted:

Once the back is done I can see how the dash comes apart and use the binnacle switches to add extra switches to the bush truck. :D

Found 15 cents in the back..........time for a spending spree.:D:D:D:twisted:

Prior to camping last weekend for the first time in ages:
2002 Td5 D2
*replaced rear brake discs and pads
*fitted full-sized aux battery in the cargo space to replace the tiny one that fit under the bonnet
* re-worked the wiring to the rear and the old isolator relay ahead of receiving new Traxide unit which arrived this week
* tried to splice an Ipod input into the CD player line which hasn't worked (yet)


Fridge ran off the battery for 2 full days plus charged various devices and ran lights and still plenty of charge in the aux battery - very happy.


Next priorities:
* get Ipod input working
* Oil pressure and transmission temp inputs to Madman EMS
* Fit extended brake hoses and flush fluid
* Fit extended ABS lines to rear
* replace damaged rear door with shell from the parts place

Trying to diagnose the horrid fuel consumption in my D2a, so pulled out the MAF to have a look.
How blocked would the MAF sensor have to be to cause fuel consumption increases? It was dirty, but there didn't seem to be any blockage. Thinking it may be worth replacing considering the price of one.

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Originally Posted by Disco_Fever

Trying to diagnose the horrid fuel consumption in my D2a, so pulled out the MAF to have a look.
How blocked would the MAF sensor have to be to cause fuel consumption increases? It was dirty, but there didn't seem to be any blockage. Thinking it may be worth replacing considering the price of one.

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You talking about the MAP? Or MAF?

MAF - the one near the air cleaner.
I'm new to all this stuff - first car without a carby...
Now I think about it, the element is probably the most important thing to have clean. Is that right?

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