What did you do on your Landy today?

Printable View

Show 40 post(s) from this thread on one page

2nd March 2016, 12:49 PM
gusthedog

Quote:

Originally Posted by johntins

I should say, except the one in the auto on the TD5. I get the auto guy to do that.

I do the auto myself which is ok so long as you inform your better half who's sitting in the cab not to run over you. :D

For $65 for a full set of td5 filters I change them all every service. Even the centrifugal one. I know it's overkill but as you state it's cheap insurance.

It's surprising how cheap the rover filter sets are. My wife's old Volvo S40 was over $100 for 3 filters (oil, air and fuel) vs $65 for the td5 (2 oil, air and fuel).

Pricey
2nd March 2016, 01:10 PM
DiscoMick

Cost me $96 just for a genuine rear filter for the Defender from a dealer. But I agree they should be changed regularly. Apparently the previous owner didn't get it done.
2nd March 2016, 01:39 PM
gusthedog

Quote:

Originally Posted by DiscoMick

Cost me $96 just for a genuine rear filter for the Defender from a dealer. But I agree they should be changed regularly. Apparently the previous owner didn't get it done.

Wowsers! $96. I generally go aftermarket. You can get a Mahle for like $30 which is a pretty good brand. Unless I'm missing something and the LR ones are gold plated and filter way better :)
2nd March 2016, 01:41 PM
blackapache

5 Attachment(s)

Xmas got out of control.

So I had a few niggling issues that were finally driving me mad enough to fix them. It started out with just a surging issue, I replaced a dodgy fuel pump by cutting the rear access panel (defender TD5 110) and installing one of mulgo's rear plates. Then I pulled the harmonic balancer. It had a slight wobble in it but was minor I thought. When I pulled it off it nearly fell apart in my hands so a word of caution if your harmonic balancer has some play in it, PULL IT AND CHECK! While I was there I did the viscous fan bearing, the idler/tensioner, sourced a bearing for the AC compressor (NOS from the states! - $50) re did the serpentine belt and all the other bearings in the serpentine system.

About this time I noticed my thermostat was flogged out and busted up inside. So that was replaced also.

I managed to de-bugger my ECU wiring which had scotch locks spliced into it for some weirdass diesel tuning chip. I have a stage 3 map from Jose and an Allisport cooler so no need for the generic paperweight, so off that came and all wiring soldered and heat shrunk, result = surging GONE!

I nearly quit there happy with my results but I d had a lot of water pooling for a long time and since my truck came from out west I wanted to keep it "dry" well by defender standards anyways. My chassis still has a nice coat of red dust on the whole thing and not a scrap of even flash rust so I would like to keep it like that as long as possible. Anyways pulled the mats and hello Ive got rot, and 2 nice holes through the floor on both sides.

So I bit the bullet, cut the floor pans at the back and added new metal. cleaned it all up. Then I got stuck into it.

I dismantled the whole interior and dashboard right back to the firewall. Filled and holes that had been leaking, and guernsey out the whole thing. Always funny seeing peoples response to watching you guernsey the interior of your truck.

I soundproofed/waterproofed the floor underside and inside with a bitumen based sealer. I dynamatted the whole floor, from firewall back to the rear door, then used a similar product that is a lighter weight and did the whole roof too. . Then I used a rubber backed HD carpet to lay onto that which is stuck with a carpet glue. I got some 10mm heavy mass vinyl sheet and cut mats for the rear floor section, both front wheel wells, as well as the whole rear from under the rear seats to the back door as well as the seat box tops. Then after that I put my LR rubber mat/transmission tunnel cover back on the front section. Im still in the process of doing a lower door seal upgrade as per the puma but already the car is way quieter. the floors don't get hot and no heat coming out of the seat boxes. Once i put the seals back in Im expecting even more noise suppression. All up I spent about $600 on soundproofing.

Attachment 106420

Attachment 106421

Attachment 106422

I redid the interior of the door cards to seal them up, all to keep the water off the front floor - I don't do any water crossings, all my driving - well 99% is beach driving so being watertight is not a problem in fact as far as the wife and little ones go its a good thing. I rebuilt all my dash - re wired my central locking, ran wires to add a switch to my rear roof lights, rewired the speakers in the rear, added some waterproof covers to the rear seats and started putting it all back together.

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment...1&d=1456889989

Im not going to put the Australian TD5 Sanden Aircon back in - mine worked good - no problems but Im going to go for the overhead unit as this would be nice up here near the border in summer. Also having spent time making the old girl nice and comfortable on the inside I wanna have the aircon option for rainy days demisting and long hot trips for the kids. So if anyone is looking to get a hold of one I'll have one for sale or swap for a engine block or something else of interest.

In the last 6 months Ive had about 300+ hours under the defender and its paying off.

So far now she has:

Allisport intercooler, TD5 Inside remap on NNN ECU, Kaymar rear bar, EGR delete, terrafirma exhaust all the way through no restrictions, 2" lift, 33" KM2, Snorkel, rear roof LED Spots, 3/4 Roof Cage, Custom chequer plate, Maxxi drive HD flanges - track rod - drag link setup, oil fed bearings all round, custom cargo barrier, rear drawer (almost finished) the list goes and on and on

one day it'lll be finished maybe...

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment...1&d=1456889989
2nd March 2016, 02:51 PM
Tins

Quote:

Originally Posted by gusthedog

I do the auto myself which is ok so long as you inform your better half who's sitting in the cab not to run over you. :D

I have done the auto one once, but 'she who must be' refuses to cooperate, and the auto has cost squillions so she prefers me to get it done. She has NO idea how much the R380 cost.:p
2nd March 2016, 02:56 PM
Tins

Quote:

Originally Posted by gusthedog

Wowsers! $96. I generally go aftermarket. You can get a Mahle for like $30 which is a pretty good brand. Unless I'm missing something and the LR ones are gold plated and filter way better :)

Pretty sure there are vendors on here that will sell you a whole filter kit for less than that. However, needs must, and when you're stuck you're stuck. 'S why I have a spare.
2nd March 2016, 03:00 PM
Tins

Quote:

Originally Posted by blackapache

So I had a few niggling issues that were finally driving me mad enough to fix them. It started out with just a surging issue, I replaced a dodgy fuel pump by cutting the rear access panel (defender TD5 110) and installing one of mulgo's rear plates. Then I pulled the harmonic balancer. It had a slight wobble in it but was minor I thought. When I pulled it off it nearly fell apart in my hands so a word of caution if your harmonic balancer has some play in it, PULL IT AND CHECK! While I was there I did the viscous fan bearing, the idler/tensioner, sourced a bearing for the AC compressor (NOS from the states! - $50) re did the serpentine belt and all the other bearings in the serpentine system.

About this time I noticed my thermostat was flogged out and busted up inside. So that was replaced also.

I managed to de-bugger my ECU wiring which had scotch locks spliced into it for some weirdass diesel tuning chip. I have a stage 3 map from Jose and an Allisport cooler so no need for the generic paperweight, so off that came and all wiring soldered and heat shrunk, result = surging GONE!

I nearly quit there happy with my results but I d had a lot of water pooling for a long time and since my truck came from out west I wanted to keep it "dry" well by defender standards anyways. My chassis still has a nice coat of red dust on the whole thing and not a scrap of even flash rust so I would like to keep it like that as long as possible. Anyways pulled the mats and hello Ive got rot, and 2 nice holes through the floor on both sides.

So I bit the bullet, cut the floor pans at the back and added new metal. cleaned it all up. Then I got stuck into it.

I dismantled the whole interior and dashboard right back to the firewall. Filled and holes that had been leaking, and guernsey out the whole thing. Always funny seeing peoples response to watching you guernsey the interior of your truck.

I soundproofed/waterproofed the floor underside and inside with a bitumen based sealer. I dynamatted the whole floor, from firewall back to the rear door, then used a similar product that is a lighter weight and did the whole roof too. . Then I used a rubber backed HD carpet to lay onto that which is stuck with a carpet glue. I got some 10mm heavy mass vinyl sheet and cut mats for the rear floor section, both front wheel wells, as well as the whole rear from under the rear seats to the back door as well as the seat box tops. Then after that I put my LR rubber mat/transmission tunnel cover back on the front section. Im still in the process of doing a lower door seal upgrade as per the puma but already the car is way quieter. the floors don't get hot and no heat coming out of the seat boxes. Once i put the seals back in Im expecting even more noise suppression. All up I spent about $600 on soundproofing.

Attachment 106420

Attachment 106421

Attachment 106422

I redid the interior of the door cards to seal them up, all to keep the water off the front floor - I don't do any water crossings, all my driving - well 99% is beach driving so being watertight is not a problem in fact as far as the wife and little ones go its a good thing. I rebuilt all my dash - re wired my central locking, ran wires to add a switch to my rear roof lights, rewired the speakers in the rear, added some waterproof covers to the rear seats and started putting it all back together.

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment...1&d=1456889989

Im not going to put the Australian TD5 Sanden Aircon back in - mine worked good - no problems but Im going to go for the overhead unit as this would be nice up here near the border in summer. Also having spent time making the old girl nice and comfortable on the inside I wanna have the aircon option for rainy days demisting and long hot trips for the kids. So if anyone is looking to get a hold of one I'll have one for sale or swap for a engine block or something else of interest.

In the last 6 months Ive had about 300+ hours under the defender and its paying off.

So far now she has:

Allisport intercooler, TD5 Inside remap on NNN ECU, Kaymar rear bar, EGR delete, terrafirma exhaust all the way through no restrictions, 2" lift, 33" KM2, Snorkel, rear roof LED Spots, 3/4 Roof Cage, Custom chequer plate, Maxxi drive HD flanges - track rod - drag link setup, oil fed bearings all round, custom cargo barrier, rear drawer (almost finished) the list goes and on and on

one day it'lll be finished maybe...

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment...1&d=1456889989

SHEESH! The title of this thread is what you did TODAY!! That lot would have taken me a season. Good work.
2nd March 2016, 03:38 PM
DiscoMick

Quote:

Originally Posted by gusthedog

Wowsers! $96. I generally go aftermarket. You can get a Mahle for like $30 which is a pretty good brand. Unless I'm missing something and the LR ones are gold plated and filter way better :)

I tried Autobarn but they didnt have it in their catalogue.

Sent from my SM-G900I using AULRO mobile app
2nd March 2016, 03:45 PM
gusthedog

Quote:

Originally Posted by DiscoMick

I tried Autobarn but they didnt have it in their catalogue.

Sent from my SM-G900I using AULRO mobile app

Autobarn only stock stuff for crap cars :D. Never go to dealers either. They ream you for spares. Surely MR Automotive just north of brissie has them in stock?
2nd March 2016, 04:08 PM
DiscoMick

Quote:

Originally Posted by blackapache

So I had a few niggling issues that were finally driving me mad enough to fix them. It started out with just a surging issue, I replaced a dodgy fuel pump by cutting the rear access panel (defender TD5 110) and installing one of mulgo's rear plates. Then I pulled the harmonic balancer. It had a slight wobble in it but was minor I thought. When I pulled it off it nearly fell apart in my hands so a word of caution if your harmonic balancer has some play in it, PULL IT AND CHECK! While I was there I did the viscous fan bearing, the idler/tensioner, sourced a bearing for the AC compressor (NOS from the states! - $50) re did the serpentine belt and all the other bearings in the serpentine system.

About this time I noticed my thermostat was flogged out and busted up inside. So that was replaced also.

I managed to de-bugger my ECU wiring which had scotch locks spliced into it for some weirdass diesel tuning chip. I have a stage 3 map from Jose and an Allisport cooler so no need for the generic paperweight, so off that came and all wiring soldered and heat shrunk, result = surging GONE!

I nearly quit there happy with my results but I d had a lot of water pooling for a long time and since my truck came from out west I wanted to keep it "dry" well by defender standards anyways. My chassis still has a nice coat of red dust on the whole thing and not a scrap of even flash rust so I would like to keep it like that as long as possible. Anyways pulled the mats and hello Ive got rot, and 2 nice holes through the floor on both sides.

So I bit the bullet, cut the floor pans at the back and added new metal. cleaned it all up. Then I got stuck into it.

I dismantled the whole interior and dashboard right back to the firewall. Filled and holes that had been leaking, and guernsey out the whole thing. Always funny seeing peoples response to watching you guernsey the interior of your truck.

I soundproofed/waterproofed the floor underside and inside with a bitumen based sealer. I dynamatted the whole floor, from firewall back to the rear door, then used a similar product that is a lighter weight and did the whole roof too. . Then I used a rubber backed HD carpet to lay onto that which is stuck with a carpet glue. I got some 10mm heavy mass vinyl sheet and cut mats for the rear floor section, both front wheel wells, as well as the whole rear from under the rear seats to the back door as well as the seat box tops. Then after that I put my LR rubber mat/transmission tunnel cover back on the front section. Im still in the process of doing a lower door seal upgrade as per the puma but already the car is way quieter. the floors don't get hot and no heat coming out of the seat boxes. Once i put the seals back in Im expecting even more noise suppression. All up I spent about $600 on soundproofing.

Attachment 106420

Attachment 106421

Attachment 106422

I redid the interior of the door cards to seal them up, all to keep the water off the front floor - I don't do any water crossings, all my driving - well 99% is beach driving so being watertight is not a problem in fact as far as the wife and little ones go its a good thing. I rebuilt all my dash - re wired my central locking, ran wires to add a switch to my rear roof lights, rewired the speakers in the rear, added some waterproof covers to the rear seats and started putting it all back together.

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment...1&d=1456889989

Im not going to put the Australian TD5 Sanden Aircon back in - mine worked good - no problems but Im going to go for the overhead unit as this would be nice up here near the border in summer. Also having spent time making the old girl nice and comfortable on the inside I wanna have the aircon option for rainy days demisting and long hot trips for the kids. So if anyone is looking to get a hold of one I'll have one for sale or swap for a engine block or something else of interest.

In the last 6 months Ive had about 300+ hours under the defender and its paying off.

So far now she has:

Allisport intercooler, TD5 Inside remap on NNN ECU, Kaymar rear bar, EGR delete, terrafirma exhaust all the way through no restrictions, 2" lift, 33" KM2, Snorkel, rear roof LED Spots, 3/4 Roof Cage, Custom chequer plate, Maxxi drive HD flanges - track rod - drag link setup, oil fed bearings all round, custom cargo barrier, rear drawer (almost finished) the list goes and on and on

one day it'lll be finished maybe...

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment...1&d=1456889989

That's huge. Great effort.

Sent from my SM-G900I using AULRO mobile app

Show 40 post(s) from this thread on one page