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Thread: Brake issue has me stumped

  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jim621 View Post
    Hi,

    The brakes on my Disco 1 (nonABS) has me pulling my hair out, i'm not sure what to try next but i think it may be the pressure reducing valve.

    Originally the brakes weren't too bad, it had good pedal feel but wouldnt lock up the brakes, or even squirm under hard braking so i decided to give the brakes an upgrade.
    There were no leaks, pedal was solid with the engine off, the brake booster held vacuum and had enough stored vacuum for two pushes on the brake pedal when you turned off the engine.


    I did several brake fluid flushes to find small bits of rubber in the fluid (brake hoses failing), brakes were no better after the flush.

    Installed braided hoses and new front Bendix pads then bled the brakes and bled the brakes and bled the brakes again...
    I bed in the new pads by slowing down from 50kph to 10kph multiple times, and then bled the brakes again cause i wasnt impressed with the brakes. Basically it hadnt improved after these changes.

    I had the car put on a fancy electronic gizmo at the workshop that measures your brake performance and it passed with 70% front/30% rear and minimal difference left to right.


    The suspect part at the monent is the pressure reducing valve.
    Can this fail and cause reduced pressure to all the brake calipers?


    Thanks, Steve
    A couple of points,Bendix no longer recommend the multiple stop from speed method to bed in their brake pads,all this does ids overheat the pads and can inhibit their braking effect.
    After fitting new brake pads,it is normal for the brakes to not "feel"firm or solid like they may have previously.The feel usually returns,but it does take time.Unless the rotors were machined or replaced,the time taken to fully bed in,will be governed by how far the new pads have to wear to conform to the shape of the rotors.
    Looking at the result of the brake test,it would seem that the proportioning valve was doing its job.
    So is the problem now about brake pedal feel,or about the brake performance only.
    As Justin mentioned,loose wheel bearings can have a great effect on brake feel,due to "knock back" .This can also be caused by ill fitted or slightly warped rotors.
    Another thing that can effect brake performance is the caliper seals.If the fluid has become contaminated,the seals can excessively drag on the pistons,not only making them slow to return,but slow to activate as well.
    The other obvious problem would be master cylinder operation.
    Also if the booster has been removed at any time in the vehicles life,is the stroke from the pedal to the booster correct,as this will effect the operation of the master cylinder.
    The fact that you have fitted braided lines makes it more difficult to check if any fault is in the front or the rear,as normally you could clamp either front or rear and check the feel and operation.
    If you removed the tear calipers and fit something solid between the piston and the caliper body,to stop the piston from moving,and then tie the caliper out of the way,and then carefully drive the vehicle in a controlled area,and NOT a public street,you will be able to see if the brake feel has changed.
    You also haven't said if the vehicle has standard sized wheels or is raised,as these things will also effect brake feel and performance.

    Wayne
    Wayne
    ​VK2VRC
    "LandRover" What the Japanese aspire to be
    Taking the road less travelled
    '01 130 dualcab HCPU locked and loaded
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  2. #12
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    Hi All,

    Another thing i forgot to mention was the noise or clunk from the pressure reducing valve (PRV). When you are stationary with the engine off and press the brake pedal quite hard the PRV emits a clunk - it sounds like the plunger is hitting one end of its stroke.
    Is this normal?


    Basically the car feels like it doesnt want to stop in that last 10 meters.
    It feels kinda like when you overheat your brakes and they just dont stop like they should.

    In response to some of the questions in no particular order:

    I did not skim the discs when i fitted the new bendix 4wd pads. Perhaps i should have - ill put it on the list of things to try.

    Yes the bendix pads are the 4wd ones in the red box.

    The new pads had a 'titanium strip' that claimed you didnt need to bed-in the pads, i'm not sure it helped that i did try to bed them in. ill try deglazing the pads with a file when i skim the rotors.

    Tyres are not standard size anymore - i have 245/75/16's. another reason to try and improved the stock braking system.


    Wheel bearings were adjusted 6 months ago, but ill check again.


    The main thing that has me stumped is the electronic brake checking gizmo says my brakes have good front to rear balance - So why would skimming my front rotors, or changing front pads improve the overall braking performance?

    thanks, Steve

  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jim621 View Post
    Hi All,

    Another thing i forgot to mention was the noise or clunk from the pressure reducing valve (PRV). When you are stationary with the engine off and press the brake pedal quite hard the PRV emits a clunk - it sounds like the plunger is hitting one end of its stroke.
    Is this normal?


    Basically the car feels like it doesnt want to stop in that last 10 meters.
    It feels kinda like when you overheat your brakes and they just dont stop like they should.

    In response to some of the questions in no particular order:

    I did not skim the discs when i fitted the new bendix 4wd pads. Perhaps i should have - ill put it on the list of things to try.

    Yes the bendix pads are the 4wd ones in the red box.

    The new pads had a 'titanium strip' that claimed you didnt need to bed-in the pads, i'm not sure it helped that i did try to bed them in. ill try deglazing the pads with a file when i skim the rotors.

    Tyres are not standard size anymore - i have 245/75/16's. another reason to try and improved the stock braking system.


    Wheel bearings were adjusted 6 months ago, but ill check again.


    The main thing that has me stumped is the electronic brake checking gizmo says my brakes have good front to rear balance - So why would skimming my front rotors, or changing front pads improve the overall braking performance?

    thanks, Steve
    You don't state what year model Disco 1 you have, but some Disco 1 front brake calipers have "3" bleed nipples, 2 that you can see from the inside (under car) and 1 on the outside that you can't see unless you have the wheel off.
    Now if your calipers have the 3 bleed nipples and you haven't bled the outside nipple you will have the problems you have mentioned. The problem is that if you don't bleed these 3 nipple calipers in correct order you will have crap brakes, (see Land Rover Workshop Manual). I had the same problems you have and worse, I would lose all braking after prolonged downhill travel, the crap fluid in the section of the calipers that hadn't been bled would boil and leave no brakes until the boiled fluid cooled. Not saying that this is your problem, it was mine and bleeding correctly fixed the problem, BTW my 94 Disco has 2 bleed nipple calipers the 93 had 3, check yours, Regards Frank.

  4. #14
    Tombie Guest
    The titanium stripe pads still need a fresh surface to bite onto.
    If your
    Rotors are worn at angle, polished or glazed then whilst balance may be correct, the pad bite may be poor.

    And bleeding as above is also important.

  5. #15
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    the bendix pads are your problem pitch them to the ****house if you want it to stop fit lucas/trw pads if the rotors are anything like most discos have them machined or replaced if there not flat it does not matter what you fit it wont stop .

  6. #16
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    I have a similar issue.

    Driving around town you don't realise the brakes are not 100%. Didn't know until I was towing the camper recently and the trailer plug inched its way out so no electric brakes. Went to stop to turn off the highway and missed the turn! Admittedly I tried to brake hard as I didn't see it to the last minute but it was a surprise all the same. I didn't always have brakes on the trailer and only put them on for hilly dirt roads.

    Haven't tried it in the dirt but can't lock up the wheels on the bitumen without the trailer on either.

    Mine is a MY95 V8 with SS braided brake lines and 245/75 16 Maxxis Bighorns on factory steel rims. Used to have standard tyres on factory mags so I guess braking was better with those.
    Raised about 50mm. Never touched the rear proportioning valve if it has one.
    Non ABS with two front flexible brake lines and one rear (3 in total for the car).

    I bled the hoses but only one nipple per brake so will look for more on the front. RAVE doesn't mention multiple nipples.
    Bleeding the brakes I think improved it but I may be just getting used to the idea.

    Front pads are Bendix 4wd and rears OEM. Both have plenty of life but are about 3 years oldish.

    A kit went through the master cylinder about 4 years ago when the cylinder holding rubbers leaked.

    There is no vibration in the brake pedal.
    No squeal.
    Front discs are shinier than the rear discs.
    No movement in the wheel bearings.

    No idea when the braking started to deteriorate like this.

    I'll chase up some of the ideas from earlier posts too.

  7. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tank View Post
    BTW my 94 Disco has 2 bleed nipple calipers the 93 had 3, check yours, Regards Frank.
    Hi Tank.

    Before I get in trouble for working on my LR while the in laws are here and being anti social etc etc, Where are the nipples on your 94 front calipers?
    I bled the upper nipple that is located between the two bolt heads that is a real ***** to get at.
    It is shown on RAVE under 'Brakes-Repair-Front brake calipers' on the Disco1 update model CD.

    Thanks

  8. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Utemad View Post
    Hi Tank.

    Before I get in trouble for working on my LR while the in laws are here and being anti social etc etc, Where are the nipples on your 94 front calipers?
    I bled the upper nipple that is located between the two bolt heads that is a real ***** to get at.
    It is shown on RAVE under 'Brakes-Repair-Front brake calipers' on the Disco1 update model CD.

    Thanks
    Sorry for taking so long to answer, I pulled my wheels off today and guess what, there is only one bleed nipple that I can see, I wrongly assumed as there were 3 nipples on the 93 that the 94 had 2, I'll have the calipers off tomorrow and if I find that elusive (supposedly) 2nd nipple I'll let you know, Regards Frank.

  9. #19
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    Has anyone suggested the brake booster? My Defender had similar symptoms. Changed front pads to bendix 4wd, bled, no change. Discovered the booster leaking vacuum through a hair line crack near where the master cylinder bolts up. For a temporary fix I covered the crack with blu max sealant and brake performance is back to normal.

  10. #20
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    Thanks Tank. I didn't think there was more than one.

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