Thread: Brake issue has me stumped

I haven't run the bendix pads, but putting genuine pads on my D1 made an awesome difference to braking. Dramatically improved over the old ones which were pretty worn and of unknown origin/brand.

Dont think any reducing valve affects the front brakes. Just wouldn't make sense to generate pressure then reduce it.

I'd be trying some genuine pads, or ones that others have definitely found to be good.

Steve

my disco 1 only skids wheels on wet roads or mud.
when i got it the pedal was heavy and when standing on the brakes it would unevenly grab.scarey.i swaped rangerover mags with 245/70 16 with worn seasoned tyres and it stops in staight line with front axle skid.

I assuming this is what your asking.

modern pads need good disc,not just bedding in to an old disc.
common for euro/jap cars not to like disc skim.

with the new toyota cab chasis fire vehicles we having trouble getting the rear brakes to work.doing a rego test,it feels like it gets faster under brakes.the pads must be too hard to stop black dust on the white mags and glaze after a few 1000Km.
we wound up the load limiter to get more pressure to the rear and sloted the pads.last 12months.

if the rear wasnt working the front will lock easily.
if the rear springs/shocks are weak the front will skid.
if the front shocks/springs are weak the the ront skids.

2 spit system.one operates half the front pads.the other operates the other half and the rear.

I also have a 1997 non abs Disco and am having the same issue.
My mechanic has suggested that I fit the Bendix 4WD pads, they are the ones in the red box. He tells me they are substantially softer.
Will have to wait till the weekend after next to fit but Wollongong give you an update.

Originally Posted by Davehoos

my disco 1 only skids wheels on wet roads or mud.
when i got it the pedal was heavy and when standing on the brakes it would unevenly grab.scarey.i swaped rangerover mags with 245/70 16 with worn seasoned tyres and it stops in staight line with front axle skid.

I assuming this is what your asking.

modern pads need good disc,not just bedding in to an old disc.
common for euro/jap cars not to like disc skim.

with the new toyota cab chasis fire vehicles we having trouble getting the rear brakes to work.doing a rego test,it feels like it gets faster under brakes.the pads must be too hard to stop black dust on the white mags and glaze after a few 1000Km.
we wound up the load limiter to get more pressure to the rear and sloted the pads.last 12months.

if the rear wasnt working the front will lock easily.
if the rear springs/shocks are weak the front will skid.
if the front shocks/springs are weak the the ront skids.

2 spit system.one operates half the front pads.the other operates the other half and the rear.

how does a car know if the disks are skimmed or not?

I dont think your issue is the Bendix pads. I have run both standard and 4wd variants on several vehicles including RRC, Disco 1 Tdi300 and Defender TD5.
Currently I have Mintex on mine but wont get them again as they squeal quite loudly.
I would be looking at the disc rotors as well, because if they are not matched or worn different this can cause issues.

most new disc are milled and not turned in a lath.the cutting grain swirls around.so they have a different finish.the finish can create noise-vibrations that stop the pads bedding in.

the turners here may fill you in.
also when you machine the disc the top layer of metal can work as a lubricant.

an old used disc that are not worn out and usable may have hot spots.heat changes the grain of the disc and the spot strength.you cant change this by machining.also cracks.you can only get rid of high spots or fix out of round.

if its been very hot or polished [glazed] the new pads wont bed in for some time--untill they are well worn in.some disc look as if they are chromed.

over the years ive fitted lots of well used rusty discs.the rust works as a lubricant so you got to be easy untill it cleans up.im told this can help the life of the old disc

the magna cost $12 a disc,the falcon cost $100 for premium pads and stock disc.today you wouldnt bother with seconds.

brake reps are flogging a new stealth pad.

work has tryed these in the new hilux and a hzj75 landcruiser-we throw in the pad with the old disc and the drivers bed these in over a few days.

the suface is cut a strange angles to reduce brake squeal and it has a stip diag across the middle of a different compound.

many years ago i had crap brakes on a XD falcon, they worked on all four wheels alright but the pedal was down near the floor.
i went through that system many times and also flushed it many times but i didn't change the master cylinder as i had out a "kit" in it from the start.
from info i gathered the proportioning valve wasn't a good fit from the kit and would jam in the cylinder, i never got around to fixing it as i sold the car.
in my Morris Nomad the brakes are rock hard and i found out that the only thing i hadn't replaced in all the braking system was the proportioning valve in the rear, it is jammed after sitting for 22 years idle, parts are rare so i have to use the hand brake with the brake pedal if i go out