Thread: Salisbury diff housing failures

All the best for the move Damien. Hope you're not moving to a townhouse or you're going to have to have one serious clearing sale !!!

Steve

Originally Posted by steveG

All the best for the move Damien. Hope you're not moving to a townhouse or you're going to have to have one serious clearing sale !!!

Steve

Steve it's basically a town house, tiny house, tiny property. I am freaking out actually.

Soo have just run the vernier around in the diff end of the axle tube on a housing i have, measurements between 67.22mm and 67.66mm. Making the 66.44mm hollow bore look more attractive and much easier now. (Short timeline that i have)
Would be quite the wall thickness though! Approximately 16mm!!!

Just been reading through this whole thread

As some of you may know I actually managed to snap 2 Salisburys on the Gibb mid last year. Both on the long side, both on heavy corrugations, both just after a river crossing and both without hitting a large pothole/bulldust hole or washout. And lastly neither showing any sign of leaks or cracks, I had visibly checked about 20km prior.



And yes the Landrover was just overweight, approx 3600kg.

Lesson learnt, moving on.



I have found myself a 130 8mm wall housing and intend on bracing it when I get home (in Antarctica at the moment). The plan is the create a similar brace to the one I made up for my current diff, as well as the internal pipe idea. Additionally I have been thinking of getting a piece of steel laser cut to the same shape as the rear cover with two tabs out each side that could then be bolted via a u-bolt setup to each axle tube. If you look at the above photo it may give you an idea of where I'm going with this. The rear cover could then be bolted on over the top with slightly longer bolts with the additional bonus of a greater oil capacity. The brace plate could also be dowelled to the cast housing allowing even more rigidity.

The only issue being the anti rollbar mounts, but they could be cut off the tube and welded on to the brace.

Please note the above brace was made up to a time constraint as I needed to get from Broome back to Tassie in a short time frame. Next time it will be made a lot better without square edges and corners (near the breather)

Be interested to hear peoples thoughts on the idea

You won't want to hear my thoughts Jock.Look at the LC diff that didn't break even though it did the road 10 times ,or the rubbish P38 diff under my TDCi that just did 11,000km's in 4 weeks,many of them on the Trans Access Line/Dingo fence that had me averaging just 9km's an hour it was so rocky..A clue,they both have one piece housings. Pat

Originally Posted by PAT303

You won't want to hear my thoughts Jock.Look at the LC diff that didn't break even though it did the road 10 times ,or the rubbish P38 diff under my TDCi that just did 11,000km's in 4 weeks,many of them on the Trans Access Line/Dingo fence that had me averaging just 9km's an hour it was so rocky..A clue,they both have one piece housings. Pat

The cruiser didn't break but it was common practice to weld up the cracks in the housing just behind the centre

Will be interesting to see your diff housing when it's the same age as the first Salisbury I broke, ie. 400,000km + and 21 years old

I hear you on the Banjo style housing, they are without a doubt a much better idea; but I've already invested the money in the Salisbury (True Trac centre and Aschroft half shafts/flanges) and don't intend on putting a small diff centre behind my Isuzu. Behind a 2.2 no worries, not behind a 3.9 turbo intercooled

Originally Posted by PAT303

You won't want to hear my thoughts Jock.Look at the LC diff that didn't break even though it did the road 10 times ,or the rubbish P38 diff under my TDCi that just did 11,000km's in 4 weeks,many of them on the Trans Access Line/Dingo fence that had me averaging just 9km's an hour it was so rocky..A clue,they both have one piece housings. Pat

The Telstra L/C's were notorious for cracking front diff housings in the NT, and how heavily braced and trussed are the ex-Telstra P38/Wolf Defender housings Pat ?
I don't want to bring up the 9" under my old Effie cracking too....

Sorry mate, couldn't resist.

I think we'll forever be on opposite sides of the Rover/Sals debate.

Originally Posted by Jock The Rock

Just been reading through this whole thread

As some of you may know I actually managed to snap 2 Salisburys on the Gibb mid last year. Both on the long side, both on heavy corrugations, both just after a river crossing and both without hitting a large pothole/bulldust hole or washout. And lastly neither showing any sign of leaks or cracks, I had visibly checked about 20km prior.



And yes the Landrover was just overweight, approx 3600kg.

Lesson learnt, moving on.



I have found myself a 130 8mm wall housing and intend on bracing it when I get home (in Antarctica at the moment). The plan is the create a similar brace to the one I made up for my current diff, as well as the internal pipe idea. Additionally I have been thinking of getting a piece of steel laser cut to the same shape as the rear cover with two tabs out each side that could then be bolted via a u-bolt setup to each axle tube. If you look at the above photo it may give you an idea of where I'm going with this. The rear cover could then be bolted on over the top with slightly longer bolts with the additional bonus of a greater oil capacity. The brace plate could also be dowelled to the cast housing allowing even more rigidity.

The only issue being the anti rollbar mounts, but they could be cut off the tube and welded on to the brace.

Please note the above brace was made up to a time constraint as I needed to get from Broome back to Tassie in a short time frame. Next time it will be made a lot better without square edges and corners (near the breather)

Be interested to hear peoples thoughts on the idea

Have you also thought about an APT fabricators diff cover for extra strength and stability for the diff centre. They are heavy and strong as all hell. I have one on my s2a
It would also give you a strong point to maybe weld on those tabs you were talking about for bracing. Just a suggestion.

Cheers Rod