Regas with Hychill -30

**Kev the Fridgy** · 23rd January 2014, 09:32 PM

Originally Posted by Blknight.aus

the pressure temp relationship is known. its on the charts and you use your gauges

whats not known is how all of the parts are working together

ever had to do a cars AC that had a crushed pipe in the condensor The whole system works well right up untill you get some good airflow over the condensor and then half of it begins to work as an evaporator, Run it up in the workshop and its fine, get it on the road and the performance deminishes.

thats what all the thermometers do for me, lets me avoid sticking my fat fingers into little spaces near hot engines and spinny bits of death.

unless you're really really cowboying it and running direct lines you're going to have a gauge set on to connect the high and low side for vacing and filling anyway...

I think your missing my point Dave, Superheat and Subcooling are the basis of performance, they are the difference between actual refrigerant temp and what the gauge is telling you, with out this info you can't be sure the system is working correctly.

If you were measuring subcooling the crushed pipe would have been evident in the workshop

**rick130** · 24th January 2014, 05:37 AM

Dave, a blockage like that is apparent pretty quickly.

A blocked drier/strainer is a semi-regular enough occurrence that you automatically check for temp differences with the old digits, which are sensitive enough to pick a 1-2K TD.

As Kev said, superheat and subcooling tell everything, your gauges give you the accurate temps inside the condenser and evap to ascertain these.
Thermometers there just aren't needed.

**scarry** · 24th January 2014, 06:28 PM

Originally Posted by rick130

you automatically check for temp differences with the old digits, which are sensitive enough to pick a 1-2K TD.

Thats the first thing a fridgie does,grabs the pipes,compresser sump,heads,shell,etc.
Then with the same digits feels the air off and on the evap. and condenser.

Then refers all this to what the guages say,if needed.

Oh,and a bit of spit on the discharge line is handy as well.........

**Dougal** · 24th January 2014, 06:57 PM

You'll find a vacuum pump attached to most diesel engines. They get far closer to absolute vacuum than I thought possible too.

Easy to check with a guage whether they are suitable or not.

**scarry** · 24th January 2014, 07:57 PM

Originally Posted by Dougal

You'll find a vacuum pump attached to most diesel engines. They get far closer to absolute vacuum than I thought possible too.

Easy to check with a guage whether they are suitable or not.

Guage won't tell you much,sure it will tell you there is a bit of sucking going on,a vacu stat is what you need.

**Kev the Fridgy** · 24th January 2014, 08:47 PM

Originally Posted by scarry

Thats the first thing a fridgie does,grabs the pipes,compresser sump,heads,shell,etc.
Then with the same digits feels the air off and on the evap. and condenser.

Then refers all this to what the guages say,if needed.

Oh,and a bit of spit on the discharge line is handy as well.........

Ahhh ... low temp 22 systems... where spit saves a blister

**Blknight.aus** · 24th January 2014, 10:29 PM

ahh you guys who work with refrigeration thats got nice walk up access that you can reach everything with relative ease without the hassle of having to worry too much about catching your arm in a fan, melting your hoses on an exhaust, or taking one look at how much crap you have to unclip, unwire and unbolt just to be able to put your hand in and touch a part

must be heavenly....

Trust me in most modern Vehicles its an ass load easier to stick a K probe on a wand in through a small gap attached to a meter than it is to remove most of the front end of a car so you can put your finger on something.

which is why most auto places just do gauges and maybe, if you're lucky a thermometer in the vents, I near fell off the couch when I had to take works rodeo in for a service, sitting there waiting for it (1hr they said) and while I was watching through the service window a "service technician" pulled the shreader valve, dumped gas and oil to atmosphere, put it on a vac pump and started to change the desiccant in the condenser recapped that and left the vac pump running while he walked off to get the gas bottle and the gauges. Removed the pump put the schreader back in then dumped refrigerant in (no scales) unhooked it all did the spit on a finger on the fitting trick to make sure the valve wasnt leaking and screwed the caps back on.

Just glad he wasnt working on the work vehicle...

**Davo** · 25th January 2014, 12:09 AM

Bump . . .

Originally Posted by Davo

Anyway, back on topic: my '83 Rangie has the York compressor setup but it leaked, (who put that hoseclip on there???) and the entire system is out of the car now. The plan is to keep the evaporator but to replace the old condensor, all the hoses and drier, and to put a new Sanden compressor at the lower LH side of the engine like some 80s Range Rovers had.

Will the 31-year-old evaporator and expansion valve be okay? Is there a better type of condensor these days? Am I on the right track with this?

**scarry** · 25th January 2014, 08:12 AM

Originally Posted by Blknight.aus

ahh you guys who work with refrigeration thats got nice walk up access that you can reach everything with relative ease without the hassle of having to worry too much about catching your arm in a fan, melting your hoses on an exhaust, or taking one look at how much crap you have to unclip, unwire and unbolt just to be able to put your hand in and touch a part

must be heavenly....

while I was watching through the service window a "service technician" pulled the shreader valve, dumped gas and oil to atmosphere

Just glad he wasnt working on the work vehicle...

Ok,back on topic....

Some of our units are damm hard to access as well.

And the guy you saw,and his employer, may end up in more trouble than a murderer,unless the system was full of Hychill.....

**Kev the Fridgy** · 25th January 2014, 11:29 AM

Originally Posted by Davo

Bump . . .

Fair enough back on topic,

Davo, the Evap may well be ok, have a very close look over it for corrosion, all things being equal the internal surfaces should be ok, if you can peer down inside one of the tubes with a small torch see if it still looks relatively clean. For the cost of an expansion valve I would replace it, it might be ok but remember it has a moving part inside (needle/orifice) so may be sticky etc. Condenser, at that age it is dependant on previous usage, the fins my be separating from the tubes or corroded, again a visual inspection would be required, as to the sizing, depends on the comp size, I have seen some SD508's fitted here and there and they are a bit smaller in the volumetric efficiency than a York 210 so would be ok but again, visual check is first

Your best bet considering where you are is to have a bit of a ring around local guy's, persistence will pay off, usually the guys that will give you good advice are not the ones that have all the flash advertising. Any info or advice you do get can always be posted here for discussion

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