Thread: Regas with Hychill -30

Originally Posted by Blknight.aus

ahh you guys who work with refrigeration thats got nice walk up access that you can reach everything with relative ease without the hassle of having to worry too much about catching your arm in a fan, melting your hoses on an exhaust, or taking one look at how much crap you have to unclip, unwire and unbolt just to be able to put your hand in and touch a part

must be heavenly....


Trust me in most modern Vehicles its an ass load easier to stick a K probe on a wand in through a small gap attached to a meter than it is to remove most of the front end of a car so you can put your finger on something.

which is why most auto places just do gauges and maybe, if you're lucky a thermometer in the vents, I near fell off the couch when I had to take works rodeo in for a service, sitting there waiting for it (1hr they said) and while I was watching through the service window a "service technician" pulled the shreader valve, dumped gas and oil to atmosphere, put it on a vac pump and started to change the desiccant in the condenser recapped that and left the vac pump running while he walked off to get the gas bottle and the gauges. Removed the pump put the schreader back in then dumped refrigerant in (no scales) unhooked it all did the spit on a finger on the fitting trick to make sure the valve wasnt leaking and screwed the caps back on.

Just glad he wasnt working on the work vehicle...

I now it can be hard Dave and trust me it is no harder than working in the bilges of trawlers lying over the top of engines hanging upside down to repair leaks or scurrying across the top of 50 tonne of frozen Scallop at -40 to change a TX etc etc but measuring air on and off temps will tell you the efficiency of the heat exchange between the fins and the air which is important but you also need to know the efficiency of the system, the 2 work hand in hand, yes it is hard on some modern vehicles as it is in a lot of modern commercial systems as the same principles in design are used (cheap to make expensive to service) if you were to use your K probe on a wand to touch the pipe adjacent to the gauge port you can get a pretty good idea of superheat, same goes with subcooling, I have fitted K probes to the Bic biro tubes in the past to gain access to tight areas, you could use a length of 3 mm poly or similar with the a probe inserted as a "touch probe"

Originally Posted by rick130

Guess what Dave, some of us work on auto air too, mainly when the local motor mechanic can't work it out.......

Ha Ha,half the jobs we go to they have had someone who did this and that and charged them for it but ever since they were there it sort of doesn't work real well like it used to.......

Originally Posted by rick130

Guess what Dave, some of us work on auto air too, mainly when the local motor mechanic can't work it out.......

yeah, but..... google did not tell him that

Originally Posted by Ancient Mariner

Not quite so simple Dave the evap unit is about 30000 btu capacity there is about 9 meters of piping and a decent filter dryer.Thanks for the link very helpfull .With the pressures suggested and frosting on the suction all should be cool

Thanks Noel

Um, no. You definitely do not want frosting on the suction line in this application. With conditioned space temperatures above freezing, frosting on the suction line indicates liquid flood back. Compressors don't like liquid one bit.
What you're looking for is a 'sweating' suction back to the compressor.

Ideally, as my fellow fridgies have said, use superheat & subcool figures for accuracy. Superheat is the differnce between the temperature on your suction gauge & the temperature of the suction pipe. Sub cooling is the same thing, but on the liquid line & your high side gauge. Take the pipe temp. as close to the valve that your guage is connects to as possible.
The general rule is to wait until the system has been operating for 10-15 minutes before taking any readings, in order to let the system stabilise.

Originally Posted by Kev the Fridgy

Fair enough back on topic,


Davo, the Evap may well be ok, have a very close look over it for corrosion, all things being equal the internal surfaces should be ok, if you can peer down inside one of the tubes with a small torch see if it still looks relatively clean. For the cost of an expansion valve I would replace it, it might be ok but remember it has a moving part inside (needle/orifice) so may be sticky etc. Condenser, at that age it is dependant on previous usage, the fins my be separating from the tubes or corroded, again a visual inspection would be required, as to the sizing, depends on the comp size, I have seen some SD508's fitted here and there and they are a bit smaller in the volumetric efficiency than a York 210 so would be ok but again, visual check is first


Your best bet considering where you are is to have a bit of a ring around local guy's, persistence will pay off, usually the guys that will give you good advice are not the ones that have all the flash advertising. Any info or advice you do get can always be posted here for discussion

Thanks for that - I almost hated to interrupt that lovefest though!

The compressor from the system I'm copying is an Ogura 135, so we'll see if there's a Sanden equivalent. Nothing online, though.

The condensor has had it from damage and corrosion and I'll get a new one, and I've looked for an expansion valve and they seem sort of available still. The evaporator looks good and I'd hate to try and replace it right now, given that it's built into the lower dash.

The nearest shops are in Brooome and there seems to be one or two places that know what they're doing. The plan is to get all the parts and hoses sorted out so that I can do the assembly here, (except for the drier, of course), and then drive way over there and get the system finished.

This system I've pulled out is quite funny. There are two bars for the condensor fans, and a plate at the end of the condensor, and added up they cover about two hands-worth of radiator. Hopefully I'll improve on that.

Originally Posted by CountP

Yes but he's in Perth and I am on the Gold Coast.
I think I need to find someone who will do the vacuum test and if doesn't pass, let me sort it out before he charges me for the regas.

I'm on the Coast. I don't do vehicle fridge so I don't have adaptors, but if your system has standard 1/4" schraeder valves you're welcome to use my Vac pump & vacuum gauge.
There's another member on here who's in the trade & on the coast, who may be willing to help. Dunno if he has adaptors though.

By the way, Diana is correct when she says that you need the licences to work on / with R12 or R134, including recovering it from your system.
It is also illegal to vent refrigerants to atmosphere.

To finish off.
Had a vac on it for 36 hours.
Weighed in 320 grams.
With the fan on high these are the operating pressures at a fast idle.
With the fan on 2 the unit actually got cold enough to cycle. Its never done that before.
Still a few bubbles in the sight glass but thats OK.

Hi.
After years of service the D3 aircon is struggling to reach a cool cabin temperature in a reasonable time frame and the internal fan is blowing a gale of average cooled air.

I have 3 small cans of H12 and would like to regas my D3 Dual Aircon.

Most people quote 1/3 the amount of R134a and Hychill documents that are floating around on the net have values for the D1 and D2 aircon units but not for the D3.

So does anyone know how much Hychill HR12 you would need to put into a D3 Dual aircon unit?

Thanks and Merry Xmas.