Thread: SOS and lots of swear words!

Disregad my last, I was speed reading before I replied.. i thought you had oil On your coolant tank..

If its in the tank and you had 0 pressure the fault is most likely in the cooler or its connections. Check the sump for water....

Drop the drain plug and fit the cooling system pressure tester.. no doubt water will spill out everywhere... wait for the water to stop flowing then listen to the engine... no doubt it will be bleeding air out... remove the filler cap/rocker cover and listen again... you should be able to identify the generic region of the leak. A mechanics stethescope will help here.

Hi Edd,

This is horrific!

I'm sorry this has occured, but don't panic TOO much yet. As Andrew has already suggested, check the oil cooler first, I had similar symptoms in a '99 130 Td5 once, and 3 weeks after doing the head, which needed a valve job badly, it filled the cooling system with oil. We pulled the head only to discover nothing amiss, and eventually traced the fault to a pin hole in the oil cooler. Corroded out. I would be checking the cooler first, as it is a damn sight easier, and cheaper.

Good luck

JC

Thanks guys. No coolant in the oil but the oil is pumping into the coolant. We filld it with oil again and started it up and no horible noises but as soon as it warned up or goes into boost the oil pumped into the coolant tank. Guessing it shut it down quick enough. Guess $80 in oil to not hear the dreded baring noises isn't to bad.

Any one have an idea what the oil coolers are worth?

Edd, Unless there was a major stuff up fitting the head, IE not tensioned correctly, or the block is damaged or corroded badly in the region of the oil gallery supply hole, I would definately look at the cooler first.

JC

I have a kind of torture test for the cooling system....I use it when I get one of those niggling intermitant leaks or suspect some other fault that I want to replicate right now and permanantly so I know what part to fix....

This IS very unkind to engine cooling systems. DO not be more aggessive with it than you have to. Do expect at least one part of the system to fail.

warning over.

Drain the system.

Unplug the heater hoses from the block (unless you need to test that too in which case t piece off of one of them) and connect an air line, you can also do this off of the drain cocks by removing one and threading in a fitting.

plug the air line, via a variable regulator, into a real aircompressor (not a 12v vehicle jobbie) and wind up the juice.

The minimum pressure you should get to before anything goes wrong is whatever is stamped on the tank cap+10% rounded up.....

get there and listen for leaks, wind it up slowly and keep listening....

IF you suspect the block or a component thereof remove the radiator hoses and fit blanking caps to the block and go again..

Once you hear the air leaking if you cant see it stop, fill the system with premixed water and the food colouring die of your choice. add air again for about 1 minute, then drain the system then dismantle and look for the leaks.

Best of luck to ya... OH BTW the little hose between the thermostat housing and the pump on a series engine bursts at about 65psi and does so with a nice sudden pop that makes you think terrible terrible thoughts and require underwear changes.

Edd, is your car leased? Are repairs covered under the lease?

If it is what I think it is (PBC101270) from the drawings, price of it is between $770 and $1000 for the cooler complete (depends upon supplier).

Ron

Ron Vehicle is a lease vehicle. I drained my lease account plus a personal loan last time. I currently have $1500-$2000 worth of receipts I could claim if there was money in there to pay them out. Pan at the moment is to look for loose head bolts and then remove oil cooler looking for leaks. If thats the problem then see about repairing or replacing depending on amount of damage and costs.

who put the head on?

can a cooler be repaired at all?