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Thread: TD5 cylinder glazing

  1. #21
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    From the pics if thats been worked on dont go back there....

    theres been forign matter contamination of the oil which has woundup bedding into the bearings and galled them the most common cause of this (and judging by the look of the bore hone work it fits) is a shonky build up without a proper block wash before the rebuild and not putting assembly goop on the engine parts before assembly..


    The map you run makes bugger all difference to the run in procedure if your just going to baby it, its a turbo diesel it will only use as much fuel as you tell it to use until youve got your boot firmly on the noise and are deforming the floor panels then its either stopped by the govenor or by the amount of fuel the map, the injectors or the pump can deliver.

    if your certain its been well built a rough run in procedure would be as follows...

    for the first hour you baby the bugger out of it, not more than about 3K rpm and keep it under half loaded this is just so you can make sure that its not leaking and nothings worked loose, after that for the next 10 hours or so you load the motor up near the 60-70 % mark and use 20-80% of your rev range. now you change your oil and filters, if your feeling adventurous remove and clean the sump

    now you can start to use your full rev range and your full torque but dont go treating it like a drag car accelerate it slowly and keep it fairly well loaded up without making it labour. keep that up to the 5000K mark or the 50 hour mark drop your oils and filters again and in theory if you get it right your engine should be run in.

    thats how big red got done and shes pushing 130K Km +
    Dave

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  2. #22
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    Thanks Dave, that's good advise I'm going to follow !!

    I'm now waiting for Monday when the engineering firm who did the job, is going to come and give there 10c' worth of input, and then the diesel and oil test results should also come back.

    I refuse to pay any more but so does the garage ! So it's interesting to see what's going to happen. I got a third party assessor in to keep things clean - he seems to know quite a bit.

    I just want my baby back and kicking but on the local sand dunes here in Cape Town.

    Many Thanks

  3. #23
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    I agree with everything Dave has mentioned, and I'll add my bit too about the rebuild. Those bearings are a sure sign of improper measurement/ and / or contaminants in the oil supply. Those bores look scored, and poorly honed, and I would be hesitant to let the same rebuilders at it again. After 5600km this engine should still look almost 'as assembled' in the bearing and bore department

    JC
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  4. #24
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    the bore pic looks like its been honed and not bored. have you got proof of new or oversized pistons??

    cheers phil

  5. #25
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    How can you tell Phil??
    "How long since you've visited The Good Oil?"

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  6. #26
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    Looking through this thread,there is some real good advise from some guys who are experts in this field.
    I am no mechanic,but thought i would add my 2 cents worth.I have had 3 TD5's from new.First two had first service at 20k,as advised by LR,in those days.Both those engines did over 100k before i sold them,they never used a drop of oil,had no probs at all.The third one did 10k before first service,& have no probs,still got it.
    I would not use any oil that is not a fully synthetic of the correct grade,which i presume is used by LR when the engine is brand new,& is specified by LR for this engine.

    I also ran in those engines similar to what others have said.

    As said your problem may be bad workmanship or whatever,and using the correct oil,and looking after the engine,may not have aleviated the problem

    Good luck with it

    UMMM.......we find here that if you take a Landy to mechanics who are not familiar with them........problems seem to occur......regularly

  7. #27
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    I agree with Dave and JC. Looks like a lack of cleanliness, and i'd be checking clearances too.

    To give you an idea about cleanliness, I used to spend near on two hours washing and scrubbing a block after machine work. I have a selection of different size bristle brushes for scrubbing out the oil galleries and a scrubbing brush to dislodge crap from the bores using Drive and water.
    it was the most important part of a build up IMO, apart from measure, measure and re-measure (OK I might have a touch of OCD too )

    Phil, pretty sure you can't get OS pistons for the TD5.

  8. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pedro_The_Swift View Post
    How can you tell Phil??
    the cylinder bore is way to patchy, there isnt a strong enough cross hatch in the honing. if a cylinder isnt bored and just re honed the honing stones wont hone the low spots out, unless you use a ball hone, but thats cheating. for a rebuilt enging thats only done 5000k's the hone marks should look like they had just been done.

    ive slapped afew bangers together for speedway that have just been re honed and they all had low spots in the bores from ring and piston ware. its not critical in speedway cos std holdens dont last that long anyway


    there's something funny about this TD5, like why did it need a rebuild and how many k's were on it. and if OS pistons arnt available and the bore was out of tollerance why was it re built??


    cheers phil

  9. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by justinc View Post
    Just to add, Idling a diesel is a big no no, Especially one that is still in a running in state. Secondly, overcooling will cause similar problems as you get incomplete combustion, so make certain the engine gets to operating temp quickly, and that as soon as you start it you DRIVE it .
    Learn something every day - thanks Justin!

  10. #30
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    What are the crank bearing journals like now?
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