Thread: D4 Electric Trailer Brake Wiring

Originally Posted by LRD414

Ian, have a look at this recent thread and in particular, the 3rd last post by strydes

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/d3-d4-rrs/...g-removal.html


Cheers,
Scott

Thanks Scott, just the thing - I had not found that thread.
Cheers, Ian

Hi all, pulled the light off the L/H/R of a HSE my16, and I can't find this split joint for the life of me..any tips? I can't take a photo because it's too dark

Originally Posted by Silvo

Hi all, pulled the light off the L/H/R of a HSE my16, and I can't find this split joint for the life of me..any tips? I can't take a photo because it's too dark

Assuming you mean the split from single wire to separate black and brown wires within a heat shrink wrap, that's been in the LHR storage compartment for a few years. The earlier ones had it behind the LHR light.

Here's a photo from page 44 of this thread



Hope that helps,
Scott

Perfect!!! Thanks Scott.

Photos of my Redarc Tow Pro install (rear passenger side compartment). A little bit different to what others have done.... as I decided to put the controller down the back. Have a Mitch Hitch, so the space was available.

Only requires a +12V supply cable from the main battery (which I ran at the same time as installing a Traxide kit with Anderson plug). Mounted the circuit breaker to a rubber plug on the battery box. Picked up the earth from the same Earth stud as all the other trailer socket wiring.

The hardest bit was removing the 12V power socket in the console (without destroying both). A 5m CAT5 Ethernet cable between the controller and the remote head is perfect length (ran down the passenger side). Also installed a switch to enable some load resistors when connecting my van which has LED lights.

Put in a 6A diode to stop the back feed to the ECU. Originally used a 3A diode (as other had recommended) but it died after a period with my incandescent globed box trailer hitched. Did a bit of math and worked out it was pulling almost 4A. Had to buy a packet of 10... so if someone (well up to 9 persons) would like a 6A diode... send me a PM with your address... and I am happy to put one in the mail.

Originally Posted by Nod

Photos of my Redarc Tow Pro install (rear passenger side compartment). A little bit different to what others have done.... as I decided to put the controller down the back. Have a Mitch Hitch, so the space was available.

Only requires a +12V supply cable from the main battery (which I ran at the same time as installing a Traxide kit with Anderson plug). Mounted the circuit breaker to a rubber plug on the battery box. Picked up the earth from the same Earth stud as all the other trailer socket wiring.

The hardest bit was removing the 12V power socket in the console (without destroying both). A 5m CAT5 Ethernet cable between the controller and the remote head is perfect length (ran down the passenger side). Also installed a switch to enable some load resistors when connecting my van which has LED lights.

Put in a 6A diode to stop the back feed to the ECU. Originally used a 3A diode (as other had recommended) but it died after a period with my incandescent globed box trailer hitched. Did a bit of math and worked out it was pulling almost 4A. Had to buy a packet of 10... so if someone (well up to 9 persons) would like a 6A diode... send me a PM with your address... and I am happy to put one in the mail.

Great work the switch is genius by the way

it's beer o clock

Those load resistors are going to get really hot - I'd be careful with the tow pro wires near them

The photo's do not show that there actually is ~8mm between the resistors and the Tow Pro cables. Been in place now for almost 6 months.... all good! Conducted a test with indicator running for 10 minutes... warm+... the heatsinking must be working well... not hot enough to melt anything.