Thread: Perentie turbo project

Originally Posted by walahbro

Ok so I need to buy a complete cav setup with glass bowl then I reuse my lower cannister in conjunction with the top of the new unit and a longer screw to hold it together?

You could also buy this unit with a metal bowl for about the same money.
FFK2951 Single CAV Diesel Fuel Filter W Metal Bowl 1 2in UNF Thread HDF296 NEW | eBay

Although there may be an advantage in using the original deep bowl for the extra cr*p holding capacity.

While these units obviously filter better than the basic cone sedimenter, I would like to know if they are as effective at removing water?

Originally Posted by mark2

...

Although there may be an advantage in using the original deep bowl for the extra cr*p holding capacity.

While these units obviously filter better than the basic cone sedimenter, I would like to know if they are as effective at removing water?

Sorry the bolded bit shows a lack of understanding at how these things work. The bigger the sedimenter bowl, the lower the flow velocity in the bowl, the longer the residence time = better separation efficiency.

In an old design like the CAV there is likely some short circuiting which reduces this effect, but it is still there.

Modern filters use hydrophobic media and are designed to separate both particles AND water. The use of up to 10% bio in diesel worldwide has led to greatly increased difficulty in water separation. Even if the media used in the filters for these units hasn't kept pace with technological advancements, it will still provide better water separation than a sedimenter alone.

Changed the old sedimenter to a new Cav filter unit, and have done everything I can to dial up the boost, even wired the waste gate closed to no avail. I'm giving up, I'll upgrade the clutch first, take her into fred smith for the 6x6 turbo clutch spring hopefully someday this week. Then I was thinking or taking her to the guys from turbo engineering ive heard great things about them there. They can run their diagnostics on the dyno and tell me what's wrong

Update...found my problem...boost hose to gauge, had a kink and small hole. I have been running 20psi the whole time! Fml!
And I was thinking the other day, that I was happy with the performance at 13psi(false reading). What a relief!

Well done. I bet you're glad you didn't pay for a dyno run to find that out !!

Steve

Soooo glad. Dropped the car off today to fred smith automotive. He's a top bloke, realised I was at the right place when I saw about 40 defenders on site. We sat down for half an hour and talked cars, mods and experiences. Can't recommend him enough!

He is da bomb
For me his long term maintenance and upgrade costs were more than the value of the 110
He has the parts on the shelf like flanges, brass bungs and sleeved m/c's but it's his way (maintenance and cost) or the highway

You will get good service and advice/opinion though, that's a given!
Maybe get costs up front is my advice.
Good thread
Watching with interest!
Dc

So also planning a turbo for the GS 110

Have so far;
Kinugawa TD04HL-19T Turbocharger T25 / 6cm Oil-Cooled
8-94366247-0 Isuzu Manifold
T3 to T25 Turbo Adapter Flange
Provent 200 Catch Can
Pyrometer Probe + Display
Boost Gauge

Questions;

Air filter housing? simply flip it or does it need to be modified?
Oil feed - extra fittings required to T off pressure switch?
Oil drain - are standard fittings used to drain into the hole in block next to the engine number?
Turbo Outlet > Air intake - for the pipe running over the engine, are people using 3" crushed? crushing in vice?
Provent plumbing - also use turbo drain? recommended to get a 4bd1t tappet cover?
Alternator heat shielding - recommended?
Full Exhaust (3" Mandrel Stainless no cat) - what sort of quotes should I be looking for in Melb?