What happened to your Discovery 2 today?

First was genuine..it split underneath in the circular protrusion..fixed it temporarily with a welsh plug. 2nd was aftermarket..now got another oem.

Car in million bits.(2002 EU3)
FPR was ****ing diesel out so I removed inlet manifold as I have a new unit with hose.
Decided to renew the contacts in the starter as the car has done 206Kk and living on borrowed time. The big contact was wafer thin. Still a ***** of a job as the nuts and bolts were bloody tight and you cannot get a big socket in there. I used a jack handle as an extension. Still took about an hour out but maybe 15 minutes to repair and 5 minutes back in. The big clunk as I tested the solenoid with a power supply was very satisfying.
I am also replacing the glow plugs . I know there are many that say not necessary, but the only time you can replace them is when you have the manifold off. I have to work out something with the leads as the insulators are all broken, although there is a sleeve that goes over the top of the glow plug. I am replacing with Beru from Mario as the ones in there are Beru, so I assume that is Original.

I would not like to get caught at Thredbo in a snow storm and the bloody car won't start.

Ah well , a couple more days of cursing the unreachability of the manifold bolts.
Regards PhilipA

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Originally Posted by PhilipA

Car in million bits.(2002 EU3)
FPR was ****ing diesel out so I removed inlet manifold as I have a new unit with hose.
Decided to renew the contacts in the starter as the car has done 206Kk and living on borrowed time. The big contact was wafer thin. Still a ***** of a job as the nuts and bolts were bloody tight and you cannot get a big socket in there. I used a jack handle as an extension. Still took about an hour out but maybe 15 minutes to repair and 5 minutes back in. The big clunk as I tested the solenoid with a power supply was very satisfying.
I am also replacing the glow plugs . I know there are many that say not necessary, but the only time you can replace them is when you have the manifold off. I have to work out something with the leads as the insulators are all broken, although there is a sleeve that goes over the top of the glow plug. I am replacing with Beru from Mario as the ones in there are Beru, so I assume that is Original.

I would not like to get caught at Thredbo in a snow storm and the bloody car won't start.

Ah well , a couple more days of cursing the unreachability of the manifold bolts.
Regards PhilipA

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Curious, how clean is inside of the inlet manifold. The catch can ads make it sound quite dire.

I have to work out something with the leads as the insulators are all broken, although there is a sleeve that goes over the top of the glow plug. I am replacing with Beru from Mario as the ones in there are Beru, so I assume that is Original.

I would not like to get caught at Thredbo in a snow storm and the bloody car won't start.

Ah well , a couple more days of cursing the unreachability of the manifold bolts.
Regards PhilipA[/QUOTE]



Heat shrink worked real well for me

Attachment 153648

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Curious, how clean is inside of the inlet manifold. The catch can ads make it sound quite dire.

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My inlet manifold is really clean inside since I have had a catch can on for a year or so as is the turbo inlet and rubber hose from the MAF to the turbo. No drips when I took off the hose from intercooler to inlet. Just a sort of wipe off deposit in the ports(which I didn't clean out last time anyway)

When I last did the FPR a few years ago the inlet was filthy inside and took me a long time to clean. The EGR valve was also filthy and partially blocked at 134KK. I have deleted the EGR since. I used a Gerni and spread crap all over myself.

The one thing I don't really know about the catch can is whether it increases the leaks from the gaskets due to higher crankcase pressure .
Regards PhilipA

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Originally Posted by thai_tiger

I have to work out something with the leads as the insulators are all broken, although there is a sleeve that goes over the top of the glow plug. I am replacing with Beru from Mario as the ones in there are Beru, so I assume that is Original.

I would not like to get caught at Thredbo in a snow storm and the bloody car won't start.

Ah well , a couple more days of cursing the unreachability of the manifold bolts.
Regards PhilipA

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Heat shrink worked real well for me

Attachment 153648[/QUOTE]

I went for cut lengths of silicone hose

I used heat shrink too as I have buckets on tap, but I like Tombies silicon hose

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Originally Posted by INter674

2nd one gone in 24 months..split underneath across the mid line seam. Got another from a different supplier this time. .. luckily as the dependants have horse riding tomorrow...see how this one goes I guess😐

Glad it lasted across the desert tho... where it could have been much much worse.. pays to pull the hood everyday with a disco..in fact that's why it's called a Discovery...you discover another problem each and every day☺

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re tanks, Genuine are the only ones that last. look at how long the original ones lasted, they are less susceptible to heat as the plastics are better
or for the money of a genuine go alloy ones.

Photos of inlet manifold as it came apart.
Attachment 153664Attachment 153665Attachment 153666

As can be seen the EGR replacement pipe is absolutely clean, the inlet port is also clean although the black is from previous, and the MAP was also clean.
Regards PhilipA

Parked outside ALDI and a hapless bugger put his tow bar through my cracked and brittle front bumper. Makes a change on my part to have a No Fault claim on his insurance. Turns out a steel bar is cheaper than original so no contest. Yesterday I had the new one fitted and like the look. I don't have a winch......yet. Why LR thought plastic bumpers were a good idea will forever remain a mystery. One question - Can I now safely nudge and bump with my 5mm steel bumper without setting off the airbags?
Cheers,
Pete
Sorry, no pics as I seem to have forgotten how to do this!