This doesn't sound great, first start in a long time. Went away after a good 10mins. Thoughts? normal? Excuse the pod :P
https://youtu.be/ewfLvg8zWG4
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This doesn't sound great, first start in a long time. Went away after a good 10mins. Thoughts? normal? Excuse the pod :P
https://youtu.be/ewfLvg8zWG4
Oil pressure?
Hi run this one and it's very good watch Netflix and YouTube etc
https://www.alpine.com.au/shop/navig...alo/ilx-f309e/
I’m not the most mechanically minded, I started by getting an iso adapter kit from aeropro, one of my mates suggested using make-a-bracket which I did and am ever so grateful for the advice, I’ll post a couple of photos I remembered to take, I basically made a u bracket and forced it between the air vents and the dash, can’t seem to add then the reply I’ll make another post tomorrow with the in bits views
That is quite a system and a little bit envious as to the ease of installation etc. and the camera system on the Alpine units is amazing.
Have the older and much smaller (sic) X801D the compatible camera module Alpine KCx- 2500 input can control three cameras with selectable control of top bottom left and right of the cameras. My rear camera is going to mounted hanging down off the internal rear brake light so I get a clear view at all times as the sweep of the wiper covers the area. Think it is advantageous off road with the roof rack etc. to be able see 'above' the roof when backing as well - The Alpine units allow selectable areas of view, top bottom left and right.
KCX-C250MC | Alpine Electronics of Australia
The front and side camera are going down low on the front bull bar (for minor protection against grit wear, gotten a sheet of smartphone screen protector) - giving me a low left and right view.
As an adjunct was going to purchase the Alpine cameras but at $150+ each they are a little pricy when getting three. Turns out you can use other cameras as long as they all operate the same NTSC or PAL (the initial view camera determines the units choice of system to be able to display)
There is also for your unit an accessory controller which I am a bit jealous of, the
KAC-001
Attachment 173330
So satisfying to fit the SLS back today and two inch spacers, really is a simple refit and the whole thing was done in less than an hour including the Bilsteins. The nanocom was a boon to slowly inflate the bags to check for integrity and no leaks it would appear. Still waiting on fitting the Ashcroft ATB which is in Singapore, delayed again, so couldn't inflate it fully.
Think the hardest thing was finding where they had put the air line which they had tucked up, lock tied and covered with about 10 layers of tape.
Ohh there was a electrical connector hanging off just below the rear fuel filter which didn't seem to have a home. This is not the height sensor, they have been raised with the lift, connected and providing inputs to SLABS. The connector is the other side of the wheel
This is what I had with cold start, not sure if thats in spec with out having a google.
https://i.ibb.co/B38DtGJ/photo-2021-09-04-19-58-02.jpg
What ever it is has gone nothing today, oil levels were fine but I did a full service as it was all most due.
https://youtu.be/mhlPQ6Jek1M
Relief valve opening pressure is 58psi .. and your gauge is right on the money!
I think whilst the sound could have been tappety(ie. oil pressure) related, I think the injectors can also make similar sounding noise due to the fact that they need fuel for their own pressurising system too.
That is, the fuel in the injector is pressurised by the cam to 22 or 25 K psi.
So if, say, one had a bit of air, it can clackety clack in a similar manner.
When we had injector seals leaking and causing shut down issues, after a priming routine, the injector(s) made this clackety noise as it properly purged itself of air(for a few seconds) and finally settling down to a smoother idle.
But every time it did that(or we had to do this routine) it came with greyish smoke which would disappear when the idle smoothed out.
You mentioned "first start in a long time". Do you turn ignition on first, to prime the fuel system a bit with a few secs of fuel pump running .. and then hit the starter, or directly to the starter?
Thanks, yeah, I did let it prime up all the way. I think the knocking was the top end, so I guess injector related. There has always been a faint knock sometimes once all warmed up. The injector seals were meant to have been done by the previous owner via a shop, but who knows, I have found all sorts of things not done right since I took it. Maybe the injectors are just poorly adjusted when re-fitting. I am yet to take the cover off.