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There was an OKA over here in WA that was running a 6.6 Duramax, then if you back it with the 6 speed Allison auto you could almost use it as a daily [bigwhistle]Quote:
Originally Posted by Tins
(Apparently 1/4 mile times were below 30 secs which is bloody quick for a decked out truck that size.... )
cheers
Redd
I have driven my D2a to Adelaide several times, it goes great, two trips to Parkes, then on the second trip to Siding Springs. The drive was easy, comfortable quiet. Lovely, A few trips to Canberra, one return with the L plate daughter driving, I remember we are going at 110 kph on the highway and we an talk to each other in normal voices. Oh and one hurried trip to Sydney, I set the tent up at about 1 am. Before the lift and the roof rack I'd get 9.2 L per 100 km on the highway.Quote:
Originally Posted by Tins
The D2 headlights get a good lift from better quality and more powerful bulbs. Where did you locate the MAFs? I have a petrol but found when I tried some cheap ones years ago that they were no good. It would be nice having access to ones that were both inexpensive and had good performance. CheersQuote:
Originally Posted by AK83
Watching my younger lad rebuild his D2a is fun. He has replaced the stock leaking auto transmission cooler with a Davies Craig unit and stainless braided lines with screw compression fittings. He found a made in UK genuine radiator new for $200. Parts for these cars are really very cheap generally now. He stripped, cleaned and reassembled the 4.0 with new headgaskets and machined heads. Purrs nicely now. My 4.6 gets the occasional run. They will both head out 4wding together soon.
Both D2 and D2a on LEDs at the moment.Quote:
Originally Posted by ozscott
Both LED, different brands and types(H4 on the D2 and H7 on the 2a) give good colour. Nice and white(not the horrible blue-white) some LEDs have.
Technically the D2s LED should be 'better' in that they are Philips Ultinon types. 2a I installed something off Amazon.
Had to go for less than $50 H7s otherwise I'd be broke! Reason is, I got about 5 or so pairs. wanted to do the 307, 3008 and D2a needs 2 pairs AND have a spare set. But all 5 pairs of Amazon 'cheapies' still cost less than the Philips LEDs. Originally I got the Philips for the D1, and a cheaper set for the D2(back then), but the Philips were so much better, I swapped them out of D1 and into D2 and put halogens into the D1(I was prepping it for RWC and sale too).
D2a definitely better, spread and depth. Probably becomes moot when/if you add additional lighting tho. And the downside of D2a is the polycarbonate lens. I've polished LHS, just been to lazy to do RHS and it's very yellow.
Been doing a bit of late driving recently, daughter up here and she got her license, so we're going out, bit of photography and getting her confidence up driving at night. Did some rock climbing last night and coming back down in D2a I think for sure the lights helped heaps(compared to D2) .. I don't have any additional lights on either. D1 had a light bar and had good spread for night bush driving(no depth) but I left it on for new owner. I'll look at something for the D2 before winter.
MAFs are all on ebay. Some in the $50 range, some in the upper end(and Delphi) closer to $200.
But I stated a couple of pages back, the reason I'm contemplating a cheapie, against all advice too! ... is that the cheapie that was in the D2(which I totally forgot about) is still working perfectly. It was the original siemens that finally packed up in the D2a. The ebay cheapie that went from D2 to D2a, was either installed (at the latest) in 2018, but I think 2017. I kind'a have a vague memory of it.. but not exact. Reason for confidence of those dates is that bro bought the D2 in Jan 2017 and we had a heap of issue with it early on. Last major issue was just sorting the cooling system. All fuel related stuff was prior to that(FPR, fuel pump, and finally injector seals).
AND! .. I know all the issues with going for a cheap MAF. sheepishly! .. I got one for (then) my dads 307(HDi). The car is a wreck barely worth the paint on it. Problem is it just goes. My old man never looked after it and in fact all but tried to destroy it. it refuse to die, but it has it's 'lack of due diligence' issues. He no longer drives, I can't bring myself to send it to the wreckers, so I just pay the rego on it. it generally gets 4l/100, so out here makes it a huge advantage. But that cheap maf could be its problem. Its MAF has a temperature sensor in it, and thats one of the issues with the engine at the moment. MAF on the 307 is similar to TD5 .. disconnect it and issues go away [bigrolf]
So yeah, I know the issues that cheap mafs can cause.
I understand the frustration of having to pay serious $$ for a genuine or OEM MAF.Quote:
Originally Posted by ozscott
There are really only 2 viable options.
1. Unplug the MAF (if you don't have an EGR), and fuelling will fail over to "speed density" method via the MAP/IAT.
This provides reasonably accurate fuelling and normal performance.
2. The other option is buy a proper MAF.
I've tried a few cheapies and some not so cheapies and it's not worth it.
I've found ones that are accurate at idle and then wildly inaccurate at higher flow rates.
I've seen ones that are accurate when the air temp is cold, but again.. Wildly inaccurate when air temperature warms up.
This can show itself by substandard performance at certain rev ranges or inversely, "great performance" with a propensity for rolling coal.
My suggestion if you don't want to pony up the $$, is too unhook the MAF until you can afford another.
All of this only applies to the EU3 (15p) fuelling, if you have an EU2 (10p) with no EGR, changing the MAF or unplugging will provide no change as it's not used for fuelling, for normal use I wouldn't bother having one.
I hope that clarifies things.
Hate the 2a lights. They’re like grass. Do them once and it never ends. I got tired of expensive H4 halogen though. They ain’t what they used to be. Found some quite impressive LED lamps. Most of them are pretty poor and don’t aim properly, which is not such a big deal for me but it’s a bugger for the poor bloke coming the other way. I’m used to good lights, as pretty much alll my driving used to be at night. D2 lights are fine, and coupled with quality driving lights I don’t want anything else.
Best standard lights I ever used were in an AU Falcon, of all things. Modern lights are crap.
I suppose I'd better explain that statement. Nearly every new car is designed for city or urban use. In that environment there is so much light that headlights are useless for seeing where you are going. Headlights are for others to see you. Few of the markets they are designed for have conditions like rural or outback Australia. I have been in quite a few modern cars recently, getting a lift. I can't believe they put up with the lights, around here where there are quite a few dark spots. My friend from choir drove me home in his 23 I think Model S and I asked him if he was going to turn them on. He said they WERE on. And these were far better than the pencil torch sized lights on the Mazda CX3 another person has. Reckon my D2 is better on low beam than they are on high. The physical laws of optics won't be beaten by styling.Quote:
Originally Posted by Tins
Over the past few days, I have:
Re seated the data port. It cam lose when I was trying to push the Nanocom plug onto it. It wen back surprisingly easy.
Re attached the TPMS to the windscreen with double sided tape. I know an easy fix, you take them when you get them.
Replaced the blower fan "Resistor" I started to undo one screw on the unit, then checked and found out that only one screw holds it in. Not the screw I was loosening. I undid the correct screw and spent ages trying to re move the multiplug with out breaking the clips. The clips are on the faulty unit! So I just broke them. Fitted the new unit and tested it. All good. Put the glovebox and lower trim piece in. Job done.
Jobs remaining:
Starter motor.
ABS cable needs renewal.
Fix SLS leak.
The young fellas improvemAttachment 195275Attachment 195276Attachment 195277ents. Cheers
