Thread: What happened to your Discovery 2 today?

Originally Posted by mylesaway

Not so...

$400 ex AU should buy you a OEM Borg Warner genuine.

$150 ex UK buys you the Bearmach copy.

Genuine ex UK is still around A$275ish...

I have no experience with the Bearmach copies. Maybe others may know if they are okay...

cheers

I have the bearmach knockoff on my v8. Does exactly what it says it does.

I got into the car and started the engine, the TPMS started beeping and flashing. The RHS rear was at 16 psi. I had a look at the tyre, saw a nail through the tread. Luckily I had the air compressor and pumped it up.
The four Amigos are back. Nanocom says Front RHS intermittent output. I put in, well Kaaiju put in an OEM hub a couple of years ago. I think the solder joint I did has failed.

Originally Posted by shayne86

I have the bearmach knockoff on my v8. Does exactly what it says it does.

You're lucky .. so much cheaper than the TD5. TD5 viscous come with fan too .. no option.

Originally Posted by Bohica

I got into the car and started the engine, the TPMS started beeping and flashing. The RHS rear was at 16 psi. I had a look at the tyre, saw a nail through the tread. Luckily I had the air compressor and pumped it up.
......

In 6 years, I've only 'needed' it once. But it was nice to have it warn me while I untypically ignored the strong pull to the left feeling .. doh!

Quite possibly the only product made of Chinesium that has worked properly in my experience.
I got a system for my dad's little Peugeot. He's old and doesn't pay attention much. At least he can hear annoying beeps.
But not too long ago, he drive me bonkers about his TPMS system, and that one of the screw on sensors was stuffed because my brother screwed it on wrongly.
I told him many times, tyre is losing air, but he would have a bar of it .. he was adamant that the sensor was cross threaded and losing air.
So I took it all off, and he was happy .. till he called me to come and inflate his flat tyre!

More coolant fun today, fitted the oil cooler and new gasket, again and still had a leak... then not one but three, Then threaded an oil filter bolt... more practice at pulling it all apart and putting it back together and waste of half a day to fix all the leaks and be satisfied with the integrity of the system.

But today the turbo and down pipe were bolted in place with the oil pipes attached and the engine filled with oil only to realize that one of the lower oil pipes was not connected to the block, ohh the underside of the engine block has become an old friend. Intercooler pipe to the manifold was piped for the turbo boost gauge, bit more wiring and where the hell did today go?

So wish it was start up day became another fiddly day and the garage floor awash with coolant.

Then most interestingly had a discussion with the BIL regarding waterless coolant and the possibility of using it. Turns out he uses it on his it on his classic Jap motorbikes and has for many years with great results. Hmmm have read so much on this and the discussions and naysayers regarding mostly the ability of water to absorb heat versus other fluids - nothing of course about the fact water does not want to give it back easily of course - thinking, in for a penny in for a pound now!

Engine would cut out at 3k rpm then go then stop. Nanocom said airflow something.... Cleared the fault, all good.

Ok, my young bloke rang late last night, his D2a is playing up again..... he went to try to start it and no go, I have a set of starter contacts waiting for me as I know they are playing up. He said, nope not the starter, he couldn't get the key to turn in the ignition and also the steering wheel is locked up. He tried locking unlocking on the fob and the door, still no joy. I told him to put the battery on charge (probably on the way out) so far still no luck.
Soooo brains trust, what now? is it a barrel lock issue? battery? a remote locking issue? or something else random.... Also just as a side note, due to over heating it previously and subsequent head gasket replacement, the electric fan runs constantly, I haven't found anyone yet with a Nanocom to reset this and scan for errors (anyone in the south west WA???) would this be a factor in the no start issue?? Previous to this it has been running like a dream instead of the nightmare it was when we got it...

cheers

Reddirt204

20211114_145415.jpg

Ok not today but yesterday.

Got out to O'Briens Crossing at Lerderderg/Wombat.

Edit: I have no idea why that's a thumbnail. Please imagine a car and some trees etc. Thanks

Originally Posted by Reddirt204

Ok, my young bloke rang late last night, his D2a is playing up again..... he went to try to start it and no go, I have a set of starter contacts waiting for me as I know they are playing up. He said, nope not the starter, he couldn't get the key to turn in the ignition and also the steering wheel is locked up. He tried locking unlocking on the fob and the door, still no joy. I told him to put the battery on charge (probably on the way out) so far still no luck.
Soooo brains trust, what now? is it a barrel lock issue? battery? a remote locking issue? or something else random.... Also just as a side note, due to over heating it previously and subsequent head gasket replacement, the electric fan runs constantly, I haven't found anyone yet with a Nanocom to reset this and scan for errors (anyone in the south west WA???) would this be a factor in the no start issue?? Previous to this it has been running like a dream instead of the nightmare it was when we got it...

cheers

Reddirt204

Has he tried taking the weight off the locking pin? Turn the wheel while simultaneously turning the key.