Thread: What happened to your Discovery 2 today?

Originally Posted by RRT

Of course I didn't take the Nanocom, of course...

So today finally refitted the VF, not because the EF didn't work, was well pleased with it, but to get a base line comparison. Have hooked up the ACCF to the system for turn off cooling and no on demand any more.

The EWPC was showing only around 70C for much of the time and down in the 60C's in some instances with a high of just under 80C which is too low. Reset the thermostat from 92C to 100C a couple of k's before home and this got the temps higher, not enough though.

There was a noticeable drop in power (and increase in noise of course, though not unpleasant) just a touch less buoyancy in the step but still more than adequate, a lot more than adequate I should say!

The EWP is too efficient I surmised when measured against the mechanical pump and the always on aspect of the VF, the Electric system kept the temps as to where I wanted them but as the VF is always cooling I have to trim the efficiency of the EWP with higher Thermostat temps it would appear. The temp on the HVAC display was just 18C so not exactly warm but still the temps stayed low.

If the EF was always on and rose with temps in accordance with them, suppose the result would be quite similar but the DC system is on or off as far as the EF goes. Have already sourced a replacement 18" fan by the way with 4000CFM and this can be controlled as well. It is a little larger than the radiator but this will not be a issue. The 16" fan will go onto the D2a for day to day duties as a daily driver with an EWC and EWPC when I do this up with Hybrid CHRA, EGT removal and straight through pipe from exhaust to muffler.

Reasonably normal looking TD5 now except for the darkside manifold.
Attachment 178074

Then replaced the Head Temp Sensor, 2 minute job and the red light above the temp is gone and the idle is now back to 750rpm and no stutter at start up or sitting at 1000rpm at a stop.

Then what would have to be the simplest of jobs (if you have the back door card off) is the resiting (flipping really) of the wheel carrier. Two holes drilled in the back bars and a small cut out for the rear wiper and around half an hour of work. Now will have a proper 32" spare on the tracks this weekend.

Attachment 178075

Oh and fitted the Land Rover Cup Holders, really like these as have removed the carriage for the dash ones when refitting the console, was going to put the UHF there but there is something else in the pipeline for this space, watch it! Sort of glad I painted the console offsetting them a little bit more

Attachment 178076

Just a couple more things to complete, like the handbrake and low range covers, change over the broken rear door handle and refit the door card and woofers before the weekend. Then the last thing, headlining.

Have you spun this set up on the dyno yet?

Originally Posted by Tombie

Have you spun this set up on the dyno yet?

Still only running at about max 24psi boost and of the few times I have given it the Blundstone, the M&S lights have come on - This also comes on if I put it into reverse too quickly I would add. My understanding is that the Dyno runs are bloody expensive for what is essentially a piece of paper telling you essentially what you know from the seat of the pants, still if it could done for $1-200 would be worthwhile, anybody know where this is possible in Melbourne????

Will investigate it further once the auto TC is done as I lost my spot before Easter due to the starter solenoid issue, then I will up the boost levels probably only to 28psi but the turbo will comfortably do into the mid 30's if for some reason this would be required. Actually did reset the adaptive values in the Auto last week and the box is keeping slightly lower change points than before with my light to moderate blundstone activity.

The new rear rubber in the driveshaft is already showing signs of a split after only about 1500K's since the tune. Think I got this from Paddocks in the UK and have been looking at alternatives such as the urethane ones available for BMW's. Haven't really looked into the solid rear driveshafts or which would be suitable.

Still only running at about max 24psi boost and of the few times I have given it the Blundstone, the M&S lights have come on - This also comes on if I put it into reverse too quickly I would add.

The transmission has a "fail safe" maximum power limitation which you must be exceeding.
They all get confused if you do something too quickly. I always wait until the voltage comes up and all dash lights out before start.
Most annoying is limp home if you start then immediately turn off.
Regards PhilipA

Originally Posted by PhilipA

The transmission has a "fail safe" maximum power limitation which you must be exceeding.
They all get confused if you do something too quickly. I always wait until the voltage comes up and all dash lights out before start.
Most annoying is limp home if you start then immediately turn off.
Regards PhilipA

Good tip, just gotten used to driving off and 1st stop to restart and say good bye to Mario and Stan.

Originally Posted by RRT

Good tip, just gotten used to driving off and 1st stop to restart and say good bye to Mario and Stan.

If you are getting a fault occur when you put the boot in, is most likely a -

"Gear ratio monitoring" error, is that what you are seeing?

Originally Posted by PhilipA

The transmission has a "fail safe" maximum power limitation which you must be exceeding.

Yes! The autos pretty severly limit engine mods because of doing this. All of the big power figures seem to be in manuals. I'm not sure what the point is that it trips, it might be 400Nm, but you can hit it with just a tune and larger intercooler.

My auto goes straight into limp mode if I kick it down. The m and s lights come straight on and lock me in 3rd . Even with my rebuilt auto.

Fault codes anyone?