Thread: What happened to your Discovery 2 today?

Originally Posted by Tins

Filter tools should have a one way ratchet fitting. They are for undoing, not doing up.

Glad mine doesn't, I've been using it to nip up the spin on type since I've had Tennis elbow.(no, I don't play tennis or throw many tanties)

I have always used them to nip up filters on Ls xx engines as they are prone to coming loose.

agree, I've never had an issue with the TD5, you want messy, try the cartridge type Puma's, old 2H tojo, 4jb1 Rodeo spring to mind.

It would be easier to relocate the turbo drain line out of the way using a couple of elbows if you were worried about spilling the oil.

I think the manufacturers that have the filter thread down usually use filters with both an anti drain back ( unfiltered oil )valve as well as an anti syphon ( filtered oil side ) valve

Originally Posted by discorevy

Glad mine doesn't, I've been using it to nip up the spin on type since I've had Tennis elbow.(no, I don't play tennis or throw many tanties)

Yes. They have many uses for other things as well ( well the strap type with the 1/2" square do. Undoing lids from jars when you have arthritis hands... ). But many, many DIY folk think that filters need to be TIGHT.

[QUOTE
I think the manufacturers that have the filter thread down usually use filters with both an anti drain back ( unfiltered oil )valve as well as an anti syphon ( filtered oil side ) valve[/QUOTE]

Actually Anti Drain Back + Anti Syphon is the correct spec for the Td5, it is what I have always used and I will continue the same way. If Mario couldn’t supply a MAHLE filter my backstop was RYCO Z614 which is the same valve spec. When I finish the installation I will use a larger capacity RYCO filter of the same valve spec - the Z423. Spillage was not so much a problem ( there’s always some spillage anyway) my problem was access, cos i have hands that look like and are about as dexterous as a monkey’s foot . Increased oil capacity is a plus I think, and I’m not expecting oil and filter changes to be more messy than previous. Time will tell though…
Rob

Originally Posted by discorevy

Yep, they can be a bear to get the converter home.

I should have got on here earlier to tell you that you could have torqued the output bolt by removing the TC top plate, sorry.

I have the luxury of a hoist so the box is tilted back to stop the converter falling out but maybe fishing line that can be removed after it's home?.

What will make life easier to fit it though, is to take the starter motor stud out and refit it after the box is home.

Tie the oil pressure wire and Crank sensor out of the way.

28mm hole saw for the bell housing and you WILL want a straight 13mm ratchet spanner and a thin long pair of long nose pliers.

Don't tighten the Torque converter bolts till they're all in, then use a large screwdriver levering between the inspection hole and the ring gear to tighten.

I don't think you will leave the stock tune in for too long after it's on the road.

Have fun.

Have swapped emails with TCT in Melbourne this past week, just sourcing TD5 and V8 TC's for them atm so will come back to these notes after, sans the hole cutting, hopefully.

Originally Posted by rick130

Have swapped emails with TCT in Melbourne this past week, just sourcing TD5 and V8 TC's for them atm so will come back to these notes after, sans the hole cutting, hopefully.

Do they morph the TD5 and V8 converters so you can still use the 3 bolt flex plate Rick?

Yes they do my mate has had it done $1k

Dropped my v8 Tc last week to to TCT one of the worst experiences I have ever had

Got 3 different quotes from them for the same work and a lead time of 6-8 weeks

Also the Indian there told me I had to measure multiple stuff before giving them the v8 TC from a d2 even tho I told them I have a 4 bolt flex plate from Ashcroft to bolt up to the td5 auto

Not today but a few days ago.

Repaired my trans cooler lines that got smashed by a wayward drive shaft... I used some hydraulic fittings and Parker Push Lok hose, good for 400psi and 150C so should be covered there. Also dropped off the S/H trans to a shop to swap over the output shaft (was a V8 and need to be TD5) looking like it will cost about $1500+ in labor (quotes $140 per hour and about 10-12 hours work) plus new input and output seals, hopefully not much else as it was a good working trans prior to a roll over.....

As side note I found it had LRS engraved on the side of the box (with a hand held engraver) not sure if this a good thing or not, hopefully it means it has been over hauled at some stage, the guy I bought it off didn't know.

The trans will be about 6-8 weeks away so I will have time to get an Ashcroft kit to suit the 4 bolt torque converter, drop the sump and reseal (check the oil pump bolt and pressure relief bolt while I'm there) the turbo oil drain is weeping and few other odds and sods. Will also have to get a H/D front drive shaft (one that has grease nipples that takes grease, not just pushed it out the side you can't see....) any recommendations?

The once the piggy bank recovers, a tune/remap will be on the cards along with a center muffler delete. If things go to plan, later this year we will be moving back to the Pilbara I will be adding an extra trans cooler as I want to be looking after this setup as best I can

cheers

Redd

Originally Posted by Reddirt204

Will also have to get a H/D front drive shaft (one that has grease nipples that takes grease, not just pushed it out the side you can't see....) any recommendations? once the piggy bank recovers a lot,

One recommendation would of course be Tom Woods.