Thread: Help needed in Halls creek (again)

Hope you manage to sort your vehicle. I can't really help you as I'm locked into D1's, and I don't really take them far a field...have a Toyota for that

Jump ship/vehicle? There is this D2 for sale in Darwin $6 grand negotiable

https://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/larr...000/1156731349

From memory I think it was Halls Ck where my old employer booked a 4x4 for some staff. Got a call from staff when they arrived at Halls Ck: 'We're not taking this vehicle!!!'. No back window (a ute), bald tyres, bad steering, and broke down before they left town.

Hi all here's the update I got the limp home to clear last Friday so decided to get the hell out of Dodge Saturday, got to 10km south of Turkey creek and the caravan threw a wheel and took out the side of the van and almost rolled us. So went to call RAC for a tow and no coverage even with Telstra just after that a tow truck happened along. Anyway organised him to tow the van to Kununurra on his tilt tray ($1546.00) and set off in the Disco and you guessed it it went back into limp home mode! So we had to limp into Turkey creek and wait 6 hours for him to get back to put us on the back and into Kununurra (another $880.00)! On the plus side ran into a guy with a Disco2 at Turkey creek while we were waiting and used his Nanocom to get the fault code (P0722 stall speed monitoring) which in the RAVE manual says is the torque converter. I've talked to Rover tech in Perth and the best guess is ethier the torque converter wasn't seated properly when the other mechanic changed out the tranny and is dammaged or the solenoid pack is faulty due to the harness issues. If it's the torque converter I've dammaged it further by driving it and it needs replacing or the solenoid pack needs replacing I'm in a mind just to get another tranny from Triumph Rover shipped here and replace this one as each time I need parts it takes week to get here. The diffence in cost between a replacement tranny $950 + shipping and torque converter $500 and solenoid pack $200 + shipping is only acouple of hundred but the time it's a week for each item to get here. Plus changing out the tranny is going to be faster so it will save me money in the long term as it has to come out to inspect the torque converter then cost of repairs ect I feel it's better to put a known good one in and have peace of mind anybody have thoughts on this? This has been a nightmare trip financialy and stress wise so for the past week I've been trying to sort out RAC to get them to pay for the Disco towing, CIL to get the caravan towing paid for and repairs organised and waiting for Kununurra 4WD to get some time to fix the Disco. But on the up side Kununurra is a paradise the folks here at Ivanhoe village caravan park are wonderful even towed our van onto the site and set it up for us so when we arrived at 8.30pm were waiting to guide us in an make sure all was well we can't thank them enough.

P0722 - Torque converter slipping according to Rave

Presumably this indicates excessive engine revs vs output shaft speed. Google throws up no output speed sensor, so it might be an easyish fix - see below.

Does the speed match the revs? Does it seem like it's slipping? I guess the quick test may be to clear the faults, leave to warm up as best you can and then do a stall test to see if the TQ is slipping or not. Standard set up should see it stall out about 2900, significantly higher then indicates slippage.

If the revs are slipping then I'd be wondering about line pressure, there is a test port if you want to get a mechanic to read it, I think the numbers are somewhere for the different stages, not sure they are in rave.

Pressure might be lost from a heap of places - if the mechanic at Halls Creek had the valve block apart there looks to be a lot of places to not put an O ring back in place.
The other one, and terminal most likely, is to not have the torque converter seated properly when fitted - Ashcrofts reckons this breaks the oil pump almost immediately, but this is a land rover, one mode of failure is too simple, perhaps it has damaged but not destroyed the pump to reduce the supplied pressure. It could also be the pressure solenoid with the loom. Or maybe even reduced pressure due to a missing O ring on the filter.

I think, in this position, I'd be tempted to drop the sump off and remove any item that might have an o ring and replace/check. This might include the valve block coming off. You might need to check or replace the filter ideally. Then do the correct fill (to the fill plug off, to the fill plug while running and moved through all gears) and try it on a test drive to see if it's been fixed. The worst that happens is you break something and the tranny is scrap - which is where you are heading at the moment.

If there is no slippage it suggests the harness or speed sensor is damaged - it's then a case of checking that and locating a spare - I can check microcat and see if that part number is listed, otherwise it's a call to ZF or someone to get it sent.

Needless to say all this poking about in the gubbins is supposed to be done in sterile conditions - I guess that means you need to beg a bit of shed or garage time from someone or chance it in the dirt. If you go the dirt route then get a load of cling film for wrapping everything up - the ATF will eat it over a few days but it should last long enough.

TRS wouldn't be my first choice for a replacement transmission (keeping within the forum rules).... But for second hand parts they have a bit of a dominant position. You might want to look at ZF shipping a box from Sydney, I think it was about $3000 and they take the old one back. But that box should be A1 reconditioned, shipping time will be the same I'd guess.

I'm not sure you ever said, what exactly was the work that was carried out? I don't understand why anybody would be inside the gearbox to do anything more than a filter change unless they truly understood what they were doing. The ZF box isn't like a manual where it's a bunch of gears and alls good, you need lots of specialist items to do any real work in the auto which I can't imagine this muppet had. Clearly he had the box out - but why? If he was fiddling with the valve block then he didn't need to remove the box anyway!

Originally Posted by steve_a

P0722 - Torque converter slipping according to Rave

Presumably this indicates excessive engine revs vs output shaft speed. Google throws up no output speed sensor, so it might be an easyish fix - see below.

Does the speed match the revs? Does it seem like it's slipping? I guess the quick test may be to clear the faults, leave to warm up as best you can and then do a stall test to see if the TQ is slipping or not. Standard set up should see it stall out about 2900, significantly higher then indicates slippage.

If the revs are slipping then I'd be wondering about line pressure, there is a test port if you want to get a mechanic to read it, I think the numbers are somewhere for the different stages, not sure they are in rave.

Pressure might be lost from a heap of places - if the mechanic at Halls Creek had the valve block apart there looks to be a lot of places to not put an O ring back in place.
The other one, and terminal most likely, is to not have the torque converter seated properly when fitted - Ashcrofts reckons this breaks the oil pump almost immediately, but this is a land rover, one mode of failure is too simple, perhaps it has damaged but not destroyed the pump to reduce the supplied pressure. It could also be the pressure solenoid with the loom. Or maybe even reduced pressure due to a missing O ring on the filter.

I think, in this position, I'd be tempted to drop the sump off and remove any item that might have an o ring and replace/check. This might include the valve block coming off. You might need to check or replace the filter ideally. Then do the correct fill (to the fill plug off, to the fill plug while running and moved through all gears) and try it on a test drive to see if it's been fixed. The worst that happens is you break something and the tranny is scrap - which is where you are heading at the moment.

If there is no slippage it suggests the harness or speed sensor is damaged - it's then a case of checking that and locating a spare - I can check microcat and see if that part number is listed, otherwise it's a call to ZF or someone to get it sent.

Needless to say all this poking about in the gubbins is supposed to be done in sterile conditions - I guess that means you need to beg a bit of shed or garage time from someone or chance it in the dirt. If you go the dirt route then get a load of cling film for wrapping everything up - the ATF will eat it over a few days but it should last long enough.

TRS wouldn't be my first choice for a replacement transmission (keeping within the forum rules).... But for second hand parts they have a bit of a dominant position. You might want to look at ZF shipping a box from Sydney, I think it was about $3000 and they take the old one back. But that box should be A1 reconditioned, shipping time will be the same I'd guess.

I'm not sure you ever said, what exactly was the work that was carried out? I don't understand why anybody would be inside the gearbox to do anything more than a filter change unless they truly understood what they were doing. The ZF box isn't like a manual where it's a bunch of gears and alls good, you need lots of specialist items to do any real work in the auto which I can't imagine this muppet had. Clearly he had the box out - but why? If he was fiddling with the valve block then he didn't need to remove the box anyway!

Thanks Steve all very good suggestions unfortunately the caravan park rules are no mechanical repairs on park grounds, no workshop or hard stand access and I have limited tools & equip. To boot I'm limited to being able to do light work as I'm recovering from cancer treatment so I'll try the one's I can do the rest will have to be done by the mechanic(s). But at $140/hr and there is still no scan tool handy that's going to be an expensive excersize financialy and time wise as each part they discover that they need to replace will take 1 week plus to get here even by express post. That's 1 more week of caravan park fees $50/day plus car rental $50 - $80/day plus repair cost(?) and thats if it's only a switch or solenoid pack part if that dosn't fix the issue and it's the torque converter add $600 and labour $800 plus another week of living costs. Getting another tranny complete with torque converter with warranty shipped here $1200 + labour $800 and 1 week of living costs and guranteed on the road after one day that might be the better option if not initally the cheapest.

Fitting the transmission to the TConverter is an EXACT science Adrian,,
measurements ( yes you need to measure--) are in The Good Oil Forum,,
joining Auto to Torque Convertor correctly

Originally Posted by Pedro_The_Swift

Fitting the transmission to the TConverter is an EXACT science Adrian,,
measurements ( yes you need to measure--) are in The Good Oil Forum,,
joining Auto to Torque Convertor correctly

Yes I know it's a difficult exacting job with big problems if it's not done correctly which may have been another problem caused by the numbnuts mechanic in Halls creek I just don't know if I can trust this tranny after what he's done to it. I can't do the work myself as I normally would have done before so I'll have to trust the guy's at Kununurra 4WD to do the right thing and I feel replacing the tranny complete with torque converter should eliminate all of his mistakes. I know it is the most expensive option initally but may be the most cost effective in the long term as any investigations into this one will cost $140/hr plus parts which take at least a week to get here. At least these guy's present as professional competent mechanics who do reaserch before commencing a job not the "workshop manual! I don't need no stinking workshop manual!" Attitude I got in Halls creek!

I'd get a reco box and TC.
Personally I wouldn't go 2nd hand unless evidence of true low kms or rebuild receipt AND I trusted the source of that info.

Originally Posted by AdrianS

Thanks Steve all very good suggestions unfortunately the caravan park rules are no mechanical repairs on park grounds, no workshop or hard stand access and I have limited tools & equip. To boot I'm limited to being able to do light work as I'm recovering from cancer treatment so I'll try the one's I can do the rest will have to be done by the mechanic(s). But at $140/hr and there is still no scan tool handy that's going to be an expensive excersize financialy and time wise as each part they discover that they need to replace will take 1 week plus to get here even by express post. That's 1 more week of caravan park fees $50/day plus car rental $50 - $80/day plus repair cost(?) and thats if it's only a switch or solenoid pack part if that dosn't fix the issue and it's the torque converter add $600 and labour $800 plus another week of living costs. Getting another tranny complete with torque converter with warranty shipped here $1200 + labour $800 and 1 week of living costs and guranteed on the road after one day that might be the better option if not initally the cheapest.

I thought you might be struggling with the physical side, I'd noticed another of the posts where you mentioned it. To top it off about the caravan park rules, sucks.

Here's the contact details for ZF in Sydney, easier for us to find stuff than your internet. They will need the serial number of the box (identifies the exact version) to give you an idea of replacement.
You will want to get a new rear input seal for the transfer box at the same time ideally. Give them a call first thing on Monday to get a price and timing - you've seriously nothing to lose in comparison to straight second hand job. The rules of forum state we are not allowed to bad mouth companies, therefore I can't state one way or another about what the second hand options are like. However, most second parts places will do no more than take a box out, pressure wash and send up. There will be no idea most likely of the actual condition other than the odometer reading of the donor vehicle, I would be suspicious of statements to the contrary unless you get a box from a movable vehicle or the owner of the car.
However, if ZF is too expensive then I guess 2nd hand is the only option.

You are 36h drive for me otherwise I'd head up to lend a hand - feeling for you mate! Is it insured for a mysterious and unfortunate fire?

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