Thread: What happened to your D3/D4 today?

Originally Posted by Tombie

You spray it regularly with dry lube and graphite.

This is important with all mechanical locks. Given a lock is open where it accepts a key it is also open to foreign bodies. Any wet lube will trap and hold these, eventually causing the lock to bind. Even locks with shutters are vulnerable as dirt and crap enters with the key. And we all know that Aussie bulldust gets into everything.

Originally Posted by Tins

This is important with all mechanical locks. Given a lock is open where it accepts a key it is also open to foreign bodies. Any wet lube will trap and hold these, eventually causing the lock to bind. Even locks with shutters are vulnerable as dirt and crap enters with the key. And we all know that Aussie bulldust gets into everything.

It’s not the lock mechanism that is the issue, it’s the pin on the end that limits the mechanism’s movement. The lock itself wasn’t corroded, but the pin on the end was. You want something that forces its way through the lock to the pin at the end to prevent that corroding. See image above.

Originally Posted by DiscoJeffster

It’s not the lock mechanism that is the issue, it’s the pin on the end that limits the mechanism’s movement. The lock itself wasn’t corroded, but the pin on the end was. You want something that forces its way through the lock to the pin at the end to prevent that corroding. See image above.

Fair enough. I was responding to comments from Tombie and BradC. With that pin I reckon I'd use something like SteelSeal. It doesn't tend to be sticky once dry and sticks around for longer than say WD.

Originally Posted by Tins

Fair enough. I was responding to comments from Tombie and BradC. With that pin I reckon I'd use something like SteelSeal. It doesn't tend to be sticky once dry and sticks around for longer than say WD.

I think, as Tombie said, the best approach is to remove the thing when it’s not in use to avoid the corrosion that occurs. Alternativel, and also part of that part would be to remove it from the vehicle, spray copious amounts of corrosion preventing lube into the locking mechanism while the things is on its end so the lube flows down to the pin and covers it. Do this annually and you’d probably avoid the issue. Another annual task for the list

Even regularly exercising the lock would help to remove some corrosion

Originally Posted by Airmech953

I loaned my 05 TDV6 to my son a couple of days ago. I got it back with an oily film over the tailgate and rear window. After washing the car I went to drive it and saw the oil light flicker and heard the warning chime, so I abandoned the drive and went straight to the shed. Turns out the crankshaft oil seal has failed after only 10000km or so. now I have to strip the front of the engine again - hopefully the crankshaft seal surface isn't damaged.

I've heard the crank stub is a bit soft and after 250 000km's or so a ridge might be felt, in which case the remedy seems to be to fit a seal with a spring to help it conform to the shaft better than just the neoprene or whatever the original seal is made of.

Spotted at Perth airport today (not mine). Interesting mods











LS swap would be fruity

Originally Posted by RANDLOVER

I've heard the crank stub is a bit soft and after 250 000km's or so a ridge might be felt, in which case the remedy seems to be to fit a seal with a spring to help it conform to the shaft better than just the neoprene or whatever the original seal is made of.

Thanks for the tip. the shaft was ok - no ridge. the seal had migrated out of it's housing. I fitted the new seal in with some Loctite, hopefully it stays put.

Originally Posted by PerthDisco

Spotted at Perth airport today (not mine). Interesting mods











LS swap would be fruity

Familiar mods! Doubt it has the LS


Mine just runs a 48” curved LED bar