Thread: What happened to your D3/D4 today?

Originally Posted by Tombie

What firmware is your Gap tool running?

Ok, so with help from Pat I got it done. The issue I was having (not yet resolved) was I couldn’t do them all at once without an error. Doing them singularly also wasn’t working because the gap tool wasn’t updating the values on screen and it would keep setting them back.

So, it turns out the tool gets the injector codes from reading the ECU Info. After each injector program I went in and re-read the ECU info and the new injector codes would show. One by one repeating this I got them all coded.

I still need to get number three changed but the improvement is awesome. It also resolved my diesel pre-ignition knocking on light throttle that has been plaguing me for some time.

Originally Posted by DiscoDB

By comparison the bonnet decal is much easier - especially as you can apply wet. The roof decal though needs to be applied dry and is easy to mess up. I actually practiced with a cheap vinyl first before then removing and using a high quality Avery Dennison wrap.

Why not wet? I’ve done the bonnet too (wet) and want to do D3 roof as it’s badly faded.

Cheers,
Scott

Well the old girl is finally running as it should be with no more "Restricted Performance" messages and clouds of black smoke when I boot it.

Full log book service
EGR Blanks fitted and surplus pipes removed
BAS patches x 2 run
Replace Air intake hoses
Replace Intercooler hose
Replace Manifold pressure sensor

and it's running better than it ever has.

IMG_2068.jpg

Originally Posted by LRD414

Why not wet? I’ve done the bonnet too (wet) and want to do D3 roof as it’s badly faded.

Cheers,
Scott

Based on my very very limited experience, the challenge with a wet install is dealing with the mix of concave and convex surfaces around the start and end of the ridge lines.

Wet is ideal for flat surfaces which don’t need any stretching or shrinking. If you do end up stretching too much, it can be harder to get it to stick into position.

Dry is ideal for compound surfaces where you can apply some pre-tension to remove all the wrinkles, then stretch it around the ridges, and then some heat to shrink any areas that have been over-stretched. Once pressed down then post-heat the vinyl to set in the new shape.

If you are trying to cover the ridges fully including the transitions back to the flat surface, you need the vinyl to stretch over the ridges and shrink over the flat section. I couldn’t work out how to achieve this when wet without more practice but it may be possible with a quality vinyl.

If you order some excess material you could always try wet first over say the front section where the ridges start, and if this works well then this will give you the confidence to do fully over the rear 3/4 section.

Plus if you limited the length of the wrap to be just shorter than the length of the ridges then you won’t have to deal with the transitions at the ends and this probably would be easy to apply wet.

If doing wet, I would start at the centre section and slowly work my way outwards - repositioning the vinyl after each section between the ridge lines is done to remove any stretching or bunching.

And I gave up trying to cover the plastic plug/cover at the rear and instead carefully cut around this after getting it almost right. If applying wet you can make up a template and cut this out first and use this to then initially position the vinyl.

Got the final injector out with a slide hammer and a lot of work. Trouble is, now the car won’t go.

I’m hoping it’s the battery as it was struggling to crank effectively while the system was pressurising.

On charge and new SSB ordered.

Originally Posted by DiscoJeffster

Got the final injector out with a slide hammer and a lot of work. Trouble is, now the car won’t go.

I’m hoping it’s the battery as it was struggling to crank effectively while the system was pressurising.

On charge and new SSB ordered.

Hope you get it sorted DJ. I've got injectors in the budget too, probably get Dovers to do it next year some time. BTW, they're happy to fit owner supplied parts as long as they're genuine LR (at least they did with my engine mounts).

Did 3rd gearbox oil change myself this time at 251k kms. Did the Filo method first and got about 5 litres from the transmission cooler line (very quickly). Then dropped my pan with no drain plug which had a small manageable amount in it. So far no mess. Man, getting at those end bolts is a fiddle as even a small socket will not fit with a torx bit in it. Replaced mechatronics seal and pan gasket and filter. Refill was easy and topping off took quite a bit more fluid once running at temp.

I’ve noticed just a very slight clunk sensation creeping in when the box goes back into first coming to a stop and not sure that’s been fixed on first drive. Otherwise, everything still works fine.

I still have the balance of 10 litres of LG6 so next oil change will pump out the same amount at the radiator into a measuring can and top off at the gearbox. Seems the best method for pans without drain plugs.

Note - the clunk 2-1 I’ve discovered is the mechatronic seal wear. I’ll have to pull it apart again and do those items as part of the double flush.

Originally Posted by DiscoJeffster

Got the final injector out with a slide hammer and a lot of work. Trouble is, now the car won’t go.

I’m hoping it’s the battery as it was struggling to crank effectively while the system was pressurising.

On charge and new SSB ordered.

And she runs again, thank **** for that!

Charged overnight. I then hard connected my second battery to the main via a jump cable to avoid low voltage isolation. This was enough to keep everything alive while the HPFP and injection circuits replenished. About 10 seconds of cranking and it came alive.

I’ve ordered a new SSB main overnight direct from SSB. My Varta was nearly 5 years old.