My old refrigeration teacher would go thru to make sure you had the correct gauges for refrigerant drill followed buy every other not pumped down, failed sensor reading etc etc but if any refrigerant gauges are reading low then yes you have an issue..
When you are used to working with systems that hold 500kgs + of refrigerant it’s a learning curve for low capacity systems and I am sure your diagnosis is correct in this case , sadly my curious mind find a total loss of refrigerant a rare situation especially if you haven’t been playing around with any major parts of the system
Cheers Bulletman
Yes but. With rare exception systems that hold 500kg don’t have multiple o-ring/clamp seals on the pipe work and an open drive compressor with a rotating mechanical seal (at least these days). Vehicles are a harsh environment and the pipe work seals are robust but subject to failure. Particularly anything Ford had anything to do with. Couple that with 525g of gas and there’s bugger all reserve. 2kg of R12 lasted a lot longer with a small leak.
Anyway, if the gap indicates low pressure it’s either a failed high side sensor or a leak. I know which one I’d be wagering. That’s like asking “HPFP or faulty rail sensor”….
Ahh yes, I know all about the HPFP and fuel rail sensor.. purchased a new sensor which threw even more faults after being installed, so a HPFP plus a LPFP later installed the original sensor out of frustration and the car ran fine again.
The HPFP was definitely suspect but I think the LPFP was still ok but guess it was a lesson learnt the hard way.
Bulletman
Shane
2005 D3 TDV6 loaded to the brim with 4 kids!
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/members-rides/220914-too-many-defender-write-ups-here-time-d3.html
Wiper motor replaced thanks Dave (Airmech) ,gear is stuffed.
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MY08 TDV6 SE D3- permagrin ooh yeah
2004 Jayco Freedom tin tent
1998 Triumph Daytona T595
1974 VW Kombi bus
1958 Holden FC special sedan
Working through getting the correct discs for the rear and decided to also replace the park brake shoes. Quote from the dealer just shy of $500. Bendix shoes from Supercheap $68. I not always cheap, but in this case I know which way I’m going.
It also seems that following the Bodsy Brake routine leaves the park brake shoes just slightly skimming the disc based on the wear on the inside of my discs which is quite pronounced. I then took a look at the workshop manual and it specifies to back the pads off further than the Bible says which might explain that. It also explains to me why it needs annual adjustment given the drag and pad/disc wear. And no, I don’t use drive off mode and use my park brake each time.
2010 TDV6 3.0L Discovery 4 HSE
2007 Audi RS4 (B7)
For the park brake I don't see why you wouldn't use the cheap version. All it has to do is keep the car stationary and doesn't really do any "braking" as such. When I burnt out my LHS rear pads due to the EPB locking up I got my shoes, rotors and pads from Rovacraft in Bassendean and from memory they supplied RDA parts
Rod
D4 MY16 5 seat TDV6 - LLAMS, Custom Drawers, OL Bar, Toyo Open Country, GOE Rims, Lithium DBS, eDiff, OA Long Range Tank, GAP Tool, Tracklander rack, Mitch Hitch, TPMS & Safari Snorkel
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