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Thread: Tiny bit excited

  1. #441
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    Joe, you need a harmonic balancer puller to remove the balancer. It uses the three bolt threads in the front. The threads are 3/8 unf. Its basicly a press fit With a big hammer onto the crank shaft. You won't lever it off at all with the puller in the pic, you will destroy it if you try. Looking good mate. Cheers.

  2. #442
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    As Rod said you need the correct harmonic balancer puller to make it an easy job. When you do get it off & you fit the new one using a large hammer & a block of hard wood ( they are a very tight fit on the crankshaft ) a smear of oil on the crankshaft will make it easer to fit. you will need the water pump in place with the water pump pulley & alternator fitted so you can line the pullies up . If they are not lined up they will damage the fan belt or the belt will keep coming off.
    Make sure you replace the oil seal as well, if you don't & the seal leaks it will soon destroy the rubber in the new balancer.

  3. #443
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    new puller on order

    1 looked what turned up, well i collected some sunraysia wheels and tyres x5 for the S1, yes i do have the original rims but wanted something bigger, just hope the offset is ok (came off a defender i think)
    2 size of tyres are about the same size as 750x16
    3 full gasket set turned up
    4 clutch n brake pedals painted but may paint again in shiny black not mat
    5 alternator bracket painted fitted, exhaust gasket in place and engine mount
    6 damage trying to pull harmonic balancer off, lesson learnt, could i just alum weld this up, it only serves to protect the timing chain (i think)
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    Land Rover

  4. #444
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    more updates

    1 the inside of the engine with my magnet rod, lots of rusted metal came out, then did a water flush to clean
    2 with the wash out to clean as best i could
    3 alternator bracket painted
    4 water cover fitted, forgot the thermostat damn. does the gasket need any glue or can i dry fit the gaskets on
    5 the brake line conjunction fitted loosely

    for the life of me could not find the lower front cover, looked high and low no where to be seen. loosened off the bolts for the timing cover as well in prep for restoring or fitting another unit
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    Land Rover

  5. #445
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    Quote Originally Posted by shamirj View Post
    1 looked what turned up, well i collected some sunraysia wheels and tyres x5 for the S1, yes i do have the original rims but wanted something bigger, just hope the offset is ok (came off a defender i think)
    2 size of tyres are about the same size as 750x16
    3 full gasket set turned up
    4 clutch n brake pedals painted but may paint again in shiny black not mat
    5 alternator bracket painted fitted, exhaust gasket in place and engine mount
    6 damage trying to pull harmonic balancer off, lesson learnt, could i just alum weld this up, it only serves to protect the timing chain (i think)
    As I said before get your self the correct puller for the harmonic balancer will save your self a lot of time & more damage , they are not that expensive. You could weld it but you need to remove it to make sure the bit pushed inside is not rubbing on the chain. You would be better off getting a 2nd hand one , Holden timing covers will be a dime a dozen that way you will not get any distortion of the cover which will cause an oil leak or if you don't get a good weld that could leak also. You don't want any leaks other wise it will destroy the rubber in the harmonic balancer. 300px-LitchBal2.jpg If you don't want to spend the around $30 to buy a puller you could make one , you just need a solid bit of plate drill 3 holes in it tap a thread in the centre hole to suit a large bolt with thread the full length . Grind a point on the bolt & 3 bolts that will screw into the 3 holes in the balancer.

    I was incorrect the Holden red motor dose not have a chain but you will need to make sure the gear is not rubbing on the cover.

  6. #446
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    Just get another RED motor timing cover. Black motor has different timing marks and so do some blue covers. There is a set of timing GEARS inside the cover. If your engine has a fibre gear then you might consider fitting an alloy one. Might also pay to replace the sump gasket when you remove the timing cover. Have you checked the welch plugs? If they are brass then leave them. If they are steel might also consider replacing them with brass ones especially the rear plug. Not the cam plug. Don't forget the 3 x 3/4" ones in the head behind the manifolds. Have fun. Cheers Rod

  7. #447
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    As Rod said check the welch plugs with your magnetic to see if they are steel. removing them will also make it much easer to clean all the scale out of the water jackets. Also it would pay you to do the sump gasket as you will disturb it when you remove the timing cover . It will also have the added advantage that you will be able to clean all the sludge out of the sump. As well as the ones behind the manifold gasket I think there may be welch plugs at the back end of the motor & head but don't quote me on that they are easer to do now than once the motor is in the vehicle.

  8. #448
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    yep my 149 Holden in a 55 model got a leak from the welch plug in the back of the block. Definitely do that one

  9. #449
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    more updates

    1. should this relay arm be movable by hand, seems pretty tight to me, should it not freely move from side to side as nothing is attached to it? has no oil in it at present but even then should freely move i would think

    2. starting with the brake lines and trying to figure out which pipe goes where, hoping this union joint is the correct way up, will need to check my pics before dismantling.
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    Land Rover

  10. #450
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    The arm should be a tight fit , either use a small puller or some sort of wedge in the slot ( large screw driver , cold chisel ) to spread it slightly . Make sure you put some centre pop marks in the arm & shaft so you refit it in the correct position . Same with the bottom one.
    Also make sure you fit it the correct way up.

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