Thread: Tiny bit excited

pic1 spare firewall which came with LR and attached mudgaurd

pic2 after some time separation of the two

pic3 firewall outside shot

pic4 firewall free standing inside shot

pic1 & pic2 rear view and front view of steering wheel, last bit to come off the spare firewall, then can decide what to do with the spare firewall. my question is how do i remove the steering wheel, there is no centre nut as such and the rear sideward nut was missing holding onto the shaft, have squirted wd40, do i simply hammer out the wheel? thx

Don't you love a kid with a new toy - the enthusiasm is infectious

Well done - keep up the good work - you can come around and start work on my Series 1s anytime you want.

Garry

pic1 cleaned up two more rims and primed only the face

pic2 2nd rim cleaned and primed only the face, the inner where the tubes were are pretty bad.

pic3 proof its a swb rim, i have 3 now somewhat primed all with matching numbers

pic4 my only concern when fitting new tyres to ask for inner tubes or not due to this, or should i just weld up and hope the rim will hold air? this has been caused by the rust and then the subsequent cleaning the area exposing very thin metal in places. suggestions anyone?

Streering wheel - I'm pretty certain the pinch bolt must be removed - it engages a groove round the splines.

After you remove the pinch bolt you will need to drive a wedge into the slot to expand the hub slightly . A bit of RP7 would also help.

pic1 next to steering relay two small holes which need to be welded up

pic2 p/s top of chassis rail, holes which held the radiator in place needs welding up

pic3 top rail welded up, notice 3 additional holes on side support which needs welding up, so many holes

pic4 ground, etched and primed, though still minor imperfections which i re did again

pic5 d/s relay side centre hole I think is standard for something, can someone please confirm so i don't weld up, there is one hole per side which goes right thru to the other side, not sure what its for ?

these are the smallest of the holes in the chassis so easy to weld up dreading the bigger holes to come...

pic1 - front cross member prepared for cutting in half, the one and only chance to cut in the right section, no 2nd chances here, LR came with spare front crossmember

pic2 - the subsequent cut

pic3 - temp fitted to the chassis to check for clearances and general fit, not too bad, the harder part for me anyway is the welding, which should look half professional