Raining....well get stuck into it boy..you have deadline to adhere to get to it..hope it all works out for youI have my fingers and toes crossed for you
Mrs hh![]()
well since we are flooded in this weekend means that all we can do is my series one project.and i only have 10 weeks left and this is what i have to do
chassis repaired and painted
firewall soda blasted and painted
diffs rebuilt
brakes
steering
suspension
gearbox
engine
and this is where i am at
chassis repaired nearly ready to be painted
diffs pulled apart just need to do the bearings and seals have done a practice run on one
brakes no work
steering just pulled apart but i shouldnt take to long to do that
suspension ^as above
gearbox finished
engine is stripped and at the engine place still waiting to here back
so im starting to get worried i wont finish.my goal is that i can drive it at least 10 metres forward and back if i dont get this then i have failed![]()
Raining....well get stuck into it boy..you have deadline to adhere to get to it..hope it all works out for youI have my fingers and toes crossed for you
Mrs hh![]()
Series Landy Rescue
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'51 80", Discovery 2, Defender 130, 101 FC + 20 other Land Rover vehicles
well tomorrows plan is to finish off sandling the chassis and to do the firewall.i am doing a bit of diff centre work at school started today
Good Luck smurf at singleton!, I hope things fall into place to make the deadline............every spare moment...........
also have fingers and toes AND EYES crossed for you!!
digger
PS, Please hurry and finish its hard driving like this!
(REMLR 235/MVCA 9) 80" -'49.(RUST), -'50 & '52. (53-parts) 88" -57 s1, -'63 -s2a -GS x 2-"Horrie"-112-769, "Vet"-112-429(-Vietnam-PRE 1ATF '65) ('66, s2a-as UN CIVPOL), Hans '73- s3 109" '56 s1 x2 77- s3 van (gone)& '12- 110
lol im trying plans are if we get good weather to paint the chassis tomorow.the wire whell is getting stuffed and spitting wire at me to much so i had to give it a rest and use a flappy wheel in a drill on the chassis.im bringing it back to bare metal do i have to do this or get i just bring it back to the undercoat?
thanks Tony aka smurf
A lot of work there Tony, but I'm sure you're up to the task......so get to it.![]()
Numpty
Thomas - 1955 Series 1 107" Truck Cab
Leon - 1957 Series 1 88" Soft Top
Lewis - 1963 Series 11A ex Mil Gunbuggy
Teddy5 - 2001 Ex Telstra Big Cab Td5
Betsy - 1963 Series 11A ex Mil GS
REMLR No 143
ok so i have tried wire wheel on the chassis and i have tried flappy wheel and now sandblasting and this is my reccomendations where there is big flat areas with no obsticals use the wire wheel any where else use the sand blaster the sandblasting is working fairly well but is extremely slow. i will get some photos up during the week,getting a bit tired now.plans are probably do an hour of sandblasting every afternoon during the week and then pain next weekend.just for those people that are interested when i blow my nose its blackish so respirator on now as well as a beanie to block the sand from getting in my ears and a welding helmet on to protect my face
Tony,
You seem to now be champion in lots of game sites as per the right hand side of your display! maybe you are spending too much time on that and not enough on the restoration?
If its green when you blow your nose, and its land-rover green, remember that old stuff contains lead, so always wear that respirator.
Ear muffs keep out most of the sand and tight fitting goggles are more comfortable than the welding mask?
So what happens in 10 weeks time, exams or more party's every weekend?
I dont think its really necessary to take the chassis back to bare metal, just removing all loose paint and rust is all that is required.
The old paint if it is sound (not loose or flaky) will help the new undercoat to stick. (just my opinion).
Be careful if you are going to reassemble the diffs.
The crown wheel and pinion have to be set up for the correct mesh and that is really a specialist field, needing special measuring instruments. Fitting bearings an seals are all part of the fit up and I would recommend leaving it all to a Differential axle workshop.
You have done all the hard work in disassembly and cleaning and painting, obtaining all the required parts, so the final reassembly is a very small cost/part of the overall job.
The brakes probably need the cylinder honing or new S/Steel cylinders inserts if you have the $$$$. Exchange shoes are available over the counter as are the rubbers sets.
So go for GOLD, you are doing a fantastic job and every one is cheering,you on![]()
Have you tried asking your brother to come over and give you a hand?
Two working on a job always makes it go better and 2 heads are better than one. Even if you are blowing black stuff and regurgitating sandy green gilberts, and going deaf with all the noise?
Peter
my brothers are to busy and not into this sort of stuff.i am doing the diffs at school so ill see what happens i might just but new brake cylinders and be done with it.i would have thought i wouldnt have to bring it back to bare metal either,thanks for the help peter
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