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Thread: Bought a series2... I think.

  1. #121
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Central Coast NSW
    Posts
    1,508
    If you do test it out, apparently using water as a lubricant gets a better finish. I'm interested to know how you go.

    I have heard of people painting their series with a paint roller, so that's always an option
    '08 D3 4.0 V6 :) - 265/65/R17 on X5 rims.
    '72 88" S3 - 2.286 petrol - yet to go on it's first adventure
    GONE '96 D1 300Tdi - 2" lift, 32" tyres, HD rear axles, lockers :(

  2. #122
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    Westlake ,brisbane
    Posts
    1,752
    Quote Originally Posted by Disco-tastic View Post
    If you do test it out, apparently using water as a lubricant gets a better finish. I'm interested to know how you go.

    I have heard of people painting their series with a paint roller, so that's always an option
    A mate of mine is painting his S1 with a roller & fine brush, from the photo's he has sent me it's looking good.

  3. #123
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Location
    Rockhampton, QLD
    Posts
    321
    I was intending to paint the car using a roller. Mainly because everyone untold thought it was a silly idea, and unlike silly ideas. In the end undecided unwanted to own a compressor and the spray gun cost me $20 from bunnings. It's certain a ton faster to spray.
    2003 D2a TD5 Auto
    1960 Series 2, work in progress

  4. #124
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Location
    Rockhampton, QLD
    Posts
    321
    Quote Originally Posted by singlecell View Post
    I was intending to paint the car using a roller. Mainly because everyone untold thought it was a silly idea, and unlike silly ideas. In the end undecided unwanted to own a compressor and the spray gun cost me $20 from bunnings. It's certain a ton faster to spray.
    Dont know why my phone changed all the I's intos UNs.

    Anyway, found out why my fuel level wasnt reading...
    IMG_20180624_103518.jpg
    The float was seized into that position. I did clean it up and get it working, but Ill be replacing it anyway.
    2003 D2a TD5 Auto
    1960 Series 2, work in progress

  5. #125
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    Westlake ,brisbane
    Posts
    1,752
    I have trouble with mine on my 80" the float arm hits on the funnel neck /strainer , if I leave it out works ok , think I need to bend the arn a bit to clear.

  6. #126
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Location
    Rockhampton, QLD
    Posts
    321
    Quote Originally Posted by 1950landy View Post
    I have trouble with mine on my 80" the float arm hits on the funnel neck /strainer , if I leave it out works ok , think I need to bend the arn a bit to clear.
    When purchasing a new one you need to set the length of the float arm. Maybe yours was installed too long?

    Anyone able to tell me the path the Speedo cable is meant to be installed? Mine was just hanging randomly in the engine bay.

    Also, when setting up the brakes. Should the adjustment be able to stop the tyre from moving if tightened enough? When I fully tighten mine I can hear rubbing of the shoes but not enough to stop me from turning the tyre. It's the same on all 4 corners.
    2003 D2a TD5 Auto
    1960 Series 2, work in progress

  7. #127
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Central West NSW
    Posts
    21,299
    I can't help with path of the speedo cable I'm afraid - I have no idea whether mine is standard or not! When correctly adjusted, and after applying the brakes hard and releasing them, the shoes should not be touching the drums. If slacking off a notch results in excessive pedal free play, it suggests that either the adjuster is worn, with uneven notches, there is dirt inside the drum (clean it) or the lining is not accurately the same curvature as the drum (or, very unlikely, loose on the shoe).

    It is acceptable to have very light contact, and hope that it wears to a better fit, but in this case (good idea anyway) after adjustment, drive a couple of kilometres and check the temperature of the hubs (don't burn your hand!). This applies to the handbrake as well.

    Worth noting that several years ago I fitted new drums and shoes to the back of my 110 (same setup as Series). I had ongoing issues with the RH brake as you mention - either touching or excess free play. Eventually I realised the problem was the drum - the hole in the centre was not accurately concentric with the braking surface. Replaced the drum, no more issues.
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

  8. #128
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    Westlake ,brisbane
    Posts
    1,752
    That was one of the problems with the drums made in India. also out of round.

  9. #129
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Location
    Rockhampton, QLD
    Posts
    321
    What is hopefully the last of the parts I'll need turned up. Unfortunately the excitement was short lived. First I found the fuel gauge and temp gauge are slightly fatter than the two gauges I took out. So they don't really fit. I'll jam them on the back somehow though....
    Then I moved into the water pump and snapped a bloody bolt. Then to find a second bolt already broken and just stuck in with friction. The rest came out ok.
    Just had to out the tools down and walk away. Looks like a weekend job now.

    On another note. How is the front grill badge bolted to the car? I finally got one and can not figure how it bolts on. Unless your meant to jam your fingers through the grill and hold the nuts.
    2003 D2a TD5 Auto
    1960 Series 2, work in progress

  10. #130
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Central West NSW
    Posts
    21,299
    There are two large holes in the front panel these have 'speednuts' fitted in them - spring steel gadgets that clip into the front panel, and you just screw self tappers into them.
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

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