Thread: Bought a series2... I think.

Originally Posted by JDNSW

It is possible that the extra load of the speedo is causing slippage. This could be because the square in the speedo is worn (possible), the square in the drive gear is worn 9possible, but unlikely), one or both ends of the inner cable are not properly squared (possible, but unlikely), the inner cable is too short (possible, perhaps likely) or the drive gear on the output shaft is slipping because the nut on the output shaft is loose (likely).

Hope this helps.

I just changed the seal on the front output shaft yesterday and found the nut to be loose, so you may be onto something. Ill have to check the rear one this weekend.

Found the issue.
Inside the speedo itself, the spring tension holding the plate/needle back onto zero was too much. This was probably from me fixing it up a bit earlier on. I held the needle on zero and moving the plate back and forth a few times to adjusted the spring tension while I drove up the driveway until 15mph on my phone matched the speedo. Far from being a proper calibration but still it shows it all works now.

If you spring down the stop, and allow the needle to swing back towards zero, there is a tiny dot on the face that shows the correct position for the needle. Spring the stop down again, and move the needle past it and allow the stop back up.

John

So finally doing what in theory should be the second to last job. Rebuilding the swivel hubs. Disassembled one of them last night. Opened the kit to find in a serious derp moment of mine I didn't think the kit wouldn't come with the hub or axle seals. So they have been ordered. The uni joint on the axle feels good thank god. Hopefully, the other side is the same.

I would like to know though from others experiences. Is it better to rebuild it all on the car, attach the ball/seals first then putting it all together, or is it better to rebuild it on the workbench then bolt the whole thing onto the car?
IMG_20181101_190420.jpg

It is (a lot) easier to build it all on the workbench and then fit it - BUT - the completed assembly is awfully heavy and awkward to handle. Really need a second set of hands to lift it into place and guide the axle in.

I have always done it 'on the vehicle' for this reason. Another reason is that if you do it this way, you can avoid bleeding the brakes by just lifting the backing plate complete out of the way and hanging it on a bit of fencing wire out of the way (make sure no strain on the hose). Of course, if doing the brakes at the same time, this is irrelevant.

Another possible advantage, although not a significant one, is that you can put the wheel on and give it a spin to make sure the bearings are properly seated.

Originally Posted by JDNSW

It is (a lot) easier to build it all on the workbench and then fit it - BUT - the completed assembly is awfully heavy and awkward to handle. Really need a second set of hands to lift it into place and guide the axle in.

I have always done it 'on the vehicle' for this reason. Another reason is that if you do it this way, you can avoid bleeding the brakes by just lifting the backing plate complete out of the way and hanging it on a bit of fencing wire out of the way (make sure no strain on the hose). Of course, if doing the brakes at the same time, this is irrelevant.

Another possible advantage, although not a significant one, is that you can put the wheel on and give it a spin to make sure the bearings are properly seated.

I had totally forgotten I removed the brake assembly without disconnecting the lines! Ill have to rebuild it on the car.

All done! Filled with ep90 so if there are any leaks should know soon enough.

Don't forget to bend your lock tabs over, when you're ready of course