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Thread: Gilbert

  1. #461
    JDNSW's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by whitehillbilly64 View Post
    .....
    Do the Gaskets act like shims, or will it be ok ????
    ...
    whitehillbilly
    I am not sure how much end float is built in to the relay - there is no critical end trust other than the weight of the shaft and arms - and vertical movement is normally constrained by the friction of the split bushes against the body. If you assemble it without the bushes and the spring, but with the thrust washers, and it turns freely without gaskets, then there is no problem leaving them out, provided the joint is sealed. (I would make a paper gasket myself, but that is just me!)
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
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  2. #462
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    Relay oil seal.
    2x 1.125 x 1.500x 0.250. ( TC12043 )

    whitehillbilly

  3. #463
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    Chook bag method to release spring.
    Cable ties ( 8 ) to compress spring. First bush inserted, Hose clip firmly fitted.
    Cut cable ties, on opposite sides, when spring on tension, Tap in, Hose cli[p sliding off as Tapped in.

    whitehillbilly
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  4. #464
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    Thanks John.
    Am going to make two, just need to get some thin paper.
    Have to check the paper I have in the shed.

    whitehillbilly

  5. #465
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    0.4mm
    Just knocked up a couple whilst outside.

    whitehillbilly

  6. #466
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    What would you coat the Relay in before inserting into hole ????
    Seems to have a bit of room now all cleaned, surprised what gets in between the two over 50 yrs.
    Guess even a couple of wrap, up and down, of insulation tape, may help.
    Thanks

    whitehillbilly

  7. #467
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    Good Idea John.
    Assemble without springs or bushes, add steel and brass thrust washers bolt together and measure end float.
    Report back soon
    Thanks.

    whitehillbilly

  8. #468
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    I think that the reason the relays get stuck in the chassis is that the top is 'sort of' open, but the bottom is pretty much sealed by the locating ring. Get a bit of dust in, add water, and the bottom is completely sealed. The gap then fills up with a mixture of dust and water, to which is soon added rust.

    I would thoroughly paint both the chassis and the relay, and then add a generous coating of antiseize. It might be worth considering adding a drain hole in the locating ring, and poke a skewer up it from time to time.
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

  9. #469
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    Removable gearbox cross member finished.
    Plugged holes and swilled derust fluid. Once dry, tipped in some chassis black and swilled around.
    All nicely coated inside.
    Now on the two centre cross members.

    whitehillbilly
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  10. #470
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    Few more.

    whitehillbilly
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