Thread: Gilbert

Originally Posted by whitehillbilly64

Next Job.
Fit dissy drive gear, and grub screw.
I got hold of a Blue Leyland workshop manual. ( ebay, $5 plus postage )
So can I do the dissy drive with out the timing chain fitted ????
Set 'P' on cam sprocket to the stud hole.
Place in dissy drive as per manual, off set slot, on the outside.
Locate grub screw. ( how easy is it to do, any tips )
Should I use a little non permanent, thread lock on the grub screw threads ????
Thanks.

whitehillbilly64

Looking good Billy!
If you are talking about that long grub screw that screws in from the side of the block behind the oil filter housing you shouldn't need any Loctite on it. Once it is in situ it can't go anywhere after the oil filter housing is in place. If you are really worried it may work loose a tiny dot of a very weak "service removable" Loctite would be ok. I have had the experience of having to drill one out that had been Loctited in, then repair the thread with a Helicoil. It very time consuming and not a lot of fun, believe me.
Cheers, Mick.

Thanks Mick,
OK not thread locker. Wasn't sure how far it srewed in.
But what about fitting it.
Drive shaft in correct position, grub screw locating hole in correct position,
Then lower, ending up with the dissy drive in the correct position ????
Does the dissy drive just sit down on top of the drive shaft ????
Or is it not as hard as I am imagining.
Any tips.

whitehillbillies

Little rust in the front LH out rigger.
Then a big hole appeared with a pile of dirt next to my 100mm angle grinder.

whitehillbilly

You're supposed to use your angle grinder on steel and rust, not on dirt

So what's the damage?
Or are those photos showing the extent of it.

Rear cross member, Rh out rigger, 10 inches of the main chassis rails near the front out riggers on both sides.
I have to pick up a bare S111 SWB chassis, with less rust than mine, I hope. when I take to it with the flapper wheel, I will get a better idea. Its been painted with cold Gal I think. Protecting or hiding something !!!!
Maybe pics this weekend.

whitehillbilly

Doesn't sound like fun. Any chance of welding fresh metal in rather than getting a replacement chassis?

Agreed, you only have mild rust. We had one that when the body was removed the chassis fell in 2 just near the gearbox crossmember!!!

Are you sure it's painted with cold gal? there was a guy in Townsville I think back in the day that use to gal series chassiseses. Maybe it's real gal.... would be a shame to grind it all off; maybe use a hammer to tap around to see that it's as solid as it looks?

Gal chassis, fingers crossed.
With the fitment of the Holden Motor, the front brace, the one with the hole for the starter crank handle was removed and a 100x50 piece of steel put in.
The main reason for the chassis was its cheap, and has the front cross member and good steering assembly fitted.
Idea being cut and weld it in to make the front look original.
Also the front dumb irons have been changed and are really rough looking, on mine.
How many teeth on the starter motor pinion, on a Petrol 2 1/4 motor.
Thanks for the input.

whitehillbilly