Bit more Gilbert progress.
Holden Engine out.
whitehillbilly
Bit more Gilbert progress.
Holden Engine out.
whitehillbilly
Took some pics of the Radiator attachment.
How is the series 3 radiator fixed.
The welded panel has 3 fixing bolts either side.
The radiator is held within its own bracket, then bolted either side to the panel.
Pics please.
Only have the front panel and grill, trying to replace bits, removed on fitting the Holden Motor.
Thanks
whitehillbilly
Left the 15AC on the SOLD Holden motor.
Trolled through the Darkest Corners of the local wrecking yard and The lucas 127 or ARC alternator didn't turn up, It was a bit scarry out there.
So many Bosch ones hanging, what one of these, is a direct, fit, No Mods????
What vehicles did they fit ???? What serial No ????
What regulator, internal or external ones.
whitehillbilly
Thanks Neil.
Get some idea now.
whitehillbilly
Well its time I got back to Gilbert, instead of playing with my other series 3.
Took the front section to my mate around the corner, to try and get the steering relay out. Even with a lot of oxy heat and a very large press we couldn't budge it. Things were bending and we had to press it back to shape.
Thought I would take advantage of it being 'Easy' to work on.
Does it matter it wont budge ???? Are they easy to pull apart still in the chassis ????
Got a couple of Relay seals from roverparts,
Thinking of making up new brake pipes. What do I need, as all the fittings on Gilbert have been apart, so could use those threaded parts.
Thanks
whitehillbilly
Getting it apart is easy, re-assembly is more difficult because you need to compress the spring.
Seals are available from any bearing joint, if Roverparts have supplied **itpart seals don't waste your time fitting them......
Details of the type of tool needed here :-
Isuzu C240 powered Series 3
If it still has clean oil inside (unlikely) just remove the top & bottom plates and fit new seals & gaskets.
On my Series I I just replaced the lower seal when the oil fell out.
1956 Series 1 with PTO welder (home made)
Colin
Last edited by gromit; 22nd May 2016 at 05:39 PM. Reason: More info added
'56 Series 1 with homemade welder
'65 Series IIa Dormobile
'70 SIIa GS
'76 SIII 88" (Isuzu C240)
'81 SIII FFR
'95 Defender Tanami
Motorcycles :-
Vincent Rapide, Panther M100, Norton BIG4, Electra & Navigator, Matchless G80C, Suzuki SV650
Billy I recently rebuilt one in the chassis as it was way too stubborn to move and I didn't want to damage the chassis around it.
I did make up the tool to compress the spring though as it would be a near impossible task without one. As grommet says, toss the kit seals and buy decent ones from your local bearing/seal man, they are only a few bucks.
Also have a good look at the shaft and put the end with best seal surface to the bottom.
The seals I got are branded KOK TC 12043 1.125 x 1.500 x .250.
Cheers, Mick.
1974 S3 88 Holden 186.
1971 S2A 88
1971 S2A 109 6 cyl. tray back.
1964 S2A 88 "Starfire Four" engine!
1972 S3 88 x 2
1959 S2 88 ARN 111-014
1959 S2 88 ARN 111-556
1988 Perentie 110 FFR ARN 48-728 steering now KLR PAS!
REMLR 88
1969 BSA Bantam B175
My Series 1 book describes how to compress the seal using a rod through the oil cross hole, but I suspect later relays don't have this since they discontinued the hole in the top.
John
John
JDNSW
1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol
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