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Thread: Gilbert

  1. #341
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    Quote Originally Posted by JDNSW View Post
    I'd be inclined to straighten it - there has been a discussion on how to do this in another build thread, but I can't remember which one.

    All Series Landrovers have serial numbers on both axle housings. They are not the same as the chassis number.

    John
    It was on Cracker's 107 rebuild thread.

  2. #342
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    Bit more Gilbert progress.
    Holden Engine out.

    whitehillbilly
    Attached Images Attached Images

  3. #343
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    Oct 2014
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    Took some pics of the Radiator attachment.
    How is the series 3 radiator fixed.
    The welded panel has 3 fixing bolts either side.
    The radiator is held within its own bracket, then bolted either side to the panel.
    Pics please.
    Only have the front panel and grill, trying to replace bits, removed on fitting the Holden Motor.
    Thanks

    whitehillbilly
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  4. #344
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    Left the 15AC on the SOLD Holden motor.
    Trolled through the Darkest Corners of the local wrecking yard and The lucas 127 or ARC alternator didn't turn up, It was a bit scarry out there.
    So many Bosch ones hanging, what one of these, is a direct, fit, No Mods????
    What vehicles did they fit ???? What serial No ????
    What regulator, internal or external ones.

    whitehillbilly

  5. #345
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    Radiator support

    Hello from Brisbane.

    Not sure if this is what you are looking for?









    Cheers,

    Neil

  6. #346
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    Thanks Neil.
    Get some idea now.

    whitehillbilly

  7. #347
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    Oct 2014
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    Well its time I got back to Gilbert, instead of playing with my other series 3.
    Took the front section to my mate around the corner, to try and get the steering relay out. Even with a lot of oxy heat and a very large press we couldn't budge it. Things were bending and we had to press it back to shape.
    Thought I would take advantage of it being 'Easy' to work on.
    Does it matter it wont budge ???? Are they easy to pull apart still in the chassis ????
    Got a couple of Relay seals from roverparts,
    Thinking of making up new brake pipes. What do I need, as all the fittings on Gilbert have been apart, so could use those threaded parts.
    Thanks

    whitehillbilly

  8. #348
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    Quote Originally Posted by whitehillbilly64 View Post
    Are they easy to pull apart still in the chassis ????
    Got a couple of Relay seals from roverparts,
    Getting it apart is easy, re-assembly is more difficult because you need to compress the spring.
    Seals are available from any bearing joint, if Roverparts have supplied **itpart seals don't waste your time fitting them......

    Details of the type of tool needed here :-
    http://www.aulro.com/afvb/other-powe...ml#post1923438

    If it still has clean oil inside (unlikely) just remove the top & bottom plates and fit new seals & gaskets.

    On my Series I I just replaced the lower seal when the oil fell out.
    http://www.aulro.com/afvb/series-i-l...ml#post1994239




    Colin
    Last edited by gromit; 22nd May 2016 at 05:39 PM. Reason: More info added
    '56 Series 1 with homemade welder
    '65 Series IIa Dormobile
    '70 SIIa GS
    '76 SIII 88" (Isuzu C240)
    '81 SIII FFR
    '95 Defender Tanami
    Motorcycles :-
    Vincent Rapide, Panther M100, Norton BIG4, Electra & Navigator, Matchless G80C, Suzuki SV650

  9. #349
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Irymple, Victoria, Australia
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    Quote Originally Posted by whitehillbilly64 View Post
    Well its time I got back to Gilbert, instead of playing with my other series 3.
    Took the front section to my mate around the corner, to try and get the steering relay out. Even with a lot of oxy heat and a very large press we couldn't budge it. Things were bending and we had to press it back to shape.
    Thought I would take advantage of it being 'Easy' to work on.
    Does it matter it wont budge ???? Are they easy to pull apart still in the chassis ????
    Got a couple of Relay seals from roverparts,
    Thinking of making up new brake pipes. What do I need, as all the fittings on Gilbert have been apart, so could use those threaded parts.
    Thanks

    whitehillbilly

    Billy I recently rebuilt one in the chassis as it was way too stubborn to move and I didn't want to damage the chassis around it.
    I did make up the tool to compress the spring though as it would be a near impossible task without one. As grommet says, toss the kit seals and buy decent ones from your local bearing/seal man, they are only a few bucks.
    Also have a good look at the shaft and put the end with best seal surface to the bottom.
    The seals I got are branded KOK TC 12043 1.125 x 1.500 x .250.


    Cheers, Mick.
    1974 S3 88 Holden 186.
    1971 S2A 88
    1971 S2A 109 6 cyl. tray back.
    1964 S2A 88 "Starfire Four" engine!
    1972 S3 88 x 2
    1959 S2 88 ARN 111-014
    1959 S2 88 ARN 111-556
    1988 Perentie 110 FFR ARN 48-728 steering now KLR PAS!
    REMLR 88
    1969 BSA Bantam B175

  10. #350
    JDNSW's Avatar
    JDNSW is offline RoverLord Silver Subscriber
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    My Series 1 book describes how to compress the seal using a rod through the oil cross hole, but I suspect later relays don't have this since they discontinued the hole in the top.

    John
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

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