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Thread: Gilbert

  1. #371
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    Quote Originally Posted by 67hardtop View Post


    the positive power comes in from the voltage stabiliser to the positive terminal on the gauge and the negative comes from the sender units, to the negative side of the gauge.


    apologies for billy goating , but If I have a voltage reading between the lug on top of the sender and chassis - that means I have a prob I guess?
    cheers,
    D
    1957 88 Petrol (Chumlee)
    1960 88 Petrol (Darwin)
    1975 88 Diesel (Mutley)

  2. #372
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    Maybe not but not impossible. The sender unit sends a variable earth signal back to the gauge which "tells" the needle where to be. Power should be constant on the positive side of the gauge (neg earth systems) approx 10 volts. With the sender unit disconnected u will get a voltage reading if u connect from sender unit wire to ground as ur then supplying the ground for the gauge, but with the wire connected, u should get a variable reading on a multimeter,(MM), not 12v but from 10v downwards with the MM connected to the positive side of the gauge, and the other end connected to the sender unit. If the sender isnt connected then u will get millivolt readings with the earth side of the MM connected to the sender unit wire, and the other on the positive side of the gauge.
    Im not a sparky but im sure ive described it right.

    Cheers Rod

    Sent from my GT-I9507 using AULRO mobile app

  3. #373
    JDNSW's Avatar
    JDNSW is offline RoverLord Silver Subscriber
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    One slight error. If the original voltage stabiliser is fitted, rather than be a constant 10v the voltage will actually switch on and off, with the voltage averaging 10V. The system gets away with this because the gauge has a very slow response (to stop the needle flopping about as the fuel sloshes). This behaviour is alarming if you measure the output voltage and don't know about it!

    You can get solid state stabilisers today that provide a constant 10V, but the original thermal ones are usually trouble free, and are actually adjustable. (Most problems with them that result in their replacement are actually bad connections on the earth of the regulator, and, of course, removing this and reconnecting it as you do when fitting the new one, fixes the problem!

    John
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

  4. #374
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    Thanks.


    I have no reading whatsoever on the gauge connector side . I can see a variable reading on the low level light connector side , so I an assuming that its had it.
    cheers,
    D
    1957 88 Petrol (Chumlee)
    1960 88 Petrol (Darwin)
    1975 88 Diesel (Mutley)

  5. #375
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    Thanks for all the input.
    Dark seems confused, as do I, but I do have to read something 100 times to sink in.
    At least Rod and JD seem to know what they are talking about.
    I think sometime Earth connections play more of an important role than others.'
    Sometimes I need pics and diagrams, as a visual learner !!!!!!


    whitehillbilly

  6. #376
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    Front end

    Working on the front end today.
    Internal sleeving, drilling outer chassis, then weld through hole.
    Not sure id I should box up the whole lot.
    Once I cut off Gilberts front end, it should tap right in
    weld the joint, then plate over the join. Fingers crossed.

    whitehillbilly.
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  7. #377
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    Patch

    had to put a patch on the back.

    whitehillbilly
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  8. #378
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    front end welded up
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  9. #379
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    finished rims,
    Just need a bit of weathering.
    Same rim numbers, but one appears spot welded, the other rivits, in the last pic. Didn't notice until gal was done.
    Any idea of the year of change????

    whitehillbilly
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  10. #380
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    Lookin good Billy.


    Cheers,
    1974 S3 88 Holden 186.
    1971 S2A 88
    1971 S2A 109 6 cyl. tray back.
    1964 S2A 88 "Starfire Four" engine!
    1972 S3 88 x 2
    1959 S2 88 ARN 111-014
    1959 S2 88 ARN 111-556
    1988 Perentie 110 FFR ARN 48-728 steering now KLR PAS!
    REMLR 88
    1969 BSA Bantam B175

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