What did you do on your Landy today?

Replaced all cooling system hoses [ except secret hose] , new radiator after old one failed the pressure test, cleaned intercooler with shellite, fixed power steering leak in low pressure hose [ new o'ring] ,removed drive belt & regreased idler pully bearings, checked H.B. , replaced missing bolt in coolant pipe system, took the time to scrub usually inaccessible part of engine bay with degreaser, treated the 4 bolt heads in the bottom of the battery box with kill rust after cleaning them, took for a test drive, held my breath..... ALL GOOD! so far Tomorrow I will get under & scrub all visible oil from the chassis with the intention of finding out if the power steering leak was the primary cause. This weekend I have a week of jobs for SWMBO to catch up on, no Bribie for the boys & I this weekend, Bob :p

I finished everything I needed for my RWC on the Disco today... quite happy with that!

And my suspension arrived from TerraFirma yesterday!

I fitted my new passenger sun visor which arrived from UK.

The D4 had a birthday,big clean in and out,after our desert,then shooting trip.
Pulled all the bash plates off and checked everything underneath as well.To LR credit,didn't find a thing wrong,not even a pipe,wire or hose rubbing where it shouldn't.:)And there are heaps everywhere..Quality control is definitely way up on any other LR product i have had.
Need to rotate tyres,rears badly chipped,underneath rear bumper also copped a hiding from the dirt roads,mudflaps split as well.

D2,won't unlock using remote key sometimes,check receiver module under roof lining,earthed ok,so off to MR i suppose.Key batteries are OK.

Deefer,started replacing rusty screws under floor mats with stainless,also some bolts here and there as well.Couple of pop rivets in panels replaced,have broken and fallen out.Tidied up a few wires rubbing around rear axle area,and in battery compartment.Washed underneath as well.

Needs a bit of Tectyl here and there on the chassis,and a good service,that's another day:)

Yesterday my mechanic helped me change the brake proportioning valve on my County as the old one was leaking. Trouble is the brake fault light is now on permanently, even though it bled up nicely. I've tried removing and replacing the plug a few times to no avail. Not sure if the old one's natural state was open and the new closed or vice versus.

Try unscrewing the switch from the M/cyl. If it dropped fluid enough and the pistons moved to cause the light to come on the switch actually catches the piston and it won't return fully until pulled. If it's like the RRC system.

Note: It won't leak when pulled.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by clubagreenie

Try unscrewing the switch from the M/cyl. If it dropped fluid enough and the pistons moved to cause the light to come on the switch actually catches the piston and it won't return fully until pulled. If it's like the RRC system.

Note: It won't leak when pulled.

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Yes, but, there is no switch on the master cylinder... Do you mean undo the switch on the proportioning valve? It is a brand new proportioning valve that was fitted yesterday.

Washed it dor the first time since buying it 7 months ago.

After installing LED indicators almost 4 months ago, I finally got around to installing some ballast. Now they blink at the correct rate...

Hmmm, possibly. The brake fail switch in the RRC is on the side of the M/cyl and of you drop a primary circuit the extra movement of the piston allows the switch pin to drop and turns the light on and seals the primary circuit to prevent further fluid loss.

Does it have dual or single circuit front brakes?

The proportioning valve is a flow control valve with free flow return, a switch in there I'm trying to work out how it would signal failure and control fluid loss.