Isuzu MSA Gearbox to LT230

SheldonA · 9th February 2011, 08:56 AM

Originally Posted by Vern

Grubb, couple of quick questions.
Whats the gearbox like shift wise, clunky like an LT95, or smooth like a jap box?
And conversion wise, which is the best/better way to go, landrover flywheel cover/ flywheel/ clutch/ starter, or isuzu flywheel cover/ flywheel/ clutch/ starter(12v same as the 24v one you supply)?
Reason i ask is i have both (except for the isuzu flywheel and clutch)

looking to purchase thats all (x2)
Cheers

Vern,

The gearbox shifts are quicker and smoother than both the LT95 and LT85. I would say smooth like a jap truck box.

Conversion wise;

Clutches

1. If you want the stronger clutch, go with the Isuzu flywheel and 300mm clutch (earlier version Isuzu flywheels were still the 275mm clutch same as the Landrover).

2. Otherwise stick with the 275mm Landrover or Isuzu flywheel/Clutch

Flywheel Housing

1. Going with the landrover flywheel housing requires some grinding of it to clear the clutch slave cylinder, but otherwise keeps everything (ie. 12V starter motor) standard.

2. Isuzu flywheel housing means no grinding and can sell the landrover flywheel housing.

Starter Motor for Isuzu flywheel housing

a) Use the truck 24V starter, which will require some rewiring under bonnet to suit - to included either a daul battery charge system or a 24V alternator. Starts the motor on an instant compared to the 12V starter.

b) Have the truck 24V starter rewound to 12V so no rewiring under bonnet is required.

Here is what I have in my vehicle, what I plan to do and what I would do in various situations.

Mine has the truck flywheel housing, 275mm clutch and 24V starter motor with 24V alternator. As much as possible is being converted to 24V as I go (ie. if I blow a headlight it will be replaced with 24V). After I fit a turbo, if the clutch slips I will go to 300mm, but I rarely tow heavy loads (tinny and dirt bike) and don't plan to be lighting up all four tyres

on bitumen with copious amount of boost....

If I had a stock standard 110 Isuzu inwhich the LT85/LT95 simply needed replacing and wanted to keep 12V. I would either go the Landrover flywheel housing (least hassle option) or the Isuzu flywheel housing with rewound to 12V starter (potentially the cheapest option if the landrover flywheel housing is sold).

If 24V system was appealling for starting and other potential benefits, then would go the Isuzu flywheel housing (probably the 2nd cheapest option, as no rewind of starter motor, but require dual batteries and 24V alternator or dual charge system).

If I wasn't going to turbo it, or low boost turbo/minimal towing I would stay with the 275mm clutch.

Now if I was doing a complete conversion for either a V8 County or a later model tdi defender. I would use the Isuzu flywheel housing with 24V system given it would most likely be the easiest to source the whole drive train in one hit. Basically if you have an Isuzu flywheel housing, 24V starter and 24V alternator at hand, I would use these.

Hope this helps!

**Vern** · 9th February 2011, 06:15 PM

No Grubb you didn't help

. think i'd better do some more investigating.

What i have in the shed sofar is.
Taper roller lt95, lt95/isuzu bellhousing (x2), landrover flywheel (x2), landrover flywheel housing, isuzu truck flywheel housing, landrover starter, truck starter (x2)(12v i think), new landrover clutch (uknown brand).

So i have enough bits give or take to go either way, the idea of the bigger clutch does appeal though. And i can sell bits to cover the cost of other bits, i think i just need to figure out which is the better conversion for me

**THE 109** · 9th February 2011, 07:17 PM

Why go to all the trouble with using 24 volt when you can fit a 12v starter in the truck flywheel housing off the shelf?
Mine starts first go as soon as you hit the key,with a standard N70zz battery that's over 4 years old.
My engine has the 300mm clutch with isuzu slave cylinder coupled up to the standard land rover master cylinder,the pedal doesn't run out of travel and is noticably heavier than my defender with R380.
If you used the land rover slave cylinder with the 300mm clutch I believe the pedal would be very heavy.
The 24v truck alternater can be replaced with a 12v unit easily aswell,no need for hard to find rover specific isuzu parts.
Eric

**Vern** · 9th February 2011, 07:58 PM

Eric, i presume your using the truck gearbox?

**THE 109** · 9th February 2011, 08:06 PM

Yep,MSA-5G

SheldonA · 9th February 2011, 10:49 PM

Originally Posted by Vern

No Grubb you didn't help.

Some people you just can't help.......

Originally Posted by THE 109

Why go to all the trouble with using 24 volt when you can fit a 12v starter in the truck flywheel housing off the shelf?
Mine starts first go as soon as you hit the key,with a standard N70zz battery that's over 4 years old.
My engine has the 300mm clutch with isuzu slave cylinder coupled up to the standard land rover master cylinder,the pedal doesn't run out of travel and is noticably heavier than my defender with R380.
If you used the land rover slave cylinder with the 300mm clutch I believe the pedal would be very heavy.
The 24v truck alternater can be replaced with a 12v unit easily aswell,no need for hard to find rover specific isuzu parts.
Eric

Damien and Eric,

What Isuzu starter motors do you have? Are they the bulgey out ones that need to be either rotated or have the chassis notched? That's is why I suggest the starters I have. Am yet to come across a 12V Isuzu starter that clears the chassis rails.

Mine started fine with the original landrover 12V starter too and not suggesting there is anything wrong with the thousands of 4BD1's around the world on 12V. Just in comparison the 24V is so noticably more lively. I am a personal fan of higher voltage and lower amps, but that is just me.

Eric, that's interesting with the clutch slave cylinder. What was the original landrover slave cylinder: a 110 County or a defender? As they have different bore sizes, but from memory the master cylinders are all the same. Don't quote me on actaul sizes as this is from memory, but I know they are in this order of size for the slaves; Truck 30mm, 110 Isuzu 1in, Defender 7/8in. The truck slave on my 275mm clutch didn't quite disengage the clutch fully, but the original landrover isuzu 110 slave works perfectly - right amount of travel and not heavy at all. There may be differences with travel b/n the 275mm and 300mm clutches... I guess GarrySeriesIII will be the guinea pig (I sent him a county slave to replace his defender one for his 300mm clutch - Garry you done yet?

. I might just send him down a truck slave just for safety sake) If you used the defender slave over the county one I would agree that it would be too heavy.

Originally Posted by Vern

think i'd better do some more investigating.

Yep, need to find what suits you... I have a principal I work too when it comes to this, but you might not want to hear it

**THE 109** · 10th February 2011, 05:30 AM

My starter is the same style as fitted to the truck engines so I notched my chassis,not a big job and I can use easily found standard starters.

I'm using the 30mm truck slave with the 3/4" master cylinder,I haven't tried any other comination.I get full clutch disengagement at around 3/4 travel of pedal.

**Vern** · 10th February 2011, 06:20 AM

Originally Posted by THE 109

I notched my chassis

the bit i don't want to do

**Dougal** · 10th February 2011, 06:28 AM

You won't have any issues with the 275mm clutch slipping. Well not unless you're smoking up 42" tyres.

**Vern** · 10th February 2011, 06:33 AM

thats the plan Dougal

Thread: Isuzu MSA Gearbox to LT230

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