Thread: The ultimate solution to Td5 vibration / knocking

I found oil in the harness and at the plug and in the ecu. I replaced the injector harness and cleaned the rest (the eng loom and injector harness had nov 2007 on it so it wasnt that old). That decreased the vibration by about 50%. Im not convinced the ecu is perfect as the circuit board where the pins are solded in for the plug has bubbled under the resin coating where it looks as though the oil has worked its way in.

There is still a vibe at 2200 with the same symptoms. It still vibrates in any gear including free reving but its much more noticable at 100 kmh. Im going to replace the flex join in the dump pipe. It seems as though its working but the vibe changes if you lean on the exhaust when free reving. i might replace all the exhaust mounts while im there. Im sure every little bit will help.

The vibe was the same with either only the front shaft in or only the rear shaft in. It didnt seem to make any difference.

I need to replace all tie rod ends but im sure that will change nothing except the slight knock in the steering.

My disco leans quite hard to the right. Its approx 45mm lower on the right hand side and the vibe at 2200 rpm changes slightly as i drive over bumps. So as the car drops after bouncing the vibe nearly dissapears for a split second. Im wondering if the lean is contributing to the vibe. Im replacing the springs and shocks with 40mm lift in about 3 weeks so ill let you know if that changes anything.

Some thing else ive noticed is when im on rough or older roads the vibration is so much more noticable at 2200rpm. As soon as the road changes to new asphalt it smoothens out. It doesnt dissapear but it is alot smoother.

If anyone has an auto td5 ecu i could try that would be great. I live in Ormeau and work at indooroopilly.

Thanx guys. Michael.

I've got exactly the same vibration in my Td5. Mine was worse before I changed out the engine mounts on it and that got it down by half. Still a crappy vibration though. Interestingly enough when I was down the road at a mechs the other day getting codes cleared for another problem (a false dumping into limp mode - love those M and S lights...) the vibration went away for a short while before coming back. I'm lead to believe that the injector loom is still clogged at the top end - I cleaned out the bottom at the ecu where there was some oil.. Will let you all know how it goes....

As per suggestion here:
www.discovery2.co.uk / Crankshaft pulley* / TV damper replacement

Works well. The temp bolts i got are M8, they fit in where the ones you take out go, and can go in a lot deeper than length of short removed bolts if need be.

just today got the fan and belt off for the first time, all the pulleys/pumps seemed ok except the idler (where the ACE pump would go) which if spun had a slight grindy sort of noise indicating enough to me that the bearing where shot.

so i phoned a supplier for a replacement and was supplied with part number ERR6493 which had a longer bolt than the one removed though the stamp on the pulley itself had the same code.

so i just used the old bolt with new pulley.

i was kind of expecting part number ERR6658 from my internet research. maybe both bolts may have fit. though the one i bought did have a alloy type piece screwed on the back of the pulley bolt, which i had to remove for the pulley to line up. i imagine this is just to hold the bolt in place in the box ?

anyway, getting to my actual point. the new pulley didn't stop my rumble/vibrations at ~2.2k rpm but it did totally stop a very loud and annoying whine which would happen driving or not with revving the engine. kind of fan belt sounding.

so next week i have the car booked in with roving mechanic in here in sydney to get all the disc rotors replaced and new pads, plus cleaning hub sensors and 3 amigo fault code reset. so i will be showing him the rumble/vibration and asking about it. but going by my ear with the sound covers taken off it kind sound engine internal in my case....

i forgot to mention that i did try running it and getting to ta make the vibration noise with the belt off and it did do it. also a had a look and poke at the Harmonic Balancer which appeared solid and not to wobble at all.

Checkk the bearing, if it's a 6063 (by memory the same as the other idlers ) they are about $5 at bursons and the like

6303LHA is whats stamped on the one i pulled off. to do as you suggest i imaging you would need a bearing press...

Usually they have a circlip retaining them. Just a gentle tap squarely with a hammer (and socket if necessary) is all it takes. The 6063 is used on thoiusands of things, alternators, idlers and pulleys. I know the majority of toyo alt's and idlers use them, and Ross Balancers and Pulleys (aftermarket mfct) only use something else where it's not possible to use one, he'll even double them up to increase width in pref.