What happened to your Discovery 2 today?

**Pedro_The_Swift** · 16th December 2018, 07:07 AM

Took the BSL to a reputable Auto Lecky as the start had been getting noticably slower over a few days,, Their professional opinion was a parasitic leak from 3 sources, my obd2 port, the brake controller and the LPG system. After the first day of slower starts I stuck it on a 7 stage batt charger for 7 hours where it reached the end stage,, the very next morning it was a very slow start, so much so I parked it up out in the street where there is access,, now all the leaks together still only reached milliamps,, all 3 items have been on the car forever (over 5 years for the brake controller and obd2, the LPG came with the car so??) anyway thats was their result, disconnect the two inside, bolt a new battery in and see ya later.

If nothing else I am happy for the clean bill of health to the charging system. Hopefully I get more than 2 and a half years out of this batt.
and I'm convinced thats what it was, just a batt failure,, the rest was window dressing to pad out the bill with some labour.

was funny sitting in the waiting room listening to the alarm go off its head,, and then hearing the car back out and park outside, then 40 mins later getting the invoice, all that time neatly allocated...

**trout1105** · 16th December 2018, 07:20 AM

I bought a battery tester about a year ago for about $30, It takes ALL the guesswork out of checking a battery and it only takes seconds to use.
I now don't have to rely on someone who wants to sell me a new battery and charge me for testing the old one anymore

I have 17 different batteries in various cars, the boat, the van and deep cell batteries I use for camping to look out for so it not only saves me a few quid I have peace of mind knowing my batteries are in good order.

**ozscott** · 17th December 2018, 02:32 AM

As far as I know the only aaccurate way to test a lead acid or AGM if it tests OK on a voltmeter is to load it to about half its CCA for quite a few seconds. Over 10 from memory. The RACQ breakdown guys have the testers. Very heavy duty items. Bulky. Very expensive. Cheers

**AK83** · 17th December 2018, 08:41 AM

Originally Posted by ozscott

As far as I know the only aaccurate way to test a lead acid or AGM if it tests OK on a voltmeter is to load it to about half its CCA for quite a few seconds. Over 10 from memory. The RACQ breakdown guys have the testers. Very heavy duty items. Bulky. Very expensive. Cheers

I don't mind paying for tools!
about $200(maybe $178, but cant' really remember exactly) .. got me a Foxwell BT-705.
It has some useless bluetooth printer option, but generally works quite well.
It's limited to how large a battery you can test(maybe 1100CCA??), and gives you most of the important info you need to know.
So far, it seems as accurate as I need for my purposes. Size is similar to a very large multimeter.

For me it was more important to be 101% sure on my warranty claim when my battery died in less than 12months!

**Eevo** · 17th December 2018, 10:31 AM

carbon pile tester

**Pedro_The_Swift** · 17th December 2018, 04:42 PM

Foxwell Battery Analyzer BT705 for 12V and 24V System

This actually looks ok,, I have 5 batts to take care of so cheap really,,,
Thanks AK,,

**Pedro_The_Swift** · 17th December 2018, 04:57 PM

Oh, and day two of the "new" battery drain regime brought a slow start just like two days ago....
about an hour after I had returned the "Are You A Happy Customer' email to the auto lecky I received a phone call asking the problem,,
when I explained that I still HAD the problem he was a bit shocked,,
so now I'm thinking I just wasted 400 bucks on a "business by reputation" ...

so my next step is a free voltage drop test on the starter cable, and??

new starter????

anybody used these?
Land Rover v8 - High Torque Starter – Classic Car Performance

**PhilipA** · 18th December 2018, 07:23 AM

Yesterday I decided to back off the waste gate to 12 turns and fit a wastegate controller to try to get a reliable 22PSI max..
Removed the turbo heat shield only to find the bracket broken.

I have modified my bracket by inserting Rivnuts so that the shield can be removed by undoing two bolts rather than reaching in to the impossible to get at bolt on the turbo. One bolt was missing and when I undid the other bolt the remains of the bracket fell on the ground as it had fractured at the right angle bend next to the turbo mounting bolt.
It is obvious that this is a high vibration area.
I tried welding the bracket but no dice with my skills or lack of.
So I searched around and found some ( thicker) steel strip and reproduced the bracket.

So if you have a hard to identify noise this may be it.

The Turbosmart turbo wastegate controller seems to work well and I can control maximum boost to 22PSI. I will evaluate how it goes over the next few days, and see if I have stopped the "sizzle '' from the engine bay.
Regards Philip A

**DiscoDiscoMan** · 18th December 2018, 11:04 AM

Originally Posted by Pedro_The_Swift

The new Power steer pump and gearbox thermo arrived today,
typically excellant delivery from Mario,,

for some reason I thought the thermostat would be a lot smaller???

Hey Pedro, with all the electrical issues have you had time to install the thermostat?

DDM

**Bohica** · 18th December 2018, 05:23 PM

This arrived today
Thanks Mario for a speedy delivery and delivery update.

I sent a message saying "It's here!" half an hour later I get a message asking "Is it in yet?" That cracked me up. I bough the radiator in back in March and it is still in the shed.

20181218_181311.jpg

Tomorrow it goes on the car or do I replace the radiator first? With the bumper, I have to remove the helper springs air connections, The Anderson Plug and the flat trailer plug. Hmm. To replace the radiator I just have to remove the fan, the intercooler..Decisions, decisions.

I ought to thank the poor lady that ran into the back of me and popped the trim clips. The insurance paid for the HD steel bar.

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