Thread: What happened to your Discovery 2 today?

Yeah, thats where I got my info from too.. so it was here.

I just measured the OME Nitrochargers that came out.

Basically same as in the list. But part No's are different to what came off the D2.

I have a N107(front) .. rear is too oily/blacked out to see the part number.
But I found a measuring device(not my tape measure tho) and measured

585 open and 360 closed for the front.
585 open and 365 closed for the rear one.
(measuring device will have a few mils of 'uncertainty' tho)

Funny thing with them too.
Yesterday once pulled from under the D2, they had no pressure to rebound back to open length.
Today they seem to have 'repressurised' a little. Very slow to extend tho.. maybe a minute or more to fully open.
The one from the front that felt OK-ish feels smooth to push and return, and no slurping noises.

The rears tho both extend but still have the free movement of a dead shock.
the totally dead one with knackered lower bush still doesn't rebound open(much).

New Billies were hard to compress as they rebounded in about a sec or two .. massive pressure so hard to measure closed.
And I tried too. I used a ratchet strap to try to keep it closed(and I'm alone) and fumbled and swore for a good 5-10 mins trying to keep it part closed to wrap the strap around it and 'close it' ....
It was pretty much as most Get Smart episodes of him fumbling like a bumbling fool ...

So if I said it took me about 3 or 4 hrs to swap out the shocks ... half of that was stuffing around with taking photos, trying to fluff about with the Billies to get comparisons to the OMEs, the other half was trying to remove the LHS tower(idiot LR engineers!) and about 5 mins to unbolt and bolt up the actual shocks!
If I didn't stuff around and have a smoko every other minute , 3 shocks would have taken maybe 20 mins to remove and refit, and I reckon 30 mins to do the LHS front. I just removed the turbo to IC hose and pushed the pipe away. A V8 may be a bit easier(??).
ABS brake pipes are slightly in the way of the tower but move just enough so it's not a problem. I cracked the top shock bolt before anything else to make sure it'll come off before it was all loose on both fronts, and luckily for the LHS too. To angle the tower out easily while top bolt was already half loose I then removed it to separate tower and shock, pushed shock back down low to get it outta the way and tower angled this way and that and came out.

D1 and RRC by comparison is easy peasy stuff. I don't like the pin method of fixing, the D2 eye/bolt is much easier up front. Not a lot of room to get to lower bolts on one of the 4, but managed to lever the spring open a little and jam a 1/4 drive socket in there to remove it. Springs on my D2 are some aftermarket stuff, and more tightly wound coil. On my parts D2 I can see that std springs allow much easier access to the lower bolts for the fronts.

If I had have been smarter(and wiser), I'd have used the ratchet strap to hold the front towers down whilst the Billies were fighting whilst I tried to bolt the towers down .. There was just enough length/space/reach to push tower down, and reach under the guard to wind on the two outer nuts to keep the tower down enough to get the other two on later. And other than the fight against the pressure of the shock, the rears were easy as!

The top oil feed line arrived today (Sunday at 3.45pm being sent on Wednesday so not bad) so took it out and made sure the length was fine, maybe tight but certainly doable, no time to fit the turbo and exhaust tonight though. Still waiting on the MAP for increased boost mapping.
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Trying to get parts for bespoke fit of components in Dan's Victoria Lockdown has been impossible, now officially sick of looking up websites trying to figure what may fit with the knowledge that I can wait weeks and they might not be right...

Have scrapped the plan to go away for the long weekend due to the fact it will be every man and his dog and the D2 is not finished and more importantly, has not had a shakedown. May take the D2a out to Toolangi or Wombat for a day though.


List of things to do

• Fit Turbo and exhaust (bit of welding to attach to rear muffler bracket)
• Finish wiring for EWP and Fan, the double battery, winch and driving lights
• Refit interior, centre dash and install headunit with cameras, uhf with twin leads and gauges
• Fit waterpipes including final placement of the EWP which at the moment will be above the radiator outlet with two 90' pipes and connector and then pipe to the engine proper.
• Fit the front Bilstein's.
• Start it up, top up Auto, engine and coolant, test and fix what may be not working, leaking etc.

Now having driving the new to me D2a for just on 400km's have some observations
1st - ACE is superb and miss it dreadfully as do not have it in the D2a, whilst not as rolly as the D1 TDi, that there is roll and as much came as a bit of a surprise. Picked up a RTT today and with a bit of wind could really feel it on top.
2nd - The Yellow stuff pads and upgraded discs are defiantly going on, whilst in isolation the brakes are nearly alright, almost had a rear end shunt when a car just stopped at the Parkville Cemetery roundabout with the lights green, too close, much too close for comfort and this is with a full brake fluid flush done for the RWC.
3rd - The Ashcroft ATB at the front gives the steering a confidence boost (for me anyway) and does make the car less truck like to punt around, the extra weight and centering are an upgrade / benefit when high speed cruising, the D2a has all new bits but still has a wooliness to the initial turn and straight ahead.
4th - The dashboard graphics in the D2 are easier to read at a glance
5th - Performance is acceptable, nothing dramatic over the D2 (if at all) but yes the Auto behavior is the greatest hinderance to pushing on.
6th - Happy to make the D2a a daily driver and move on the Mondeo, will miss some of the comforts (Titanium model) and go but the Discovery makes me feel good!!!!!

havent seen one like this before



2004 Land Rover Discovery SE Automatic SUV | Cars, Vans & Utes | Gumtree Australia South Perth Area - South Perth | 1283877396

That's a lot of money for an unregistered car with questionable roadworthyness.

After many months of work and getting it to stop leaking haha I tested out the beadlocks and noisy as 35s simexs and they are great, bag out well and climb over everything

Originally Posted by Kaaaiju

After many months of work and getting it to stop leaking haha I tested out the beadlocks and noisy as 35s simexs and they are great, bag out well and climb over everything

Sweet lord baby Jesus

i need 35's in my life

Original 18 inch rims that came with the car finally got the old dead rubber taken off. Decided I'll paint them black before throwing on some 32's. Should go well with a white car and black trim.

Previous owners total lack of skill with a spray can is painfully obvious now

Also, when i picked them up from the local Bob Jane, the guys all commented on how bloody heavy these alloys are. Can anyone shed some light on this? I've got nothing to compare to but these guys handle wheels and tyres for a living so i found their comments quite interesting.

Originally Posted by Markf

[deletia]
All done now and it changes as good as ever since the rebuild and is nice and smooth. And it doesn't leak.

And, of course, after a couple of hundred k's it started slipping. Not much but slipping nonetheless. When I got it home (about 10k's) I took out the filler plug and the stuff that came out was the colour of black coffee and smelt like some sort of chemical fire. When I was backing it up the driveway (steep-ish) it slipped so badly that it couldn't even make any headway in low range. On the nature strip it stays for the time being. The downhill slide from good to no good only took about 25 k's.
Gearbox buggered methinks.

I'm starting to lose interest in all things D2.