Thread: What happened to your Discovery 2 today?

Changed o2 sensors on my V8 D2. Both sides, brand new Bosch. Also loaded the tank up with 98 octane from Costco. So now i'll hopefully get 450km out of a tank instead of 400km.

Originally Posted by onebob

Looking forward to some pics…BTW and for information for all ….re the P38 auto trans sump did you look locally before purchasing cos they are not hard to find nor are they expensive…. In my case $20 for the sump, fill tube and dip stick at a nearby “you pull it” wrecking yard about 3 weeks ago - but I did have to lay down in the mud for an hour to get it out . Being a V8 the crossmember and exhaust had to come off to remove the pan

That's a great buy and get, must admit have not looked at you pull it wreckers and but had put in request to wreckers previously and quoted availabilities and prices were NAH. Maybe a good lesson as suppose have been chasing them in LR areas where the worth is known, hmmm.

Worked out how to disable the MAF sensor in the tune (10p engine, not needed when EGR removed) no error codes when unplugged !

Not as exciting as blinging it up with accessories, but cheaper, keeps the brain learning.

I was of the understanding that the MAF and MAP work together to calculate fuel load/burn (probably not he right term). I didn't think that the deletion of the EGR influenced this calculation.

But I'm certainly no expert, a long way from it actually.

Originally Posted by ChookD2

I was of the understanding that the MAF and MAP work together to calculate fuel load/burn (probably not he right term). I didn't think that the deletion of the EGR influenced this calculation.

But I'm certainly no expert, a long way from it actually.

Only on the later motors, I think Ray, not on the 10P.

Originally Posted by ChookD2

I was of the understanding that the MAF and MAP work together to calculate fuel load/burn (probably not he right term). I didn't think that the deletion of the EGR influenced this calculation.

But I'm certainly no expert, a long way from it actually.

The two variants are different in their fueling.

10p uses the MAF for the EGR only, so once you de-EGR it becomes useless but if you unplug you get an error on the diagnostics but the default backup value in the 10p factory tune is 0 anyway. So no need to replace a crook MAF on 10p motor if you have removed the EGR gear. My VDO MAF is old and crook and I have no EGR so piddled around to disable it permanently in the tune so I wouldn't see a fault on the nanocom.

15p does use the MAF for fueling so different story there. But the tuning guys can do away with the MAF on these too and tune them like they tune 10p. Offtrack has a fix on his website www.discotd5.com for the 15p tune to disable the MAF, unfortunately not for 10p so I had to figure it out by trial and error coz I can't read Hex yet.

Too many posts on forums that are actually unhelpful to Td5 newbies like me when fault finding, because people are not distinguishing between 10p and 15p motors while offering well meaning advice...

Fixed the AC on the weekend.

It had been working intermittently, then nothing.

Found the ground wire broken on the clutch.
The aftermarket rad hose is a little to close to the plug/connector for the clutch and had fractured the wire internally right at the pin.

So nice to have some dehum again when living in the sub-tropics.

Originally Posted by rick130

Fixed the AC on the weekend.

It had been working intermittently, then nothing.

Found the ground wire broken on the clutch.
The aftermarket rad hose is a little to close to the plug/connector for the clutch and had fractured the wire internally right at the pin.

So nice to have some dehum again when living in the sub-tropics.

Shame your not allowed into Queensland, Scary's pretty handy with D2 air-con.