Thread: DIY Map/Maf enhancer / manipulator

Originally Posted by sierrafery

I understand what you mean as well, that's why i said to borrow one if you can, i meant not 100% good MAF as it's not good to suit what the ECU expects, i've seen mine and other's readings topping up at 680 not once though i expect a certain ''tolerance'' in this area exactly like in any others(i estimate +/- 5%) that's why i'm generally saying when i'm asked about good readings that the air flow range is between 55 and 650 on a well working setup, i measured mine when it failed on bench using a blower and a variable voltage source and it exceeded 5V a bit only when the supply was above 14.7V which is above normal, i didnt try this with a 100% good genuine MAF cos i was affraid to not ruin it

though, your 6 months old MAF is it genuine? or did it work ok for a while then started to do that or it was this way from the beginning? i'm trying to help you fix this believe me

My first Genuine MAF failed long ago before my remap and before i rebuilt my engine. I now have a VDO replacement instead.

Interestingly enough, my front prop shaft just failed again. I removed it last night and now have rear wheel drive only, the engine does not surge at full throttle like this. Less load on the engine i guess.

Be aware that if you drive it with locked diff and one propshaft you must make sure that the TC is disabled... i forgot from so many threads, is your's facelift or not?, if it's facelift and you drive it with locked diff and one prop you must remove the ABS pump relay(R10)

Originally Posted by sierrafery

Be aware that if you drive it with locked diff and one propshaft you must make sure that the TC is disabled... i forgot from so many threads, is your's facelift or not?, if it's facelift and you drive it with locked diff and one prop you must remove the ABS pump relay(R10)

It is a D2a. Why must i remove the ABS relay?

It's probably time to read the Good Oil and leave the opinions of some elsewhere.

I wouldn't be removing anything, will void your insurance if you have a stack

Originally Posted by Jazzman

It is a D2a. Why must i remove the ABS relay?

it's recommended in RAVE and it has a good reason based on how the TC system works, i have my own explanation based on the system's description from wabco documents but i'll rest my case on this cos i dont know what's in the Good oil , in a nutshell it's for brakes oveheat prevention, your choice but if you decide to follow that instruction my advice is to let the fuse alone go for the relay

Originally Posted by TRANSFER BOX - LT230SE; 41-16 DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION

Functionality - Vehicles from 03 model year only
The differential lock must be engaged for 2 wheel rolling road testing. It will also be necessary to disconnect the
propeller shaft from the transfer box output shaft driving the axle whose wheels are NOT on the rolling road. In
addition, the ETC system must be deactivated by either, removing a fuse (10A fuse 28 in the passenger compartment
fusebox, labelled ABS) or disconnecting the ABS modulator pump. This must be done with the ignition switched off.
Note that the SLABS ECU may record a system fault.

I think you may have miss understood rave "2 wheel rolling road testing" ie a Dyno. If the front wheels are stationary and the rear are on the dyno or rolling road the abs will crack it due to the difference in wheel speed.... on the road when all 4 wheel are moving you will be fine..... and much safer with the ABS connected.

It can happen off road as well, then with working TC you can loose all motion in mud, happened to me, i agree that only on road as long as it's not slippery the TC is not a big issue though the system is not calibrated for rear traction at all, there are cases depending on surface condition to be close to a rolling road dyno bed simulation, especially in mud or slippery road... the best thing is to not drive around too much with one prop and keep the ABS system fully operational