Reply With QuoteMade a bracket and mounted my PDM60 in place.
Programmed it up the way I want.
Now to hook up the items it’s going to run.
Super ModeratorRebuilt the front passenger side lock again. I cleaned/lubed the motor in 2017, so this time I replaced the motor with a new one. Turns out the old motor has a knurled spline on the shaft to retain the gear so I used a bit of red loctite to put the gear on the new motor. Should have just popped the end bell off and cleaned it up again I suppose.
Last time I disconnected the cables to the outer handle and cylinder. This time I thought I'd remove the handle and lock as a unit. Getting it out was easy, but there is a steel shield around the cylinder and it took me the best part of an hour to wiggle it back into place with the shield fitted. Next time I'll disconnect the cables again or just leave the shield off.
Drivers rear can wait until the weekend. At least that one locks and unlocks most of the time.
Edit:
After examining the motor I pulled out, it's toast with a capital 'F'. The brushes are completely gone and the commutator is well and truly stuffed, so there was no way it was going to be remediated a second time. I bought a new set of main lock motors from Amazon back in 2017, but as I discovered today the originals had a knurled shaft. That got me looking based on the part numbers of the one I removed, and I stumbled across this : For Land Rover door lock motor for Freelander 2 Range Rover sports version found 34 Aurora lock motor worm|Cables, Adapters & Sockets| - AliExpress
Both motors, with what appear to be the correct pinions already in place. So I've ordered 4 of each and we'll see how well they fit when the next one gives up.
OldBushie
Made a bracket and mounted my PDM60 in place.
Programmed it up the way I want.
Now to hook up the items it’s going to run.
Master
What’s this for?Originally Posted by Tombie
Made a bracket and mounted my PDM60 in place.
Programmed it up the way I want.
Now to hook up the items it’s going to run.
OldBushie
Microprocessor based power distribution.
Can switch outputs on Ignition, Gnd or Always on options.
Handles 60a so perfect for feeding my Radios, Aux fuel tank pump, Cellfi Go and aux devices.
One input line cleans up a plethora of cables through the firewall.
ChatterBox
SubscriberHow is this different to having a 6 or 8b&s through the firewall into a 100amp fuse box and having radio, cellfi go, etc plugged into the fuse box?
Or am I totally not understanding what the pdm60 is for?
"Land Rover - making mechanics out of everyday motorists for nearly 70 years"
OldBushie
It’s in essence not any different.
Just programmable outputs, which can be set to do different behaviours.
For example:
I run 2 UHF units. One is constantly powered to enable base comms.
The other is switched to ignition.
The Cellfi is also ignition switched.
Both have a 3 minute shut down delay once the vehicle is turned off, just so I can complete a call as I park up without placing too much ongoing strain on the battery, then they shut down.
ChatterBox
SubscriberThat makes sense, thanks
"Land Rover - making mechanics out of everyday motorists for nearly 70 years"
Fossicker
I did my front and rear diff oils on the 2010 D4 last weekend. The car was warm when I started. As I got to the last bit of thread undoing the front diff filler hole it blew off and spat a whole lot of oil all over the steering and suspension components. Blocked breather! I immediately inspected the seals - no leaks. So lucky!
After a little googling I learned that it's a common issue and LR revised the front diff breather filter design as the original one blocked easily. However they want about $80 for what amounts to a 4mm plastic elbow with tiny filter attached! No way.
In the mean time I've cut the old filter off and made a temp fix with some cloth cable tied over the open tube. A more permanent solution will be as others have done - an inline mower fuel filter added with 4mm tube and looped at the end to stop water ingress. Will post a pic when i've done mine
TopicToaster
SubscriberI found the genuine filter pretty cheap online. Did the mod
2010 TDV6 3.0L Discovery 4 HSE
2007 Audi RS4 (B7)
Wizard
I used a sintered bronze filter. Cost about 10 bucks
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