Thread: Building the Ultimate touring 130 with slide on - my version...

Cheers Matt thanks for filling me in. I do have the ride height set at about standard height no higher, so mabey the vague steering is from other things. Will have to measure the castor to be sure. Re pinion angle, I thought it is ment to be about the same angle to the shaft as the shaft is to the T case, not directly in line. Will have to see a stock vehicle.

The Koni's are a 1000 times better, rears spot on, fronts could still be a tad firm but being fussy. Can get them revalved no worries but will wait till I've done more K's first to see how they go, still don't think they need it. Lucky I changed them as the ultimates were about to snap in two!

You suggested getting lower pistons, I'll give Brett a call see what he reckons.

While I have your attention, could you please fill me in on the rest of the front diff, ie; what axles are they, spline, Maxi drive etc? Locker is a Maxi drive? And I think you said they are county CV's? And discs county or RR? Havn't pulled it apart yet

Cheers,
Andrew.

Originally Posted by rovercare

The front RR housing is the same dimensionally, the arms everything, the shock mounts are factory EAS top and bottom, again factory rover location, but the EAS models were a bit of a hack job

Ride height governs castor angle, it wont be vague with a lower running height on road, it will however be firmer as the spring rate increases the further the bag is over the piston

Good to see my "temporary" teflon packers are still working that's how Brett from airbag man came about making offset lower pistons for what is now I believe there rover kits as I was doing that first letting him know the issues

So pinion angle is factory rover, should not be an issue

I'm not sure how well the Raids will work with airbags, from what I gathered air springs need a far lower comp/rebound rate than coils, its why the shocks it had in made it a very harsh ride, far to firm, they were good with coils however


The bushes, both chassis and diff end should all be correct match, the panhard I cant remember what I used or if I welded washer on housing to suit smaller bolt ID or drilled chassis end mount to go larger

I'd be inclined to see if you can get lower pistons that bolt in from Brett and if you prefer to run higher height on road rotate the swivels

With swaybar in the back, low ride height you could drive it around corners till the rear wheels lifted, like driving with ACE

Originally Posted by taylorslandy

Cheers Matt thanks for filling me in. I do have the ride height set at about standard height no higher, so mabey the vague steering is from other things. Will have to measure the castor to be sure. Re pinion angle, I thought it is ment to be about the same angle to the shaft as the shaft is to the T case, not directly in line. Will have to see a stock vehicle.

The Koni's are a 1000 times better, rears spot on, fronts could still be a tad firm but being fussy. Can get them revalved no worries but will wait till I've done more K's first to see how they go, still don't think they need it. Lucky I changed them as the ultimates were about to snap in two!

You suggested getting lower pistons, I'll give Brett a call see what he reckons.

While I have your attention, could you please fill me in on the rest of the front diff, ie; what axles are they, spline, Maxi drive etc? Locker is a Maxi drive? And I think you said they are county CV's? And discs county or RR? Havn't pulled it apart yet

Cheers,
Andrew.

Pinion angle "should" be the same flange angle yes, but not possible to achieve front and rear, that's why rovers front tailshafts are out of phase, helps prevent vibes

Front is all maxi drive, centre and axles, just needs actuator block fitted, everything swivel hub outwards is standard county, cv joints, hubs disc etc

Originally Posted by rovercare

Pinion angle "should" be the same flange angle yes, but not possible to achieve front and rear, that's why rovers front tailshafts are out of phase, helps prevent vibes

Front is all maxi drive, centre and axles, just needs actuator block fitted, everything swivel hub outwards is standard county, cv joints, hubs disc etc

Thanks heaps

Bull bar finished. Before I bolted the winch in I tbhought I'd better give it a bit of a service, so pulled it down, cleaned it, put back together. Was good to see no rust on the gears.




About 10 years ago I modified my hi mount winch to be stronger so copied Mal Leslie's modifications which include welding on 4 ears to attach tie rods on the back, converting to oil lube which includes welding a boss on the bottom for the drain plug and fitting a fill plug, fitting a coulpe of breathers. The oil lube is much better than grease, just takes about a cup of gear oil, easy to change.


A tricky bit when putting the clutch/brake back together is keeping all the ball bearings in place while you compress the spring and fit the circlip. Some people use grease to stick the balls in place but it seems wrong to have grease right next to the friction brake material which holds the weight of your vehicle when you stop winching. Must admit it also seems wrong to have no grease on ball bearings! Not sure if I've done the right thing but I cleaned it all up and left it all dry and I used magnets to hold the balls in place while put back together. If for some reason it doesn't matter if grease gets on the brake material please let me know and I'll grease it!

Here she is all fitted. One day I may fit synthetic rope and a horse fairlead but will stick with the old school rollers and cable for now.

Nice looking bulbar, well done on the good setup

Looks awesome
'heaps sick' I believe is the term my generation is supposed to use...

Originally Posted by Disco Muppet

Looks awesome
'heaps sick' I believe is the term my generation is supposed to use...

I thoguht it was "fully Sick"