Thread: Gilbert

Thanks for the replies.
Got another stub axle, off a s3 LWB..
Looks the same. All later series the same ????
Will give it a clean and check measurements.
Thanks.

Whitehillbilly

Not all the stub axles have removable sleeves. The later s3 ones seem to be one piece so either replace the whole thing or get some one with a lathe to machine it down so you can fit a sleeve.

Hi Tim.
Lathe no problems. How do you tell if its one piece from looking.
I took the old one to Marshalls Garage, Burringbah. They felt the wear was not 'too' bad, but was happy for me to look around. I
found one, nothing attached, just had to tap it off the axle. S3 hinges, but don't know what year.
Was a bit rusty, but has cleaned up nicely. Think it may a press on collar. will post pic.
Was embarrassed to give them the asking $10, gave double, 'at least you can buy a 6 pack or 4 pack of rum'
They have been handy for odd little bits.
Thanks

whitehillbilly

Got the two collars off, very easy.
Pilot 1/8 drill. 2/3 the way down the collar. Marked drill bits with insulation tape for depth.
Then larger drill to same depth. Not hard to drill.
couple of heavy hits with cold chisel until collar moves. Then pry off.
first one, inner collar cut into stub axle a little. wasn't the chisel, just marked by compression.
second one didn't even split, before it loosened and pryed off.
Will order new ones from Rover spares Monday. Unless someone can suggest somewhere else. ($6 each RS)
will pop hubs in freezer, the off to mate with 20 ton press.

whitehillbilly

Shane they would probably slip off easily if you just put the complete stub axle in an oven.
When I remove a ring-gear from a flywheel, but want to reuse it, I just put the complete
flywheel in my outdoor gas BBQ oven for twenty minutes or so, then the ring gear just falls
off with a slight tickle with a brass hammer.

Cheers, Mick.

Originally Posted by mick88

Shane they would probably slip off easily if you just put the complete stub axle in an oven.
When I remove a ring-gear from a flywheel, but want to reuse it, I just put the complete
flywheel in my outdoor gas BBQ oven for twenty minutes or so, then the ring gear just falls
off with a slight tickle with a brass hammer.

Cheers, Mick.

Thats a good idea Mick. Ill have to try remember that if i ever pull the flywheel off the s3. Ill just turn the ring gear over.

Cheers Rod

Looking over the rear diff, all looks ok.
I do have 1 1/2 mm here, on both sides.
Also any ideas on these added numbers ???? Any comments please.
Thanks

whitehillbilly

Ok, there should be shims under the side gears and also the pinion, smallest, gears. Those shims are hardened to stop the side gears and pinion gears from machining themselves into the carrier and of course to get better clearances and inhibit driveline slop. I think the side gear shims are selectable but I could be wrong. These shims are essential to the diffs operation.

The numbers that are etched into the crown wheel are original setup id marks, ie. who did it, the lapping depth, and such like. The original matching depth on the main pinion should be also etched into the top, ie. -2, or say, +1, to indicate main pinion depth on initial assembly. These are usually not needed apart from the main pinion depth markings can assist a specialist in reconditioning or rebuilding the diff with new bearings, when setting up correct pinion depth to get optimal meshing of the crown wheel and pinion.

Cheers Rod