Thread: Gilbert

All Series Landrovers have oil lubricated wheel bearings (except semifloating rear axles on Series 1).

These are fed with oil from the differential at the rear and the swivels at the front, although it takes a while for the oil to get there (or back out if the swivel or axle housing is dry). Up to Series 2, the drive flange had a filler hole for oiling the bearings with a specified oil quantity after assembly. After this (and retrospectively to earlier ones) the specified procedure is to grease the bearings to provide initial lubrication until the oil gets there.

The very first Landrovers had a bearing top and bottom on the swivels, but this was soon found to provide inadequate damping, and very early on the top bearing was replaced by a spring loaded conical brass bush. From early Series 2a this was in turn replaced by cylindrical fibre bush and fibre thrust washer ("Railko bush") which continued to the end of Series production.

Note that the separate steering damper was never a standard fitting on Series Landrovers, although it became a "standard option" on later Australian production, and is only intended to reduce steering wheel kick in offroad situations, and is not necessary to prevent wheel shimmy, which is damped by the swivels and the steering relay.

Thanks John.
will post a pic.
Ball same part no as one of my old ones, yet bearing top and bottom. Old series 1, one, or home made Mod ????

whitehillbilly

Pulled the rear axle apart.
One shaft looks new ????
Ever won a fight with a Landy ????
Happy new year.

Whitehillbilly

Ouch, looks like it fights dirty too.

I got one like that on Saturday (but didn't get a picture). Very similar, but on the other side!

The top bearing will be a modification, probably reflecting that the bearing was off the shelf at the local bearing supply, where the railko bush would have been an "order in", and probably take a couple of weeks in pre-internet days. Many businesses would only order once a week, and that would be by mail.

Stripped down the rear axle.
Lots of silicone had been added to stop the hub leaking !!!! Didn't work, see the collar.
I read up on removal, but do they need to be heated to fit ???? Manual's only seem to tell you how to remove.
You can see one is very worn, where the axle pokes through. This Is also the side of the New, short axle. Maybe the axle broke, causing the internal wear and groove.
Should I find a replacement, or will it be OK ???? Hate to waste money, if not needed. All 4 bearings are Timkin, and seem ok.
I imagine outer felt seal and silicone is just replacement instead of a new one.
Few little bits needed, so will slow me up a bit.
Thanks for replies.

whitehillbilly

I there a general rule of thumb for this adjustment.
I have the hub socket.
I just hand tightened, rotating hub forward, on the front, with one hand, then locked up the lock nut, with two hands, then a small nip, with small screw driver and socket. Bend lock tab, on the two nuts.
This way I feel a very, very slight play in bearing. I look at the 3 different manuals I have with the 0.002 to 0.00 4 thou endfloat.
Just wondering what has been done in the past by series owners, as this is my FIRST one, must be a easy way. Guess they don't like being over tightened.
Thanks


whitehillbilly

You can ( and IMO should) replace that stub axle. They are not expensive. Gasket and sealant in between the stub and the axle. Bearings I tighten as tight as possible to seat them, rotate the drive 2 full turns and then back the nut off by 90 degrees, lock nut and lock washer bent over. Works for me.