Had to replace the rear axle on the disco after a bit to much locker action.
Hmm, well yesterday I re-fitted my UHF after everything was pulled out of the inside for a thorough clean.
Today I started tidying up the back, really need to sort out some form of rear storage.
Hopefully soon some $$$ is coming in so it's time for sliders and scrub rails
Come at me, urban jungle (car parks)![]()
Had to replace the rear axle on the disco after a bit to much locker action.
Ill be doing Both Front Wheel Bearings this weekend after one is just about to Fail (noisy)
Put a new starter motor in
On the road again![]()
98 Defender 110 tdi Boomer
Two jobs today. Most important was an investigation of the strange noise from the LH rear brake of the County - oops! Metal to metal. Will need to get a pair of drums and shoes, but temporary repair using S/H ones on hand.
Earlier, spent most of the morning fixing the interior door handle operation on two of the doors. For those not familiar with these, the interior handle works by pulling a lever, which comes up against a peg on a second lever, so that the peg slides along a sort of ramp on the side of the first lever. The load is quite high, and at the point of operating the lock, the mechanical advantage is very poor. All it takes is for there to be an almost imperceptible notch worn in the side of the first lever, and motion stops, no matter how hard you pull on the handle. The engineer responsible for this design should have been shot at birth!
I modified the slope on the ramp on lever 1, using my battery chainsaw sharpener. The door handles now work. Quite a tedious job, as the door lining had to be removed, with about a dozen screws plus door handle, door pull, window winder, etc.
John
John
JDNSW
1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol
Pulling the AC compressor clutch apart to see if I can replace the bearing, its a tad noisy.
Has any one done this before?
All fluids changed out today as well, its a full days work![]()
Blew up the one way clutch in the auto. A very loud bang followed by no drive except reverse and first. No metal in the pan, drives ok as a manual.
Turns out the elaborate filling proceedure that I emailed to the repairer (during the smash repair) was not followed and there was enough fluid to drive ok but not to keep the upper bits lubed enough. Eventually goes bang.
Insurance is coming through and replacing it then hitting up repairers for the costs.
Plus their electrician broke off the internal wiring on the terminals of the motor and fried the motor and solenoid. Not economically viable to repair. New winch too.
Got all excited today when the new headlight for the Disco arrived.
That was soon deflated when I realised the supplier had sent the wrong light.
Now I got to put the front of the Disco back together complete with busted LH headlight (it works, just has no lens) again and play the waiting game all over again.
Hohum, best laid plans and all that.
Tiny annoying job really... fixed the 'usual' dry solder joint in the Window ECU.
Took me a total of a minute to prep & solder, a little longer to get it out.
It's all here,
"Repair a Land Rover Discovery electric window ECU to make the rear windows open again"
Just a couple of points. Don't even think about removing the whole unit, there is a REAR fixing on the case... Jemmy out the PCB by spreading the 6 tabs... the plastic case is rubbish material so it won't be difficult... the smaller of the plugs has a locking tab that's hard to depress and remove.... The bigger one is only a firm fit due to being 6mm spades, no locking tab.
Make sure you remove both plugs before you attempt to slide the PCB out, space is limited and shorting it out.......
Logically, you could simply join the purple and white wires, but I think you'd lose the Rear Window lock-out function.
Don't know why we bother, seeing as the back windows (on the SE / 100" wheelbase) only come down half way... I hope the LSE drops them down all the way.
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