Thread: What happened to your Discovery 2 today?

Wow, thanks for that, John. You sure got your $$ worth out of those slip rings. Vacuum pump cause any issues?

I swore at it..

Poor thing, it wasn't really its fault. I have been meaning to clean out the sunroof drains before the rain. Sure Tins. So today I was driving and it dumped about a litre of water on me. Doesn't usually come in on the driver's side. I guess they are both blocked....

Originally Posted by Tins

Wow, thanks for that, John. You sure got your $$ worth out of those slip rings. Vacuum pump cause any issues?

No, all good, 4 bolts holding it on came off ok, pump is a separate self contained unit with a splined drive shaft that slides into the rotor shaft.

The right angled rubber fitting had hardened onto the pump port so cut it and removed the left over when alternator was out.

I replaced the factory vacuum line with some very thick walled fuel line that I felt wouldn't collapse inwards and routed it closer to the inner guard.

CoolDrive has branches in most states and are a trade sales auto parts place but they do sell over the counter if you walk in. And they do have new Denso alternators for Td5 if you want new and regulators and diode packs etc if you want to repair.

I didn't replace the bearing, came off with puller and back on with 16mm deep socket, lots of vids on denso alternators but ignore the must replace bearings bit as bearings are tougher than people give em credit for and a tiny bit of play is fine, I only change alternator bearings if they feel rough when i spin them on my finger.

It cost 18 for them bits and 12 bucks for the high temp epoxy down the road at Autopro. Quite a few hours as I don't rush anything but much cheaper than a replacement alternator and wreckers unit would have unknown wear on brushes and slip ring.

Well, this is over the last couple of weeks or so, been a little busy with bits and pieces

Got a new Century battery from Repco as the old one was kaput, turned out the old one was just one of the generic size ones and only good for 710CCA replacement was a lot heavier and good for about 1000CCA so that sorted the starting issues out. I parked up at the airport for 8 days while at work, went to start, it fired and then died, no amount of 4 letter words seemed to help, just cranked over and over with no sign of life. Checked every fuse I could think of, inertia switch etc etc, still nothing. After a bit of internet research I did the manual fuel purge about 8 times and then finally it tried to fired, purged another couple of times and finally started like noting was wrong (I also noted I had lass than 1/4 of a tank of fuel) anyway, refuelled and got home a couple hours later than normal (320km trip) Next day, got the air bleed valve and nonreturn from the doner and swapped them over, the old one was very blocked up, so basically air in the fuel, no issues since.

Next I had water getting into the back, I had previously picked up a roller cover for the rear (another market place find) and it now had a small pool of water, ok, I'm guessing time to reseal the alpine and rear windows, got some marine Sikaflex and got stuck into it, managed not to get it all over myself for a change, pretty happy how it turned out (except for the corner I missed and had to redo) but still some water getting in, might be the rear door seal, that's a job for later.
Then got stuck into refitting the rear bumperettes so dropped the rear bar, nothing to exciting with that, just heavy and a bit of a fiddle.
Also sourced a correct spare rim (I run 17" BMW X5's) and got the tyre I had for it fitted, now looks a lot better with everything matching (KO2's 265/70/17)
Fitted a dash mat and a set of canvas front seat covers from market place ($25 & $70 respectively)

Slowly getting the White D2 up to spec, still to do list: speedo correction unit, sort out the aircon/heater/fan as not much air coming out of the vents (I think the foam seal is toast or someone has done a poor job refitting the unit) also got a draft coming in from the rear drivers door, not sure if its the door seal or the window seal. Keeping an eye out for a LR jack as well, just because....

cheers

Redd

Just drove to the airport to fly out and noticed the LH tail lights aren't working, it never ends

Opened a nice can of worms up. New plastic bit for between the windscreen and bonnet turned up so started pulling the relevant of trims off which turned into starting to poke around the rust around the top of the windscreen. Was seeing how much was there when I started to rip the windscreen finisher off, oops. Thought I might as well pull it out the rest of the way and see how bad it is and it's not super great. Tomorrow's plan is get a price on the windscreen and figure out if I want to attempt to fix the rust with the windscreen in or try pulling it out myself (odds on me breaking it are good but it's non OEM and in average condition).

Our D2 has a similar issue with the rust along the top edge of the windscreen and whilst sticking my head in the sand has worked to date, it really needs attention and I'd be very interested to see how you get on.

Originally Posted by admiralranga

Opened a nice can of worms up. New plastic bit for between the windscreen and bonnet turned up so started pulling the relevant of trims off which turned into starting to poke around the rust around the top of the windscreen. Was seeing how much was there when I started to rip the windscreen finisher off, oops. Thought I might as well pull it out the rest of the way and see how bad it is and it's not super great. Tomorrow's plan is get a price on the windscreen and figure out if I want to attempt to fix the rust with the windscreen in or try pulling it out myself (odds on me breaking it are good but it's non OEM and in average condition).

It's bonded in. You would need to be good to get it out intact. But hey, doesn't mean it can't be done. Thing is, you need to get it back in, and I would get an installer to do that, so you might as well get him to do the whole thing..... My local bloke ( admittedly he is a Landy nut ) would come and take it out and then come back for the reinstall once the rust was fixed. The mob with the Irish name won't do that....and my bloke was half their price, so shop around. Last year for a RWC he charged me $295, S&F. I guess that will have changed, because politics, but still shop around.

Originally Posted by goldey

Our D2 has a similar issue with the rust along the top edge of the windscreen and whilst sticking my head in the sand has worked to date, it really needs attention and I'd be very interested to see how you get on.

Will post some photos as I go, unfortunately it's got a tendency to drip right on my partner and my offer of some water proof pants wasn't well received. That said it's taking the **** and if I'd sorted it when it started I suspect I'd have way less work to do.

Originally Posted by Tins

It's bonded in. You would need to be good to get it out intact. But hey, doesn't mean it can't be done. Thing is, you need to get it back in, and I would get an installer to do that, so you might as well get him to do the whole thing..... My local bloke ( admittedly he is a Landy nut ) would come and take it out and then come back for the reinstall once the rust was fixed. The mob with the Irish name won't do that....and my bloke was half their price, so shop around. Last year for a RWC he charged me $295, S&F. I guess that will have changed, because politics, but still shop around.

Yeah I'd mostly be doing the removal myself to avoid paying the windscreen mob twice, even if I did get it out in one piece it's not super worth reinstalling, there's a few little cracks in hoping are enough to justify my insurance paying for the replacement. Prices in WA are ~5$60/580 so not unreasonable.