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Thread: What happened to your D3/D4 today?

  1. #4381
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    Conventional Practice

    Quote Originally Posted by RANDLOVER View Post
    I've heard the crank stub is a bit soft and after 250 000km's or so a ridge might be felt, in which case the remedy seems to be to fit a seal with a spring to help it conform to the shaft better than just the neoprene or whatever the original seal is made of.
    Not certain this is viable for this situation, normal practice to address a worn or damaged shaft is to fit a a "Speedi Sleeve", has got me out of trouble on diff pinion shafts.

  2. #4382
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    Jan 2010
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    [QUOTE=Gravy;3174271]Not certain this is viable for this situation, normal practice to address a worn or damaged shaft is to fit a a "Speedi Sleeve", has got me out of trouble on diff pinion shafts.[/QUO

    A Speedi-Sleeve was considered but I don't think there is room for it in the oil pump application.
    2005 D3 TDV6 Present
    1999 D2 TD5 Gone

  3. #4383
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    Quote Originally Posted by l00kin4 View Post
    Hmm. Well, my hopes that an iffy brake pedal switch might be the cause of my shift lock issues (rotary selector wouldn't move out of Park) have now been dashed. I had to follow the excellent guide here 8 speed shift lock solenoid problems to release the lock and I then also installed the temporary 'release mechanism' aka cable tie...

    I couldn't find a fault with the solenoid or anything obvious on the control board so although I touched up the soldering on a few joints, I bit the bullet and forked out the ~$1,000 to have it replaced. Didn't really want to live with the uncertainty.

    Great service from Roving Mechanical with Glen replacing it for me on the spot. Glad they had the module in stock...

    David
    Was it necessary to re-programme the new module to the car?
    Or simply a straight swap over?
    Before: Ser 2a LWB, Ser 3 S/W, 1979 RR 2 door, 1981 LR Stage 1 V8 (new), 1985 LR 110 V8 County (new), 2009 RRS TDV8
    Now: MY13 D4 TDV6. "E" rear diff. Cambo's magic Engine & Auto Tune. 1968 Austin 1800 Mk1 auto (my 5th)

  4. #4384
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    Quote Originally Posted by Discodicky View Post
    Was it necessary to re-programme the new module to the car?
    Or simply a straight swap over?
    No reprogramming needed after changing the module.

    For mine, I put a screw in the module that prevents the interlock from engaging. Maybe once a year I forget to put my foot on the brake when moving the gear selector from park and the selector goes automatically into neutral, pretty easy to live with and saves $1000. It's surprising how my right foot is trained to hit the brake when selecting D!

  5. #4385
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    Quote Originally Posted by l00kin4 View Post
    Glad they had the module in stock...

    David
    Would seem to suggest that it's not an uncommon issue.
    ​JayTee

    Nullus Anxietus

    Cancer is gender blind.

    2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
    1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
    1980 SIII Petrol Tray: Doris
    OKApotamus #74
    Nanocom, D2 TD5 only.

  6. #4386
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tins View Post
    Would seem to suggest that it's not an uncommon issue.
    Yes, agree. He said they normally try to have 2 in stock...
    Everything is easy when someone else is doing it
    MY14 SDV6 SE Corris Grey
    Compomotive 18s : D697s : Traxide DBS : LLAMS : ARB compressor : IC-455
    Rhino Platform : GOE compressor, Tx & front bash plates, deluxe sliders

  7. #4387
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
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    Dropped my wheels in to the tyre shop to have some wildpeaks fitted in 265/65/18, been meaning to do this for a while but thought i may as well wear out the old tyres first.

    Swapped to my original set of wheels then topped up the air from my onboard compressor, just finished and was coiling up the hose and about to disconnect from the rear and i heard a pop then air escaping.
    Found a split in the airline which got hot then burst, will be replacing it with a nylon pneumatic hose then has a higher heat resistance and is semi rigid.
    Last edited by loanrangie; 16th December 2022 at 11:45 AM.
    MY08 TDV6 SE D3- permagrin ooh yeah
    2004 Jayco Freedom tin tent
    1998 Triumph Daytona T595
    1974 VW Kombi bus
    1958 Holden FC special sedan

  8. #4388
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
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    Fremantle WA
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    X-Lifter doing its thing levelling up the brick
    Attached Images Attached Images
    D4 MY16 TDV6 - Cambo towing magic, Traxide Batteries, X Lifter, GAP ID Tool, Snorkel, Mitch Hitch, Clearview Mirrors, F&R Dashcams, CB
    RRC MY95 LSE Vogue Softdash "Bessie" with MY99 TD5 and 4HP24 transplants
    SADLY SOLD MY04 D2a TD5 auto and MY10 D4 2.7 both with lots of goodies

  9. #4389
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    Yes, no programming, just swap and go. A pretty easy job.

    I did consider making a similar mod to disable the locking function but had a slight, probably unfounded, nag in my mind that if the module is faulty it may exhibit other problems at some point. The image in my mind when thinking of any disabling issue is sitting on the beach with the tide coming in... I can do without any unnecessary angst, so replaced it.

    Quote Originally Posted by Lusby View Post
    No reprogramming needed after changing the module.

    For mine, I put a screw in the module that prevents the interlock from engaging. Maybe once a year I forget to put my foot on the brake when moving the gear selector from park and the selector goes automatically into neutral, pretty easy to live with and saves $1000. It's surprising how my right foot is trained to hit the brake when selecting D!
    Everything is easy when someone else is doing it
    MY14 SDV6 SE Corris Grey
    Compomotive 18s : D697s : Traxide DBS : LLAMS : ARB compressor : IC-455
    Rhino Platform : GOE compressor, Tx & front bash plates, deluxe sliders

  10. #4390
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    Nov 2018
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    Hobart, Tasmania
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tins View Post
    Would seem to suggest that it's not an uncommon issue.
    After reading on this Forum that it is a 'moderately' common problem I decided to change mine out pre-failure last year at approx 160,000 klms. I couldn't find anyone to confirm if it needed the Dealer to re-programme the car or whether it was a simple change over.
    I ended up letting the local Dealer supply & fit and it cost about $1100.00

    I wanted to avoid an unplanned failure way out in the woop woop with my caravan on tow.....

    I still have the old unit which was performing fine, but "made" in 2013 and hopefully the new unit has been upgraded......
    Before: Ser 2a LWB, Ser 3 S/W, 1979 RR 2 door, 1981 LR Stage 1 V8 (new), 1985 LR 110 V8 County (new), 2009 RRS TDV8
    Now: MY13 D4 TDV6. "E" rear diff. Cambo's magic Engine & Auto Tune. 1968 Austin 1800 Mk1 auto (my 5th)

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