Judo...I was going to ask you how yours leaves the engine, and if there's any room for a 3inch pipe past it? Who made your exhaust and how much was it?
I spoke to klr over the phone a while back and he told me he didn't recommend using the feed to the alternator, he reckoned that it was one of the last places oil pressure built up in the engine. Leaving the turbo to run dry. I'd prefer somewhere next to the oil filter that's where the best pressure is. Any one have a picture of exactly where I can tap into?
2011 D4 SDV6, Rhino rack, UHF radio, Airflow snorkel, Tuff Ant's 265/65/18 Kumho KL61, 3 Way Lift Rods, Traxide dual battery, Korr LED light bar, APT gear: Rock sliders - Air Comp Guard - Air tank guard - Engine/sump guard - Front guard - Tranny guard
Judo...I was going to ask you how yours leaves the engine, and if there's any room for a 3inch pipe past it? Who made your exhaust and how much was it?
2011 D4 SDV6, Rhino rack, UHF radio, Airflow snorkel, Tuff Ant's 265/65/18 Kumho KL61, 3 Way Lift Rods, Traxide dual battery, Korr LED light bar, APT gear: Rock sliders - Air Comp Guard - Air tank guard - Engine/sump guard - Front guard - Tranny guard
2011 D4 SDV6, Rhino rack, UHF radio, Airflow snorkel, Tuff Ant's 265/65/18 Kumho KL61, 3 Way Lift Rods, Traxide dual battery, Korr LED light bar, APT gear: Rock sliders - Air Comp Guard - Air tank guard - Engine/sump guard - Front guard - Tranny guard
If you're looking for another oil pressure source, there is a gallery under the oil cooler. From memory there is a blanked hole of around 1/8NPT size. I've got an aftermarket oil pressure switch fitted in there on mine as I couldn't be bothered frigging with relays for the Isuzu one.
Steve
1985 County - Isuzu 4bd1 with HX30W turbo, LT95, 255/85-16 KM2's
1988 120 with rust and potential
1999 300tdi 130 single cab - "stock as bro"
2003 D2a Td5 - the boss's daily drive
Looks pretty neat, I think I'll give Mr muffler man a call when the time comes....
In the mean time I've got to some how move the radiator back about an 1.5" so I can get the cooler in front.
2011 D4 SDV6, Rhino rack, UHF radio, Airflow snorkel, Tuff Ant's 265/65/18 Kumho KL61, 3 Way Lift Rods, Traxide dual battery, Korr LED light bar, APT gear: Rock sliders - Air Comp Guard - Air tank guard - Engine/sump guard - Front guard - Tranny guard
Question: What goes where in respect to the provent, I saw someone's post with pictures a while back, can't remember where
2011 D4 SDV6, Rhino rack, UHF radio, Airflow snorkel, Tuff Ant's 265/65/18 Kumho KL61, 3 Way Lift Rods, Traxide dual battery, Korr LED light bar, APT gear: Rock sliders - Air Comp Guard - Air tank guard - Engine/sump guard - Front guard - Tranny guard
Your best option is to go to a wrecker and buy a complete tapppet cover assembly from a 4BD1T and also a blanking plate to cover the side breather.
This converts from 2 breathers to 1 which is a much simpler operation. The breather line from the tappet cover is then plumbed into the provent and the outlet from the provent either vents to air or to the intake after the air filter but before the turbo. The drain from the Provent either can go to a sealed catch can or via a one-way valve (should be supplied with Provent) to the same place as your turbo drain.
If you don't want to or can't buy the turbo tappet cover and blanking plate, you can T both breathers together as I did initially:
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/isuzu-land...o-install.html
EDIT: Pics seems to be having problems in that thread, so here they are. Bear in mind this was temporary until I got the turbo tappet cover and blanking plate on.
Modified original breather
T to connect both breathers
And this is covered in mud on the canning with the turbo tappet cover installed.
Provent is in the front left corner of engine bay (bottom right corner of photo). The T in the provent inlet goes to the engine driven air compressor to supply it with "pre-oiled" air.
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