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Thread: Perentie turbo project

  1. #21
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    I spoke to klr over the phone a while back and he told me he didn't recommend using the feed to the alternator, he reckoned that it was one of the last places oil pressure built up in the engine. Leaving the turbo to run dry. I'd prefer somewhere next to the oil filter that's where the best pressure is. Any one have a picture of exactly where I can tap into?
    2011 D4 SDV6, Rhino rack, UHF radio, Airflow snorkel, Tuff Ant's 265/65/18 Kumho KL61, 3 Way Lift Rods, Traxide dual battery, Korr LED light bar, APT gear: Rock sliders - Air Comp Guard - Air tank guard - Engine/sump guard - Front guard - Tranny guard

  2. #22
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    Judo...I was going to ask you how yours leaves the engine, and if there's any room for a 3inch pipe past it? Who made your exhaust and how much was it?
    2011 D4 SDV6, Rhino rack, UHF radio, Airflow snorkel, Tuff Ant's 265/65/18 Kumho KL61, 3 Way Lift Rods, Traxide dual battery, Korr LED light bar, APT gear: Rock sliders - Air Comp Guard - Air tank guard - Engine/sump guard - Front guard - Tranny guard

  3. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by walahbro View Post
    I spoke to klr over the phone a while back and he told me he didn't recommend using the feed to the alternator, he reckoned that it was one of the last places oil pressure built up in the engine. Leaving the turbo to run dry. I'd prefer somewhere next to the oil filter that's where the best pressure is. Any one have a picture of exactly where I can tap into?
    I tapped into the alternator feed. 150000 hard km later my 2nd hand turbo is still going fine.

  4. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by steveG View Post
    I'm pretty sure that blanked port you are referring to for oil feed is a pressure relief valve of some form, but I could be wrong.
    Many people have just tee-d off the vacuum pump oil feed for the turbo with no dramas.

    Do you have a winged sump? If not, you can run the dump pipe down behind the engine mount and in front of the starter.

    Steve
    I don't have a winged sump, luckily enough, one less mod I need to do, so I should run my intercooler pipe out toward the guard then forward towards the radiator?
    2011 D4 SDV6, Rhino rack, UHF radio, Airflow snorkel, Tuff Ant's 265/65/18 Kumho KL61, 3 Way Lift Rods, Traxide dual battery, Korr LED light bar, APT gear: Rock sliders - Air Comp Guard - Air tank guard - Engine/sump guard - Front guard - Tranny guard

  5. #25
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    If you're looking for another oil pressure source, there is a gallery under the oil cooler. From memory there is a blanked hole of around 1/8NPT size. I've got an aftermarket oil pressure switch fitted in there on mine as I couldn't be bothered frigging with relays for the Isuzu one.

    Steve
    1985 County - Isuzu 4bd1 with HX30W turbo, LT95, 255/85-16 KM2's
    1988 120 with rust and potential
    1999 300tdi 130 single cab - "stock as bro"
    2003 D2a Td5 - the boss's daily drive

  6. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by walahbro View Post
    Other foreseeable issues are which way to orientate the turbo to get the turbo outlet and intercooler piping past the exhaust pipe that will be coming out of the turbo. Please excuse the dodgy sketches
    Rotate the compressor housing and put the intercooler hose up top.

    I'd expect Isuzu blocks to be BSP rather than NPT. Slightly different threadform and 1TPI different in 1/8" size.

  7. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by walahbro View Post
    Judo...I was going to ask you how yours leaves the engine, and if there's any room for a 3inch pipe past it? Who made your exhaust and how much was it?
    Not sure if you've seen my pics...

    Fully custom to the rear. 3" mild steel, flex joint, open flow muffler. "Muffler Man" in Prahran. About $1200.


    - Justin

    '95 Disco 300TDI - sold
    '86 County 110 Isuzu
    2006 Range Rover Vogue td6

  8. #28
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    Looks pretty neat, I think I'll give Mr muffler man a call when the time comes....

    In the mean time I've got to some how move the radiator back about an 1.5" so I can get the cooler in front.
    2011 D4 SDV6, Rhino rack, UHF radio, Airflow snorkel, Tuff Ant's 265/65/18 Kumho KL61, 3 Way Lift Rods, Traxide dual battery, Korr LED light bar, APT gear: Rock sliders - Air Comp Guard - Air tank guard - Engine/sump guard - Front guard - Tranny guard

  9. #29
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    Question: What goes where in respect to the provent, I saw someone's post with pictures a while back, can't remember where
    2011 D4 SDV6, Rhino rack, UHF radio, Airflow snorkel, Tuff Ant's 265/65/18 Kumho KL61, 3 Way Lift Rods, Traxide dual battery, Korr LED light bar, APT gear: Rock sliders - Air Comp Guard - Air tank guard - Engine/sump guard - Front guard - Tranny guard

  10. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by walahbro View Post
    Question: What goes where in respect to the provent, I saw someone's post with pictures a while back, can't remember where
    Your best option is to go to a wrecker and buy a complete tapppet cover assembly from a 4BD1T and also a blanking plate to cover the side breather.

    This converts from 2 breathers to 1 which is a much simpler operation. The breather line from the tappet cover is then plumbed into the provent and the outlet from the provent either vents to air or to the intake after the air filter but before the turbo. The drain from the Provent either can go to a sealed catch can or via a one-way valve (should be supplied with Provent) to the same place as your turbo drain.

    If you don't want to or can't buy the turbo tappet cover and blanking plate, you can T both breathers together as I did initially:
    http://www.aulro.com/afvb/isuzu-land...o-install.html

    EDIT: Pics seems to be having problems in that thread, so here they are. Bear in mind this was temporary until I got the turbo tappet cover and blanking plate on.
    Modified original breather


    T to connect both breathers


    And this is covered in mud on the canning with the turbo tappet cover installed.

    Provent is in the front left corner of engine bay (bottom right corner of photo). The T in the provent inlet goes to the engine driven air compressor to supply it with "pre-oiled" air.

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